HowTo: Disable ECM Controlled Alternator

Forum for Infiniti M37, M56 M35h Hybrid and Q70 owners.
Malbec 56 Beast
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I was told by the Infiniti master tech that they did this for gas mileage and they would not perform the mod even if I signed a contract relieving them from liability. The car performs several checks when it's turned off and sitting for a period of time which also loads the charging system

Anyone who buys a car from $70-90K isn't worried about the gas mileage.

When I had the 2010 G37xS I had my same commute and it did start to have charging issue.

If you have an M do this hack and you'll love the car more.
In the summer months I had so so many strange issues with the hearing and cooling system that were crazy.

Good luck
Andy


Yoda's Master
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EdBwoy wrote:
Fri Apr 17, 2020 11:31 am
It seems like on this forum, this dead battery issue is more of a V8 issue; unless someone provides other evidence.

Do any of you ever encounter the click-no-start issue? The car still starts with a strong crank, but it takes a few button pushes for it to actually catch.
it only happened to me this past new years. Thought it was the battery, but was the starter.

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Ilya
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I might have had the click-no-start issue like once or twice in the 5 years I've had my '11. Definitely not common and definitely has happened LONG before I did the 'mod'.

EdBwoy
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ibc wrote:
Fri Apr 17, 2020 2:18 pm
Yup, sometimes I get the click-no-start too. But after few (1-3) presses, the starter eventually gets power and it always starts up strongly. Dunno why this happens. Is it related to the alternator ECM disable mod?
I am not saying that the smart alternator disable mod is the cause of the click-no-start. The issues might be related, but I am trying to find out how. I am trying to see if something in the starter circuit causes the click-no-start issue. And whether this circuit problem is what is discharging batteries.

For example:
My M56x with 160K miles had no starting issues, no battery issues. The smart alternator was not disabled.
My M56S with 80K miles started having the click-no-start issue last year, but hasn't had any battery issues in over 2 years. The smart alternator has not been disabled either. The click-no-start only happens when I'm doing a "warm" start (not all the time though) and never happens when the car has been sitting for long periods of time.

To test it out, I even made sure I drove each of the 56s for under 7 miles each trip over winter and let them sit for long periods but they still kept trucking.

Look, I'm not trying to tempt fate or mock the M56 gods, but it's hard to troubleshoot a problem you've never had, ya know?

zirillo
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Car: 2013 Infiniti M37X

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2013 INFINITI M37X- Battery lasts only 2 years due to undercharging caused by IPDM. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts at rest. The IPDM keeps it at 11.9 volts keeping it undercharged, which leads to plate sulfuration and battery replacement. I suggest cutting the control wire and installing a switch so it can easily be reconnected in the future. This problem occurs if the vehicle is mostly used for short runs.

zirillo
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Malbec 56 Beast wrote:
Sat Apr 20, 2019 11:17 pm
Hey guys and gals.

So I'm real sick and tired of my car eating batteries at two a year now. I'm sure it is taxing the crap out of my alternator and I don't want that expense to come up.

My question to you all is so any of you utilize a trickle charger for your vehicle on a daily basis.

Our alternators don't start to charge until we hit 8mi and that's exactly what my drive is to my commuter van to work. Singer is coming and I need to replace it again.

Let me know your thoughts on this subject.

My car needs the software update that is supposed to help with this but a member told me it didn't help their situation.

The battery was replaced about six months ago.

Thanks
Andy

My vehicle is a 2013 M56xS
Andy, It sounds like something in your car is discharging the battery when the car is turned off. Check u tube for test methods "CAR BATTERY DISCHARGING" or find a way to measure the discharge current when the car is off everything off including closed doors etc. I've read that the normal current should be around .03 amperes or 30 ma. I hope this helps.

zirillo
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madmanpauly wrote:
Mon May 06, 2019 6:12 am
It worked for me. It's been a few weeks now and I am able to let my wife use my car to run errands on the weekends. Previously, I was worried it would leave her somewhere. I've been "stranded" a few times now. Just make sure it is the correct wire - the video is for a different car than the 2011 M56S. The M56S is a brown wire - #22.
Please add the 2013 m37x also uses a brown wire #22. Thank you

DoN_BLaZe34
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Trying to do this now...got everything apart...any tips on getting the pin out??

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Ilya
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DoN_BLaZe34 wrote:
Sun Dec 06, 2020 9:50 am
Trying to do this now...got everything apart...any tips on getting the pin out??
Patience and calm head lol...honestly, it was a PITA for me too. Took me a while. Sorry I don't have anything better for ya man.

cday
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Bad News I tried this and followed the instructions. I thought it worked perfect. the car started and i even tested it to see if it worked. I removed the positive battery connector while running and the car was still on, I thought great. I hit the start button to turn the car off and it would not turn off. I had to remove the negative battery connector and then hit start to turn the car off. Any thoughts??

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VStar650CL
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The WD for an '05 Armada doesn't show any smart charging. Dunno what you cut, but I presume it was a mistake.

cday
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sorry for the confusion, i have a 2012 m56 base, as well, and that's the car I was talking about.
Thanks.

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VStar650CL
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Can't imagine anything in that circuit that could cause a no-shutdown. Just to make sure you got the right wire, here's the connector diagram at the IPDM:
12 M56 Smart Alt Delete.png

cday
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Thanks so much i'll check again and take picks.

