Hello all and Vstar!

Glad I'm not reviving an old post but merely adding to the long list of cars with this affliction!!

2007 G35x195k.
2 year old Interstate MTX battery, tests 90% on my batt tester.
Original Mitubishi alternator!
3 days ago, wife goes to leave for work, car starts normal, idles normal, she puts in reverse and rolls down the driveway to the street, she accelerates out of the driveway and the car starts surging, she states all the dash lights came on and she turns round and barely made it back up the driveway, she jumps in our sons 2008 ex35x and takes off for work.
I go out to the car, starts normal, idles normal, battery and brake light or on. I drive it to in front of my garage, no surging and no christmas tree on dash, seems normal except battery and brake lights on.
Grab my Autel 808bts and start scanning. What i was after was live data and Actions to see Alternator Duty cycle, which at the time was at 0%. I think that's odd as normally they don't just cut out. So into the house and jump into the FSM to get some diagrams and logic of when the battery light comes on. Back to the car to follow the flow chart for terminal S and L and if both are good then time for an alternator. Which I figured anyway due to the age of the stock one (WELL DONE MITSUBISHI!!) Both terminals good so off to Oreilly to get an Ultima Alt. I've had good luck in the past with these.
Get the old one out and new one in and get it back together and all is good and my scanner says alternator duty cycle is at 40% with high beams, defroster and blower on high, while maintaining 13.6 volts. On to the test drive and a fresh ice coffee and go get my core charge back...except 1 mile from my house the brake and battery light come back on! Back to my house in front of the garage and figure WTF and what did I miss!!
Checked and cleaned all obvious grounds in engine room, installed new battery terminal with a new lug connector on negative cable at battery. Checked voltage drop from batt cable to alternator and still brake and battery light persist. SO I obviously found this post and located pin 76 Violet in IPDM and boom, I got 14.2-14.7 at idle and with accessory loads with the alternator duty at 30.5%, I'm a happy guy and was going to write a thank you post...Until I went for the test drive/fresh ice coffee/core charge return trip and it happens again, same thing as before. Brake and Battery light, 0% Duty cycle and voltage seemingly stays around 11.92ish volts and the lights seem to be flickering when I run the rpms up, so I disco the current sensor thinking that the ecm still has control and no change...SOOOOO, I'm tempted to put a new battery in it to see if I have the red herring as mentioned...????
If you read all of this I owe you a frosty one If you have a any suggestions I owes ya two frosty ones! THANKS!

Not clear from your post, but have you tried clipping or unpinning the PWM wire? Maybe it's some weird pin-fit problem, but killing the PWM removes all that crap from the equation and makes the alternator self-regulating. That limits your potential problems to an issue with the field wiring or a bum replacement alternator (and as Newton taught us, two bodies are easy, three are hard).

Hey Vstar,

Thanks for the reply! By the pwm wire, are you referring to the control wire from the ecm? As that was the #76 in the lpdm that I found in the fsm. Or is there another I can unpin for the pwm, as I have an external relay box best to the ipdm that is labeled pwm, I could pull that and see what happens..
Thanks again!

Pin 76 is it. Just disconnect or clip it and see if the alternator's disposition improves. You should get a constant 14.1~14.5V on internal regulation. If not, it isn't a control issue, the alternator has a problem.

Okay, so alternator it is. I did find a denso reman on Amazon. Would you put that in your car?

My cars are both Alties that take 15 minutes to swap the alternator, so I use anything that fits in the hole and is returnable.

If it's Denso branded -- i.e., rebuilt by Denso -- I'd say yes, no worries. If it's a Denso core rebuilt by Whatwuzzat Inc, that's a different story. Gotta be careful about misleading advertising with third-party vendors on outlets like Amazon and eBay.

I hear that, with this 07 g35, the fans and oil filter get dropped to make room to squeeze it out the bottom. Other than that its not bad, just extra steps to make room.
Thanks again for the advice and I'll update as I go when I get the damn lights out.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 05, 2023 6:07 pm

Let me look it up tomorrow when I can access ASIST at the dealership. Many of the new models have "talking" alternators connected to the ECM by a LIN line instead of to the IPDM with a PWM interface, so don't get your hopes up. It isn't possible to modify that setup without lighting the MIL.

