I think, but don't quote me on that, it's the Y51 period. So anything 2011 or newer. Unless Infiniti was smart enough to remove this stupid design (honestly, I still can't wrap my head around the purpose of not charging the battery for x miles) after a year or two.
Just wondering...looking at your pics, how did you remove the IPDM cover with the battery in place? I was studying the pic and was going to give this a try. Figured I'd ask first.
It was an absolute PITA lol.armybrat wrote: ↑Mon Jan 13, 2020 3:27 pmJust wondering...looking at your pics, how did you remove the IPDM cover with the battery in place? I was studying the pic and was going to give this a try. Figured I'd ask first.
I have to say though, I'm like Ed in that I've never really had an issue with the delayed charging - my commutes are 25 miles a pop so no worries there.
madmanpauly wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:22 amMake sure that you "cap off" the wires once you cut them. E-tape or a twist cap would work fine. I have to say that removing the wire (as opposed to cutting it) is incredibly simple and doesn't take much time at all. Once you have everything apart, you will see how easy it is. Your choice, just seems sloppy - no offense.
Thank you both for your insights. I went ahead and took the harness and connectors apart to get at the pin and removed it like in the YouTube video. If you have the time, space, and more importantly tools it wasn’t too difficult. I would recommend removing the battery to easily remove the IPDM unit’s cover.
What's funny is that my 2009 370z has this ipdm defect also, but no issues. Maybe nissan changed the way it works from 2010+Malbec 56 Beast wrote: ↑Tue Jan 14, 2020 11:31 amMy 2010 G37xS seemed to have this issue. I don't think it's just the M. Started to have battery issues until my daughter for the car and drove it a lot more than I.
I'm not 100% sure of this but it seemed to.
Andy
In the Infiniti M, this feature has been present since the 2006 model year; at least that's when it was called out as an ECM-controlled feature. Otherwise, voltage regulation has been a feature of alternators for a very long time.
I installed a volt meter before doing the mod and it would read 14.4V at startup and then drop and stay below 12V, even with a new alternator. After the mod, I think the lowest I've seen it drop to is 13.5V. It mostly stays around 14V post mod and less than 12V pre mod.EdBwoy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:55 amIn the Infiniti M, this feature has been present since the 2006 model year; at least that's when it was called out as an ECM-controlled feature. Otherwise, voltage regulation has been a feature of alternators for a very long time.
Maybe it's due to my driving & operating habits, but never have I had these issues. I've tried to consistently drive the M56s for short distances & letting them sit, but encountered no issues thus far.
I'm glad the "fix" is working for those attempting it, but I'll stop my experiments. At this point I see no sense in trying to break or fix what isn't broken on my car.
Any other models here with issues, or only the V8s so far?
***
I still haven't seen any documentation showing that the alternator totally prevents charging for the first 8 miles, since all the ECM does is prevent over- and undercharging the battery in response to the battery condition (current & temperature). If the ECM sees no reason to regulate the charging of the battery, then the alternator acts like a standard one with a voltage regulator <- assuming the car does exactly what the technical documentation says it should do.
Completely cutting off charging to such a heavily electronic laden system doesn't make sense to me.
I have a few theories, one of which is that cutting this wire helps borderline/unhealthy batteries not die as fast as the system would let them die (for safety reasons). It buys them a little more time, in exchange for safety...and sacrifices some fuel economy of course.
Nice.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:18 am...
I installed a volt meter before doing the mod and it would read 14.4V at startup and then drop and stay below 12V, even with a new alternator. After the mod, I think the lowest I've seen it drop to is 13.5V. It mostly stays around 14V post mod and less than 12V pre mod.
But yea, if yours ain't broke, don't break it.
The charging system FSM (CHG) has details about how the variable voltage control system works, plus troubleshooting flowchart and tips. I didn't see anything in the document that suggests the IC voltage regulator supplying voltage after a given amount of mileage or drive time.EdBwoy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:55 am***
I still haven't seen any documentation showing that the alternator totally prevents charging for the first 8 miles, since all the ECM does is prevent over- and undercharging the battery in response to the battery condition (current & temperature). If the ECM sees no reason to regulate the charging of the battery, then the alternator acts like a standard one with a voltage regulator <- assuming the car does exactly what the technical documentation says it should do.
Completely cutting off charging to such a heavily electronic laden system doesn't make sense to me.
I have a few theories, one of which is that cutting this wire helps borderline/unhealthy batteries not die as fast as the system would let them die (for safety reasons). It buys them a little more time, in exchange for safety...and sacrifices some fuel economy of course.
I don't and I was affected. My 2009 Nissan has stuff connected directly to the negative terminal and is not affected, nor does the regulator even work.armybrat wrote: ↑Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:46 amI found a pretty good article that explains this:
http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/ht ... ntrol.html
Folks who have aftermarket accessories grounded directly to the negative terminal may also be affected by this.
Seems like you're drawing power from somewhere even when the car is turned off. I have to wonder if the Gromm unit is somehow responsible...does your unit somehow stay powered on (even if the car is off) to receive OTA updates, etc?Ilya wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:22 pmSo, I just got back from a 2 week business trip and when I got to my car in airport parking, it was dead as a door nail. It was somewhat cold here (20's and 30's) and I drove 10 miles from home to the airport...but it sucked to come back to a dead car. I thought this issue would help but I guess not.
When I got home, again 10 miles, the alarm randomly went off twice so I ended up leaving the car unlocked.
Could you share some detail about your friend's vehicle - year, make, model, mileage especially?Malbec 56 Beast wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 5:51 pmA friend of mine thought I was full of shizz about this issue till his commute reduced around the 8 mile mark.
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