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VStar650CL
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The diagrams do show 2 brown wires on the adjacent connector E7, but they're both in the section with larger conductors at the bottom of the connector pic. The alternator control should be the only brown in either section of small gauge conductors.

cday
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here are the pics, oh and messing around with the ECM now I can cut off the car from the start button now. Go figure. I still don't trust it yet.
Attachments
IMG_0022.jpg
IMG_0023.jpg
IMG_0021.jpg
IMG_0019.jpg
IMG_0020.jpg
IMG_0022 (1).jpg

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VStar650CL
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Yep, that should be the right one. Maybe you just didn't have something fully seated and latched.

cday
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2012 Infiniti m56

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Man I tried to remove it again but it was getting dark and I was getting frustrated and didn't want to break anything, I'll try again tomorrow and see if the same thing happens again. I was excited because I just got the sprint booster and the HPS hoses with Hi-flow drop-ins I need to open her up.

Yoda's Master
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cday wrote:
Sun Mar 07, 2021 2:12 pm
Bad News I tried this and followed the instructions. I thought it worked perfect. the car started and i even tested it to see if it worked. I removed the positive battery connector while running and the car was still on, I thought great. I hit the start button to turn the car off and it would not turn off. I had to remove the negative battery connector and then hit start to turn the car off. Any thoughts??
Hope you didn't fry anything. This car is very finicky about electrical connections while the battery is hooked up. My infotainment system is still buggy. Also i read somewhere that you're not supposed to pull the positive while the car is running on these newer cars since you could fry something.

Btw, did you cut the wire or take it out of the connector? Also did you wrap it up to prevent a short?

cday
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Yes the first time I did just pull the wire and not cut it. and I also wrapped it to prevent a short as well. I connected everything back to the original setup and its working the way it suppose to so far. I think I'll still have the issue as this isn't my daily driver..

madmanpauly
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EdBwoy wrote:
Thu Apr 23, 2020 10:26 pm
ibc wrote:
Fri Apr 17, 2020 2:18 pm
Yup, sometimes I get the click-no-start too. But after few (1-3) presses, the starter eventually gets power and it always starts up strongly. Dunno why this happens. Is it related to the alternator ECM disable mod?
I am not saying that the smart alternator disable mod is the cause of the click-no-start. The issues might be related, but I am trying to find out how. I am trying to see if something in the starter circuit causes the click-no-start issue. And whether this circuit problem is what is discharging batteries.
Hey Ed, have you had any luck with the click-no-start diagnosis? I'm having this problem more and more with a fresh battery and the alternator mod completed. I have a 2011 M56 S with 95K miles.

EdBwoy
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madmanpauly wrote:
Thu Jul 15, 2021 6:23 am
...

Hey Ed, have you had any luck with the click-no-start diagnosis? I'm having this problem more and more with a fresh battery and the alternator mod completed. I have a 2011 M56 S with 95K miles.
Yes, and unfortunately it is a starter issue. The solution is to replace it with the updated part number 2330M-1CA0ARW

Brief discussion on this - https://youtu.be/5EHpc2q0cXo

madmanpauly
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Thanks Ed, and thanks for the video! Lots of good stuff on your site.

madmanpauly
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EdBwoy wrote:
Thu Jul 15, 2021 10:41 am
madmanpauly wrote:
Thu Jul 15, 2021 6:23 am
...

Hey Ed, have you had any luck with the click-no-start diagnosis? I'm having this problem more and more with a fresh battery and the alternator mod completed. I have a 2011 M56 S with 95K miles.
Yes, and unfortunately it is a starter issue. The solution is to replace it with the updated part number 2330M-1CA0ARW

Brief discussion on this - https://youtu.be/5EHpc2q0cXo
That worked - thank you!

BV93013
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Can I just cut and cap the wire instead of removing it from the harness?

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VStar650CL
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BV93013 wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 2:08 pm
Can I just cut and cap the wire instead of removing it from the harness?
Yes. I usually just shrink the cut ends to insulate them and then tape over the bundle. Unpinning is neater in case you ever want to restore the connection, but most folks will never want to do that.

BV93013
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VStar650CL wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 2:45 pm
BV93013 wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 2:08 pm
Can I just cut and cap the wire instead of removing it from the harness?
Yes. I usually just shrink the cut ends to insulate them and then tape over the bundle. Unpinning is neater in case you ever want to restore the connection, but most folks will never want to do that.
Thx for the response. I need to tackle both my M & G.

denbigh97
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I have a 2012 M37x. My battery died today due to the alternator not charging the battery from short distance driving. I removed the brown wire in location 22, replaced the keyfob battery, and replaced with a new OEM Infiniti 700 CCA battery. The car starts/drives fine and alternator is charging at all times now. However, I'm getting an error message "Key System Warning" and a solid yellow triangle with the exclamation light. I disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes and the error message is still car. The car still starts fine though. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

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VStar650CL
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The only thing under the hood that usually causes that "key system error" stuff is the switch in the hood latch. There are lots of other things inside the car, the shifter detente switch, I-key antennas, etc. The hood switch gets monitored by the IPDM, so it's possible either the hood didn't close or the wiring got disturbed.

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VStar650CL
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Just checked the FSM, the hood switch wire is Orange on pin 24 at the IPDM, just two pins up from the Brown alternator wire on 22.


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