I haven’t driven my 2017 pathfinder in 2 weeks cause the VVCS has left me stranded 2x. I found a video on YouTube for a 2015 qx60 and a 2015 pathfinder but my 2017 platinum didn’t have the green wire in the pin location as the video showed. Can you point me in the right direction? I can’t find the VVCS wire to cut on my pathfinder. HELP! btw I had a shop test the alternator and battery and they’re good.

The '17's don't have smart charging. From '16 up, I don't think any of the R52's do. If it isn't charging at all, check the fuse marked "ALT" in the oblong Fuse & Relay Box forward of the IPDM. That's the field supply, and if it's blown the alternator will only output a couple of amps. If the fuse is good and has power, check for power at the Yellow wire on the alternator. If the fuse has power but Yellow doesn't, you have a break in the wire somewhere.

Hey Vstar and anyone else following

I started back at 0, because that's where I was with the new alternator. I did leave the control wire disconnected at the epdm. Per FSM, I started at visual, basic inspection, then moved to the flow chart and checking wires and cables, just to be sure my original diagnosis of bad alternator was correct. Well, I came to same conclusion. So I pulled the rebuilt Ultima alternator from Oreillys out $224+50core and went and got another one and installed it and all is good! I left the control wire unpinned under the cover taped up so it could easily be placed back in the harness. For anyone wondering, it is plug E7 wire 76 it violet in color.

thorze wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 23, 2023 3:36 pm

Hey Vstar and anyone else following

I started back at 0, because that's where I was with the new alternator. I did leave the control wire disconnected at the epdm. Per FSM, I started at visual, basic inspection, then moved to the flow chart and checking wires and cables, just to be sure my original diagnosis of bad alternator was correct. Well, I came to same conclusion. So I pulled the rebuilt Ultima alternator from Oreillys out $224+50core and went and got another one and installed it and all is good! I left the control wire unpinned under the cover taped up so it could easily be placed back in the harness. For anyone wondering, it is plug E7 wire 76 it violet in color.

Glad you got it seemingly resolved!

madmanpauly wrote: ↑

Fri May 03, 2019 10:43 am

There's a fix for the alternator issue if you are interested. Since the problem is the ECM is controlling the alternator and it doesn't kick on until after 8 miles (as you mentioned), you can disconnect the wire to the alternator and it will always be on. I worked with Jay and was able to disconnect the wire on my 2011 M56 Sport. I did it 2 weeks ago and it is amazing the difference! It feels like it runs better but that may be a placebo effect on me because it is such a relief to confidently start the car each time. I work exactly 7.2 miles from my home so it was always an issue by Wednesday and I charged it over the weekend. Jay's contact source is below, he can help you out but I also put a link to a video that he made about it. I hope this helps!

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9C5-OkxrJU&t=4s

Jay's website:
http://www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800

***Will this work on a 2014 Nissan Juke S?*** I'm at a loss on what to do about a month ago I noticed the break and the battery light start to flicker so I took it to my mechanic and they told me it needed a new alternator. So we replaced the alternator with a Denso by Nissan and It drove perfectly fine for a week to the day and I start seeing the break in the battery light flicker again. So I contact the mechanic and he says there's no way it's the alternator it's a denso rebuilt alternator ( cuz apparently Nissan no longer makes brand new alternators and they're all refurbished?) we guarantee our work I think it's some kind of wiring issue you should take it to the Nissan dealership. So I take it to the Nissan dealership and they charge me $190 to look at it for 5 minutes set it on the machine and tell me it needs a new alternator... and because my alternator is under warranty at the mechanic shop I have to take it back to them! So feeling like a ping pong ball at this point and running out of funds, I take it back to my mechanic and they're like again,
we promise you it's not the alternator but just to prove a point we will go ahead and replace it for the second time. Again with another Denso. So they replace it for the second time and this time the battery and brake light come on 2 Days Later. I contact the mechanic yet again and they're like I don't know what is going on with your car we think it might be just a communication issue error just keep driving the car and ignore the lights we promise you won't break down on the side of the road because that is my biggest fear since it's happened to me twice! So I do exactly that and I ignore the light for about a week and a half and I'm in the middle of driving and both lights come on and stay on solid! And as I'm drivin, my car starts to jerk really bad and the lights start to dim. I could barely get it over 20 miles an hour and I can tell that the alternator is probably not functioning like it should and it's running mostly on the battery at this point. I'm terrified I'm going to drain the battery and end up stranded but made it home safe and parked it. Contacted a separate friend who is also a mechanic and he referred me to this forum and said that I need to take the ECM and disable it. Reading through all of your comments, it seems like it's done a lot of good for what seems to be the same kind of issue? Please help

