it only happened to me this past new years. Thought it was the battery, but was the starter.EdBwoy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 17, 2020 11:31 amIt seems like on this forum, this dead battery issue is more of a V8 issue; unless someone provides other evidence.
Do any of you ever encounter the click-no-start issue? The car still starts with a strong crank, but it takes a few button pushes for it to actually catch.
I am not saying that the smart alternator disable mod is the cause of the click-no-start. The issues might be related, but I am trying to find out how. I am trying to see if something in the starter circuit causes the click-no-start issue. And whether this circuit problem is what is discharging batteries.
Andy, It sounds like something in your car is discharging the battery when the car is turned off. Check u tube for test methods "CAR BATTERY DISCHARGING" or find a way to measure the discharge current when the car is off everything off including closed doors etc. I've read that the normal current should be around .03 amperes or 30 ma. I hope this helps.Malbec 56 Beast wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2019 11:17 pmHey guys and gals.
So I'm real sick and tired of my car eating batteries at two a year now. I'm sure it is taxing the crap out of my alternator and I don't want that expense to come up.
My question to you all is so any of you utilize a trickle charger for your vehicle on a daily basis.
Our alternators don't start to charge until we hit 8mi and that's exactly what my drive is to my commuter van to work. Singer is coming and I need to replace it again.
Let me know your thoughts on this subject.
My car needs the software update that is supposed to help with this but a member told me it didn't help their situation.
The battery was replaced about six months ago.
My vehicle is a 2013 M56xS
Please add the 2013 m37x also uses a brown wire #22. Thank youmadmanpauly wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2019 6:12 amIt worked for me. It's been a few weeks now and I am able to let my wife use my car to run errands on the weekends. Previously, I was worried it would leave her somewhere. I've been "stranded" a few times now. Just make sure it is the correct wire - the video is for a different car than the 2011 M56S. The M56S is a brown wire - #22.
Hope you didn't fry anything. This car is very finicky about electrical connections while the battery is hooked up. My infotainment system is still buggy. Also i read somewhere that you're not supposed to pull the positive while the car is running on these newer cars since you could fry something.cday wrote: ↑Sun Mar 07, 2021 2:12 pmBad News I tried this and followed the instructions. I thought it worked perfect. the car started and i even tested it to see if it worked. I removed the positive battery connector while running and the car was still on, I thought great. I hit the start button to turn the car off and it would not turn off. I had to remove the negative battery connector and then hit start to turn the car off. Any thoughts??
Hey Ed, have you had any luck with the click-no-start diagnosis? I'm having this problem more and more with a fresh battery and the alternator mod completed. I have a 2011 M56 S with 95K miles.EdBwoy wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 10:26 pmI am not saying that the smart alternator disable mod is the cause of the click-no-start. The issues might be related, but I am trying to find out how. I am trying to see if something in the starter circuit causes the click-no-start issue. And whether this circuit problem is what is discharging batteries.
Yes, and unfortunately it is a starter issue. The solution is to replace it with the updated part number 2330M-1CA0ARW
That worked - thank you!EdBwoy wrote: ↑Thu Jul 15, 2021 10:41 amYes, and unfortunately it is a starter issue. The solution is to replace it with the updated part number 2330M-1CA0ARW
Brief discussion on this - https://youtu.be/5EHpc2q0cXo