HowTo: Change The Oil (M56 - VK56VD)

[Ilya]

Figured I'd put this out there for anyone who was interested in knowing how to change their oil. I have a 2011 M56x, so at the least, this would be the same for any of the M56 variants and years.

*Disclaimer* - I am not liable for anything you do to your car. This is just a basic walkthrough.

Also, you do not have to do it exactly how I do. Different people tackle things differently. This just how I do it.


Task: Change the oil on a M56 (VK56VD)
Time:15-20 minutes
Tools/Supplies Needed:

• Flat head screw driver or oil filter wrench (if you don't have a wrench, you can stab the filter with the screw driver and twist - IT WILL GET MESSY )
• Oil filter (I used the Mobile 1 M1-110)
• 10mm wrench or socket for the shield bolts
• 14mm wrench or socket for the oil drain bolt
• Some sort of catch can or basin to catch the old oil (MAKE SURE YOU DISPOSE OF IT PROPERLY - DON'T KILL OUR ENVIRONMENT)
• 6.5 qts of 5W-30 oil (or whatever you need in your geographic location)
• Jack stands/ramps

Process:

1) Jack the car up securely so you can get under it. Get proper equipment to do this, your life depends on it.

2) With the car lifted by whichever means you have at your disposal (I realize not everyone has a lift in their garage), remove the bottom shield by unbolting all the bolts marked in these locations.




3) You will have now exposed the underside of the engine. Take the 14mm wrench and undo the drain bolt enough so you can take it out with your fingers. Get your catch can ready and then take the bolt out with your fingers. If your engine is still hot, be careful. I usually give the car time to warm up and then do it just as it's begun to cool. This way the oil is nice and thin from being warm.




4) After the oil has drained from the pan, re-install the drain bolt. Now, take off the filter with your filter wrench and/or screw driver stab. HIYA! Catch the oil in your sweet catch can shiznit.




5) Once you have all the old oil, you now need to put the new filter on. Before you do that, clean the mating surface with a clean paper towel or something. Then, take your finger and dip it into the FRESH OIL and then run your finger around the rim of the new filter where the rubber seal is. This will help the filter seal nicely against the car.

6) Tighten everything up and double check, the put the shield back on, lower the car, and fill the car with 6.5 qts of oil.

7) Boomshakalaka!

[biggie]

We needan alum undertray with access panels. Hate taking those are mastic undertrays off.

[Ilya]

Working on one. I took measurements and such yesterday for TBW

[wideopn11]

Nice, I just made the switch to synthetic last week. Went to the dealer though

[Ilya]

Nice, I just made the switch to synthetic last week. Went to the dealer though

I switched to Synthetic and put in a bottle of Auto-Rx to do some cleanup.

[szh]

Nice, I just made the switch to synthetic last week. Went to the dealer though

I switched to Synthetic and put in a bottle of Auto-Rx to do some cleanup.

Ilya, you might consider using the same Mobil 1 Synthetic in a 0W-40 formulation.

Same price and it supposedly (according to an oil expert chemist, Fred Palmer, who used to frequent NICO) is a better oil than the 5W-30.

After the first 10k miles are done, my cars get a regular diet of this and like it.

Have not done it to my wife's 2011 Acura yet though - she wants me to stick with what the dealer uses. That is a Honda-branded synthetic (perhaps semi-synthetic?) in a 5W-20 weight or some such thing ... shudder!

Z

[szh]

2) With the car lifted by whichever means you have at your disposal (I realize not everyone has a lift in their garage),

Drool!

Z

[Ilya]

I switched to Synthetic and put in a bottle of Auto-Rx to do some cleanup.

Ilya, you might consider using the same Mobil 1 Synthetic in a 0W-40 formulation.

Same price and it supposedly (according to an oil expert chemist, Fred Palmer, who used to frequent NICO) is a better oil than the 5W-30.

After the first 10k miles are done, my cars get a regular diet of this and like it.

Have not done it to my wife's 2011 Acura yet though - she wants me to stick with what the dealer uses. That is a Honda-branded synthetic (perhaps semi-synthetic?) in a 5W-20 weight or some such thing ... shudder!

Z

Will 0W-40 work in upstate NY where temperatures range from -20 (with windchill) to 90 (usually doesn't get over that in the summer)?

Car is driven harder than most, and spends most of its time at 45mph or higher. Not many short trips comparatively speaking.

Also, my OCI is 5k regardless of oil. I just feel better lol. Might be willing to extend this to 10kmi if the oil is truly superior.

[szh]

Will 0W-40 work in upstate NY where temperatures range from -20 (with windchill) to 90 (usually doesn't get over that in the summer)?

Better than 5W-30 actually, since the 0W-40 gives you the ability to use it in summer and winter without having to switch to a thin oil for winter.

Also, my OCI is 5k regardless of oil. I just feel better lol. Might be willing to extend this to 10kmi if the oil is truly superior.

I would not lengthen it ... The differences may not be that spectacular!

My current OCI is [perhaps] overkill at 3750 miles.

Z

[Ilya]

I use 5W-30 year round. But I may have to give 0W-40 a try now that you mention it.

[Ilya]

Well, I made the switch to 0W-40. Will update this thread if anything crazy happens, lol. Have never used it before on any of my cars.

[biggie]

Now someone get on the alum undertray.

[Ilya]

I have it...TBW should be getting close to producing them.

[1080Rider]

I'll give the 0-40 another vote. I used it in my volvo v70R and liked it. I later changed to castrol 0-30 but only because that's a european formula made specifically for turbos. The nice thing about the 0-40 is you have the lower temp protection because it will still flow, hence the 0 and the more burly protection in the 40 for people who don't baby their motor...

Another idea I have is some sort of quick disconnects for the undertray. I used dzus clips on my ducati and it made the faring come off super quick. Airplanes have a 1/4 turn screw system as well for the cowling, it makes it easy to pull 30 screws out in minutes... I'll have to change the oil soon and see what we're dealing w/ under there.

Great write-up! Thanks!

[DFW2011M56S]

I'll give the 0-40 another vote. I used it in my volvo v70R and liked it. I later changed to castrol 0-30 but only because that's a european formula made specifically for turbos. The nice thing about the 0-40 is you have the lower temp protection because it will still flow, hence the 0 and the more burly protection in the 40 for people who don't baby their motor...

Another idea I have is some sort of quick disconnects for the undertray. I used dzus clips on my ducati and it made the faring come off super quick. Airplanes have a 1/4 turn screw system as well for the cowling, it makes it easy to pull 30 screws out in minutes... I'll have to change the oil soon and see what we're dealing w/ under there.

Great write-up! Thanks!

I run 0w40 Mobil One in mine as well. Ran it in both Titans, my Hemi Ram and my Chevy 350. Every last one calls for 5w30 but the 0w40 offers better flow when cold and more viscosity when hot.

[Ilya]

Yeah, I'm at basically 2x the mileage that I bought the car with and under my ownership that's all it's seen (Mobil 1 0W-40) and no issues.

[BlackCat81]

0w40 is totally fine. Actually, when I was at an Infiniti engine training course, the instructor said that's all they should get.

[Ilya]

0w40 is totally fine. Actually, when I was at an Infiniti engine training course, the instructor said that's all they should get.

Man I'd love to sit in on some courses like that or walk a Q70 production line. I need a career change...my IT job is so mundane but hey, it pays.