That looks like a nice tool indeed. Nice.

I realize this is an old post...

The instructions were pretty good until I reached the passenger side plugs. Something must be missing. After releasing the harness and sensor brackets and removing the hoses, I'm not able to remove the coil packs. Their isn't enough slack in the harness to remove them. Has anyone else replaced the 3 passenger side spark plugs?

Bonkers wrote:I realize this is an old post...

The instructions were pretty good until I reached the passenger side plugs. Something must be missing. After releasing the harness and sensor brackets and removing the hoses, I'm not able to remove the coil packs. Their isn't enough slack in the harness to remove them. Has anyone else replaced the 3 passenger side spark plugs?

What you mean there isn't slack in the harness? You unclipped them from the coilpacks themselves so there should be a tiny bit of slack...there is one bolt you have to remove to give some additional wiggle room.

So, I just did this to my VK45DE (M45, '07.) It is basically the same. It took me about 2 hours. I think Infiniti Engineers decided to put something in the way of every coil pack, on purpose, though. I needed a 3/8 swivel, a 6-inch extension, a 3-inch extension, a 3/8 ratchet, and a 3/8 torque wrench. The only thing I removed is the intake snorkel and the plastic beauty panels. I did one spark plug at a time so I wouldn't mix anything up but the coil plug packs wouldn't reach to a different location anyway. I recommend using a torque wrench so you don't under- or over-tighten. My car has 205k on it and I have no idea how many of those miles were on the old plugs but the electrodes were almost gone. This skinny part that was on my new plugs was definitely not present in the old ones. I went with the stock NGK plugs. They were $14.99 each. Wow!

Sstupid wrote:So, I just did this to my VK45DE (M45, '07.) It is basically the same. It took me about 2 hours. I think Infiniti Engineers decided to put something in the way of every coil pack, on purpose, though. I needed a 3/8 swivel, a 6-inch extension, a 3-inch extension, a 3/8 ratchet, and a 3/8 torque wrench. The only thing I removed is the intake snorkel and the plastic beauty panels. I did one spark plug at a time so I wouldn't mix anything up but the coil plug packs wouldn't reach to a different location anyway. I recommend using a torque wrench so you don't under- or over-tighten. My car has 205k on it and I have no idea how many of those miles were on the old plugs but the electrodes were almost gone. This skinny part that was on my new plugs was definitely not present in the old ones. I went with the stock NGK plugs. They were $14.99 each. Wow!

Nice!

Yeah I need to do my V8 too. Like $120 in plugs...lol.

Yo everybody!

Newbie here 06 M35 owner. Not good at cars, but thanks to this site I have so far semi-successfully changed my belts and brakes! ha.

First of all, thanks for making this thread. I just had a SES blinking light and took it to the nissan dealer. They said it was code P0301 and I needed to replace the coilpack on cylinder 1. Can I just use the same instructions above to replace my coilpack? I just ordered a Hitachi one on Amazon (read good reviews from this site).

Other articles I've read (non-specific to my car) said it's not necessary to change all the coils at once or change the plug with the coil, so this should be pretty easy to do by myself if I follow the above? Any thing else I should consider? Also, could anyone confirm for me cylnder 1 in the above photos?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Welcome to the forum!

Yes, you can change just one coilpack. As a test, you could move the 'bad' coilpack to another spot and see if the misfire follows it to that cylinder. If it doesn't, then the coilpack isn't the issue.

As for the cylinder, I'm not sure which one is which but if you use the FAQ thread and look for the FSM for this car, that should be able to tell you.

Ilya wrote:Welcome to the forum!

Yes, you can change just one coilpack. As a test, you could move the 'bad' coilpack to another spot and see if the misfire follows it to that cylinder. If it doesn't, then the coilpack isn't the issue.

As for the cylinder, I'm not sure which one is which but if you use the FAQ thread and look for the FSM for this car, that should be able to tell you.