***Will this work on a 2014 Nissan Juke S?*** I'm at a loss on what to do about a month ago I noticed the break and the battery light start to flicker so I took it to my mechanic and they told me it needed a new alternator. So we replaced the alternator with a Denso by Nissan and It drove perfectly fine for a week to the day and I start seeing the break in the battery light flicker again. So I contact the mechanic and he says there's no way it's the alternator it's a denso rebuilt alternator (cuz apparently Nissan no longer makes brand new alternators and they're all refurbished?) we guarantee our work I think it's some kind of wiring issue you should take it to the Nissan dealership. So I take it to the Nissan dealership and they charge me $190 to look at it for 5 minutes set it on the machine and tell me it needs a new alternator... and because my alternator is under warranty at the mechanic shop I have to take it back to them! So feeling like a ping pong ball at this point and running out of funds, I take it back to my mechanic and they're like again,we promise you it's not the alternator but just to prove a point we will go ahead and replace it for the second time. Again with another Denso. So they replace it for the second time and this time the battery and brake light come on 2 Days Later. I contact the mechanic yet again and they're like I don't know what is going on with your car we think it might be just a communication issue error just keep driving the car and ignore the lights we promise you won't break down on the side of the road because that is my biggest fear since it's happened to me twice! So I do exactly that and I ignore the light for about a week and a half and I'm in the middle of driving and both lights come on and stay on solid! And as I'm drivin, my car starts to jerk really bad and the lights start to dim. I could barely get it over 20 miles an hour and I can tell that the alternator is probably not functioning like it should and it's running mostly on the battery at this point. I'm terrified I'm going to drain the battery and end up stranded but made it home safe and parked it. Contacted a separate friend who is also a mechanic and he referred me to this forum and said that I need to take the ECM and disable it. Reading through all of your comments, it seems like it's done a lot of good for what seems to be the same kind of issue? Please help

Ps I am 14 miles from work which is where I drive it most and it is my everyday commuter if that's of any help...

Yes, the Jukes have the same setup. It's a green wire on IPDM pin 33:

Thank you so much!! Despite my mechanic being adamant that he wasn't cutting any wires, by the end of our conversation and filling him in on all the information that I have found, I was able to convince him to cut the wire only with the agreement that I understand that this may or may not fix the problem and that if it does not fix the problem, he is at a loss and if it damages my vehicle further and I end up needing a new wiring harness, I am responsible for it moving forward... Yikes! I appreciate you answering this and providing the diagram. I get to pick my car up in the morning please let this work!!!
I will post an update ~Kimberly

Hi, bringing this topic up again. Can anyone help to verify if this is also applicable to a QX70 (mine is a 2016). I am having issue with battery not charging enough due to short drives and repeated getting in and turning off and turning on the car. And I dont drive the car often, really only the weekend so the car sits from Mon-Fri without being driven. The battery has been an issue. If this mod is applicable for my year, I would really want to get it done. Thank you in advance for anyone that can help. Not savvy but really been dealing this for months. So if someone is able to confirm, and share where I can find diagrams and I will show to mechanic to try and do. Thanks.

Yes, it applies, but the location on the IPDM and wire colors are different. Since the attachments aren't working, here's a link to the PDF wiring diagram:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qYAkhH ... sp=sharing

The tech wants to clip the Pink or Violet (depending which engine you have) wire coming out of pin 76 on the IPDM.

