HowTo: Change Your Stabilizer Link(s)

[Ilya]

Figured I'd put this out there for anyone who was interested in changing the stabilizer links on their own but weren't feeling very comfortable. I have a 2007 M35x but this should be the same for all M's. This should give you the general idea though.

*Disclaimer* - I am not liable for anything you do to your car. This is just a basic walkthrough.

I took the pics with my HTC EVO 4G LTE from Sprint. End of shameless plug lol.

Also, I did this like a week ago so some of my details (such as sizes of wrenchs) may be off. If you have a 14 or 17mm (the only two sizes I can remember using), you should be all set.

Task: Change The Front and Rear Stabilizer Link
Time: Took me about 10-15 minutes per side. It's pretty easy as long as you don't have any issues with rust, etc.
Tools/Supplies Needed:

• 14MM or 17MM socket/wrenches (1 socket and 1 wrench or 2 wrenches - see explanation above - details are hazy since I did this a week before doing the HowTo)
• Front Stabilizer Links - I got mine from Advance Auto Parts and it was part numbers 101-6418 and 101-6417. Both are made by Beck Arnley.
• Rear Stabilizer Links - part numbers 101-5687 and 101-5273 from Beck Arnley.
• Optional - Anti-Seize

Process:

1) Put your car securely up on jack stands. In my case, I have a lift, so it's much easier.

2) Take off the tire. You will see this:



3) Now, look under the car near the wheel area and you should see the stabilizer link. It looks like this:



4) Take your wrench and put it on the back side of the bolt to hold that nut steady. Take your other wrench or socket and undo the main nut. Pop the link out and go to the other one.

5) Installation is reverse of removal. I highly suggest putting anti-seize on the new stabilizer links thread.

The rear stabilizer link looks like this (sorry for the bad picture, accidentally deleted my better one).

[16volt]

Torque spec on these is 90nm fyi.

[Ilya]

Torque spec on these is 90nm fyi.

Thanks for sharing, might help someone. I literally never check torque on anything and have never had a problem...was raised by a jack-of-all-trades Ukrainian father and we just do everything by feel lol. Wheels, engine covers, oil pans, etc...doesn't matter, tight and then a quarter turn more, every time.

[16volt]

I spend too much time with Porsches/Audis/BMWs, nothing goes back on without a torque spec.

[ArmedAviator]

I just got my Beck Arnley front end links. Upon removal of the factory links I noticed that these new Beck Arnley links lack the large washer-like flat surface on the bolt and nuts provided. This means less surface area to dissipate load to the lower arms when given a shearing force. Not too thrilled about that. I'll be using the factory washers on the lower control arm points and the factory nuts but there will be no washer on the stabilizer bar bolt-side.

Additionally, the rubber boot on these new ones (unlike pictured above), seems to be sub-par and when at full travel, looks like they'll rip easily.

I'm not too impressed with these newer Beck Arnley end links at all. FWIW, I did some Google searching, and they part build quality must of changed sometime between 2014 and now.

[Ilya]

I've used Beck Arnley, Moog, etc...most are similar.

[16volt]

I used Moog, same issue with the missing integrated washer. I plan on putting washers in when I do the brakes this weekend.

[seventhgear]

Trying to figure out if anyone has tried installing G35/350z adjustable links on our M's. I want to go ahead and try it ,but don't really have the cash to be a guinea pig.
The front links are similar in length and part #'s are close but not the same... wishing we had an affordable aftermarket sway bar aswell.

[Ilya]

Yeah can't help ya there unfortunately. Haven't heard of anyone trying it either.

[airmanhoward]

What is the reason to change the links?

[Ilya]

What is the reason to change the links?

Loose suspension or in my case, 'popping' or 'clunking' when suspension load changes...such as dips in the road or pulling into driveways. The car this article was written on (07 M35x) was lowered on BC Coilovers and my links would go bad every 5-6k for some odd reason (no other guys with BC's were experiencing this).

It's a general part of the suspension that should be changed eventually...just like a tie ride, ball joint, etc. If I recall, I installed my BC's at like 90kmi or something. Speaking of 90k, I just hit that 10 minutes ago on my 2011 M56x.

[dragmyr1]

Does anyone know the stabilizer bar/sway bar diameter? and is there a bushing kit like the ones energy suspension makes that has all the bushings for the m35? or at least interchangeable bc they make it for the G and Z.

[yeller]

Ilya thanks for the detailed write-up.

My 06 M35 (145k) has similar popping/clunking noises coming from the front/right wheel area. Before buying new stabilizer bars, is there a way to easily confirm the bar is bad? For example, will the bar be loose if I wiggle it back/and forth or is there another manual inspection I can perform?