i don't think that info got to my dealer. they told me everything was normal. i told them i won't pay for them to guess around, only if they give definitive diagnosis and repair. they accepted my terms and i left without paying.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Mon Sep 19, 2022 1:53 pmThe dealer has a perfectly good idea, I assure you. Just not if you call on the phone, because it isn't for public discussion. If you brought your car in for actual diagnosis, you'd get it back fixed with the IPDM "adjusted" or "reconfigured" and no idea what was actually done to it. Most of the Service Advisors don't even know, it's a shop thing that came down to us through Engineering and the DTS's. Since most of the affected cars show up while still under warranty or have aftermarket coverage, the large number of affected owners you're imagining doesn't exist in the real world.
The bulk of the problem is pretty much confined to '17-up Armadas and QX80's (and in older times M's), so I'm not surprised if a dealer was reluctant to do it on a different model. Not to say you can't do it yourself if your particular ride has an issue. We're all aware that the "smartwork" can turn into "dumbwork" under a given set of circumstances and driving conditions. But on older Armadas and QX's the culprit is usually a bad current sensor.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Mon Sep 19, 2022 7:44 pmi don't think that info got to my dealer. they told me everything was normal. i told them i won't pay for them to guess around, only if they give definitive diagnosis and repair. they accepted my terms and i left without paying.
i came home and 5 mins later my car was fixed.
I've had that same exact problem with my 2013 Nissan Quest. The shops test and claim everything is working as it should.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 3:50 pminteresting. i have the same problem and thought it was a faulty alternator. replaced it and same thing, no charge.madmanpauly wrote: ↑Fri May 03, 2019 10:43 amThere's a fix for the alternator issue if you are interested. Since the problem is the ECM is controlling the alternator and it doesn't kick on until after 8 miles (as you mentioned), you can disconnect the wire to the alternator and it will always be on. I worked with Jay and was able to disconnect the wire on my 2011 M56 Sport. I did it 2 weeks ago and it is amazing the difference! It feels like it runs better but that may be a placebo effect on me because it is such a relief to confidently start the car each time. I work exactly 7.2 miles from my home so it was always an issue by Wednesday and I charged it over the weekend. Jay's contact source is below, he can help you out but I also put a link to a video that he made about it. I hope this helps!
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9C5-OkxrJU&t=4s
Jay's website:
http://www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800
I just did it to my car and I'll see if it works tomorrow. I have the battery disconnected for now since that stupid vline2 module screwed up my HU settings.
That is allRcmodelr wrote: ↑Sat Nov 05, 2022 2:24 amI've had that same exact problem with my 2013 Nissan Quest. The shops test and claim everything is working as it should.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 3:50 pm
interesting. i have the same problem and thought it was a faulty alternator. replaced it and same thing, no charge.
I just did it to my car and I'll see if it works tomorrow. I have the battery disconnected for now since that stupid vline2 module screwed up my HU settings.
After finding this thread, I asked the shop that currently has my car about disabling this control of charge and he said that although is DOES work to make it start charging the battery any time the engine is running, it also disables the voltage regulator greatly increasing the likelihood of battery damage due to the vehicle overcharging the battery.
Now I'm wondering. Does the mechanic who doesn't work for the dealership have correct information about the voltage regulator also being disabled, or does the voltage regulator continue to limit the charge to the battery after this wire is removed.
Also, does anybody have an image showing where the connector is located and which wire I'd have to remove to get my 2013 Nissan Quest to charge the battery during my barely 8 mile drive between home and work?
Definitely +1 on the "ask yourself", but it's not entirely fair to blame the tech. In some sense Nissan deliberately mis-educates us about that so we won't f___ with it and sever the wrong wire. Least common denominator and all that. Only a tech like me with a ton of electrical experience will know better, it isn't something you'll learn in Nissan Advanced Electrical class.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Sat Nov 05, 2022 10:37 amAlso, if what the stupid mechanic says it'll kill your battery, then ask yourself why do batteries last years and years on dumb cars without the dumb charging circuit?