Now that the attachments are working again, here are the diagrams. The IPDM is located on the passenger side beside the battery.

put 50mf compactor on battery ones used for subwoolers set it to 14,5 volts,
when ault charges it to that setting 14.5 battery change at 13,5 for agm cap will slowing discharge showing one thing something drawing power off the battery,
but this will save your battery, as i found out the ault wont turn on unless u drive it 8 miles and only certen conditions,
there 3 wires on neg battery post discontect all them will give u 3 motor codes, no check motor light
ault will not turn off, these two things and agm battery
but there is lawyer building law sute agest nissian for this
this car should not have these probems https://chimicles.com/ tell him i sent u join james from cincinnati ohio join law sute lets force nissain fix this or replace the cars ,

CINCINNATIMAN1 wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 03, 2023 7:22 pm

put 50mf compactor on battery ones used for subwoolers set it to 14,5 volts,
when ault charges it to that setting 14.5 battery change at 13,5 for agm cap will slowing discharge showing one thing something drawing power off the battery,
but this will save your battery, as i found out the ault wont turn on unless u drive it 8 miles and only certen conditions,
there 3 wires on neg battery post discontect all them will give u 3 motor codes, no check motor light
ault will not turn off, these two things and agm battery
but there is lawyer building law sute agest nissian for this
this car should not have these probems https://chimicles.com/ tell him i sent u join james from cincinnati ohio join law sute lets force nissain fix this or replace the cars ,

I gather you like your capacitor, but it's treating the symptom and not the disease. If you have a PWM-controlled alternator, find the PWM wire and cut it. No muss, no fuss, no more problem.

replance the alternator with run that will charge at idel its a 3ed party works
cheaper fix we all aware of what a compacator for subwoffer is, 50 mf in line with battery
once charge it confuses the ecu there more of a load on battery line, Alternator keep running untill bouth charge
in fack in my test solve most power probems, and i know what people think these made dump power all once true but like any
one made it works how the system uses it,

here probem u do one these this dam car dose self checks wile off, these self check invold running a vacumpump or maybe they got compressor to do it,
it puts a valucm on gass system checks for leaks if voltage is below 12.2 u get check motor light,
now dearship can reprogram ecu they change a setting in system, dose it work i dont know, mine just change, this can be fix with a 600.00 battery and a 600 Alternator
but these all are 3ed party parts, there is no oem parts will fix this,
now as this uses battery power when car is off, guss what no matter what u do it will not work, as long as self checks gose on wile car is off no way can work


probem is in your idea this will charge at 600 rpm it will not...wont charge till well over 1200 rpm
no fix for this

so if you in trafic jam more 5 hrs batter dies so dose car. i been talking to lawyer about this as there is no way to fix it, they can delay battery falllure and get the battery last 6 months then dies,
so nothing is fix, if this dose go to lawyer we want some kind warrenty that probem is solve not just a banade put on it, the only hope i found is Alternator will charge at 150 amps at 600 rpms running amps is 250 so it solves all probems, but one we must return back to the self checks when car is off,

now i have document from dealer stateing he reporgram ecu they see that this now a power probem not just probem else where in system
and there is not easy fix as this is become much worst in the 2022 2023 and 2024 cars the ault is use less and less and throw new car battery will last 3 years, as it was made do as soon as drops out warrenty it will fail, now only thing i can do is montor the battery see if reprogame work this not going away and there is easy fix

facks i work with power all my life, poor spelling do add, so excuse it
these cars wont charge at idel they wont charge unless driven 8 miles even when driven 1 hr batter is 80% charge,
there is one of two fixs for this
there is high amp ault will charge at 600 rpm this key probem this what u must look for,
and bcm i beleave it called , i have document said change bcm to mode 4, no up date or update allready push on it,

i cant even find what this meens, ok we know it has do with chargeing mode 4 ? any one knows what this meens,
how ever this ault will run at higher current lev should charge battery or there is much cheaper way deal this
them big compactors used for sub wolffer can store power very very fast , enouf power to keep battey charge for week not driveing it
remove it batter gose down in power,

now why dose compator work 1 stores power very fast 2 is store 14.5 volts well above battery need but will keep battery charge,
as car dose self checks wile motor is off this can supply power to it, also and most odd part about this it forces battery to charge at 600 rpm
now how this being done, i even stump at unless the ault needs a charge to make power has to use battery to matain a megnetic feld
i beleave sence store such high voltage it ack can keep this feld going, the computer shuts down power from battery it is how its contored
but this voltage is 13,5 volts, i beleave higher voltage back feeds power to make power, i also notace wile driveing volt mettr in cab is higher,
and for most part stay up ,

now my probem is to get this apove to be installed, as my car under warrenty all work must be done by the service center
now neg gos back to battery , but two key places that should also go back to one as close to ault as u get, and any ground to car frame
i notace keep voltage more stable

note this will cause computer faults that cant be repaired as it voltage makeing it fail,
as battery stays above 13,5 probems gose away , now my delaer shiphad allready admited to bcm and probems with in it,
in my case i going get them replace the ault with high current version and hook up the capactor i beleave bouth will end my probems,

or we all get a lawyer law firm is looking in to this and every time i post this nissin removes it, this huge probem wich nissian wishs to cover up
i ask u message me on twitter cincinnatiman3 i can give u data i got this year,

if any one knows what ment by change bcm to mode 4 meens please tell us, and what are other options in the bcm ?

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 04, 2023 6:10 am

CINCINNATIMAN1 wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 03, 2023 7:22 pm

put 50mf compactor on battery ones used for subwoolers set it to 14,5 volts,
when ault charges it to that setting 14.5 battery change at 13,5 for agm cap will slowing discharge showing one thing something drawing power off the battery,
but this will save your battery, as i found out the ault wont turn on unless u drive it 8 miles and only certen conditions,
there 3 wires on neg battery post discontect all them will give u 3 motor codes, no check motor light
ault will not turn off, these two things and agm battery
but there is lawyer building law sute agest nissian for this
this car should not have these probems https://chimicles.com/ tell him i sent u join james from cincinnati ohio join law sute lets force nissain fix this or replace the cars ,

I gather you like your capacitor, but it's treating the symptom and not the disease. If you have a PWM-controlled alternator, find the PWM wire and cut it. No muss, no fuss, no more problem.

i do agree with u but i can find no dealer ship that can fix it , in short the smart chargeing system needs be turn off but wont fix aul probem
it wont charge at 600 rpms it will not charge at 600 rpm this per nissian unless u turn every thing on , the pwm wire 3 wires on neg termal remove it
ault wont turn off but its under the upper restraint wont charge at ideal the compator makes it charge now it may not be a fix
but i spent close 6000.00 i got draw line some where, they replace purge value fuel pump
and still had same probem i agree not perfix fix untill i get a 3ed part ault will work i just stuck with this as i disable and i got this car as gift from my mom
i just dont have money put in parts dont need be fix

When you cut the PWM wire, the alternator internally regulates. It will always output 14.0~14.8V. If snipping the PWM wire didn't make yours charge at idle speed, your alternator has an issue. If so, you may have a bad overrunning clutch in the alternator pulley. That can cause low output at idle because the alternator simply doesn't spin fast enough.

ack the ault made not charge at 600 rpm google it, there is nissian apove set of events u must do to get it to turn on
and the newer cars omg they far worst , new cars and nissian them who have nissian internet they takeing u gps takeing all u say in car
they waching you , evey part car is being trasmited to nissian then to who in fack there is not pricacy in the new cars of any kind,
there is 3ed part ault ack works at 600 rpm yes u will read 14l,5 volts at idel but amps going to battery is turn off, why so many diffrent wires on + side
note all these wires are undersize any way, these wires should be twice the sixe to run 50mf compactor able store 400 amps u have have size 1 ga wire, and 300 amp breaker or fuse
i going take this step fither as it has out puts as well i run gound wires to all ground points and pick up far more power ,
google what point will ault will charge in these cars will state must be over 1500 rpm or every thing turn on this nissian own specks not mine

I'm afraid you're deluding yourself with misconstrued googles. Most alternators need 1500~2000 RPM for maximum output. That doesn't mean they don't charge or regulate at idle. They simply can't output maximum current at idle. However, even at 50% output (typically 60A), that's more than sufficient to run the blower and both headlight beams in addition to the normal loads and still have something left over to charge the battery.

Hello to all new to site great info does anyone know wire color and position for 2014 frontier sv also for my 2013 fx-37. Thanks

zmeauto wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 18, 2023 9:34 pm

Hello to all new to site great info does anyone know wire color and position for 2014 frontier sv also for my 2013 fx-37. Thanks

Have you tried taking a look at the factory service manuals available on this site?

On your Frontier it's a Yellow wire on IPDM connector E122, pin 37:


On your FX it's a Violet wire on IPDM connector E7, pin 76:

Thanks!!! im going to try both by this weekend!!! This will be my gift (lol) Happy Holidays to ya !!! Also on fx I get a vibration when accelerate feels as if it's coming from under car may e driveshaft?