Time to find a new mechanic.
I hear ya and it's not meant for everyone, just this one person who lacks common sense to recognize how dumb that sounded.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Sat Nov 05, 2022 11:39 amDefinitely +1 on the "ask yourself", but it's not entirely fair to blame the tech. In some sense Nissan deliberately mis-educates us about that so we won't f___ with it and sever the wrong wire. Least common denominator and all that. Only a tech like me with a ton of electrical experience will know better, it isn't something you'll learn in Nissan Advanced Electrical class.Yoda's Master wrote: ↑Sat Nov 05, 2022 10:37 amAlso, if what the stupid mechanic says it'll kill your battery, then ask yourself why do batteries last years and years on dumb cars without the dumb charging circuit?
Time to find a new mechanic.
Good point about red herring syndrome. A smart charger that's gone stupid can deep cycle a battery repeatedly, and just one instance that goes below around 8V can kill as much as 20% of the CCA. So if the battery has gone dead multiple times, replace it out of hand.
Appreciate the effort either way. Look forward to your findingsVStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 6:07 pmLet me look it up tomorrow when I can access ASIST at the dealership. Many of the new models have "talking" alternators connected to the ECM by a LIN line instead of to the IPDM with a PWM interface, so don't get your hopes up. It isn't possible to modify that setup without lighting the MIL.
Appreciate the input. It appears the 2020 and up Frontier models use lin bus to communicate between ecm and alternator. It will trip an error to remove this connection.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 6:30 amOkay, bad news first, the alternators on D41's are the LIN type. You can't disconnect the comm line because you'll get Merry Christmas on the dashboard. The good news is, it looks like you can disable the Battery Current Sensor without lighting the MIL. The FSM shows none of the P155x codes causing a MIL or any failsafe behavior, and I imagine the ECM will just regulate according to system voltage if it can't read the current. You can't just disconnect the sensor because that also disables the Battery Temp Sensor, which you still want to work. So try snipping or unpinning the Pink wire at the sensor, that's the battery current signal. You'll get (I think) a P1552 on your scanner, but you should also get fixed alternator regulation. Post back if you try it out.
Here you go. The IPDM is located under a cover, in an enclosure directly behind the battery. The beveled corner will be toward the front of the truck at the bottom of the enclosure. E17 will be a black connector, E13 (the one you want) will be white. There's only one all-Red wire on E13, the other red wire is Red/White. Simply snip or unpin the all-Red wire, and tape off the end(s).madmanpauly wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 7:41 amHey Vstar650CL, can you also lookup which wire to remove for a 2018 infiniti QX80?
It isn't something we've come up against with D41's yet, although it's been very common on '17-up Armadas. I really don't see any reason not to snip the Pink sensor wire, which should simply force the ECM to regulate using voltage like a conventional regulator. So it should have the same effect as snipping the wire on a PWM setup, with the exception that you'll get a P155x code. You'll know why that's there, so I'd say just ignore it.GreyFox wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 8:29 amWhat do the techs do with customer vehicles that do not operate more than 8 miles per day and get a full charge? There has to be a "work around" for those specific instances? Is this something that can only be programmed/adjusted in Consult only then??
Again, appreciate the help
VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 8:43 amIt isn't something we've come up against with D41's yet, although it's been very common on '17-up Armadas. I really don't see any reason not to snip the Pink sensor wire, which should simply force the ECM to regulate using voltage like a conventional regulator. So it should have the same effect as snipping the wire on a PWM setup, with the exception that you'll get a P155x code. You'll know why that's there, so I'd say just ignore it.GreyFox wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2023 8:29 amWhat do the techs do with customer vehicles that do not operate more than 8 miles per day and get a full charge? There has to be a "work around" for those specific instances? Is this something that can only be programmed/adjusted in Consult only then??
Again, appreciate the help