Hey man, Thanks again.

I just did it. Based on the owners manual, cylinder 1 was the most front cylendar on the passenger side.

I swapped it out and the car sounds better, but the SES light is still on (not flashing like before, but just on).

Was this supposed to go off immediately or maybe after a few drives?

Thanks

The car will recycle the systems eventually. Or you can disconnect the battery for a while if you don't have an OBDII scanner to clear it.

A solid light is usually emissions related. If it doesn't go away with a battery reset or over a few drive cycles, go get scanned again and see what the code is.

Hey man, I don't mean to keep buggin you like this, but I was driving around all day after I replaced it. But then it came back on later in the day. There is actually somethn I should've said before when I was doing it is that when I pulled out the old ignition coilpack it was socked in what looked to be old oil. In the video I saw of someone replacing them on a Nissan, I didn't see this. I did a quick search and saw that there might be another issue causing the misfire such as oil in the spark plug well which could be caused by a leaky gasket. I don't actually own a diagnostic code reader and the 2 auto parts stores around me don't offer the service anymore. I'm debating whether to get the reader myself and attempt to fix it or if this is going to be more of a headache and just take it into the shop.

Have you heard of this issue before and is it something I could research and try to do myself in a relatively short period of time? (like 2 days tops).

Thanks agin for the help. I'll hit you with a little paypal donation for the support if you send through your email to show the appreciation.

Do you have a smartphone? Get the Torque app for a few bucks and then get one of the supported BT OBD-II readers. Mine is plugged into my car 24/7. You can probably get the BT dongle and app for $30 total.

As for the oil, yeah, it could be a gasket issue. Oil on the spark plug will foul it which means it won't fire which is the cause of the issues.

And no need for the paypal donation...we're here to help each other out.

Hi. just a quick update. I just ordered this on amazon and downloaded the app. I actually took my car to get inspected and it passed. He said if there was still a problem, I would've failed the emissions. However, I can still feel the car misfire from time to time. Today it happened when pressing the gas at about 60mph and then the SES light starts to flash again and then goes off. I should be able to look at it again as soon as the BT dongle comes in. I'm trying to become an Uber/Lyft driver so want to make sure my car is working properly first.

I'll continue to to post updates in here in case it helps anyone in the future.

Thanks again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C ... UTF8&psc=1

Thank you Ilya! Great job. A few thoughts for others:

- This approach works for a 2008 M35
- The plug socket that Ilya recommends is almost essential. Buy it.
- The "target" that you are trying to get to is a black rectangular cube with rounded edges marked with an "F".
- Removing all the screws that Ilya recommends allows you to move those sheathed wire bundles out of the way. The screws hold metal brackets used for tacking down the wire bundles. If you are having trouble moving a wire bundle, look for the nearest bracket and remove its anchoring screw.
- Since you will be moving a connecting hose for the PCV valve, and the valve is relatively inexpensive, you might as well change the valve during this job. (See https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... PDKIKX0DER)
- I also suggest buying a package of replacement retainer clips before starting (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1). You will probably break or lose a couple while you're doing the job, and you may find several others missing because they have been lost/broken during previous repairs.

Thanks a ton, Ilya!

bea50 wrote:Thank you Ilya! Great job. A few thoughts for others:

- This approach works for a 2008 M35
- The plug socket that Ilya recommends is almost essential. Buy it.
- The "target" that you are trying to get to is a black rectangular cube with rounded edges marked with an "F".
- Removing all the screws that Ilya recommends allows you to move those sheathed wire bundles out of the way. The screws hold metal brackets used for tacking down the wire bundles. If you are having trouble moving a wire bundle, look for the nearest bracket and remove its anchoring screw.
- Since you will be moving a connecting hose for the PCV valve, and the valve is relatively inexpensive, you might as well change the valve during this job. (See https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... PDKIKX0DER)
- I also suggest buying a package of replacement retainer clips before starting (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1). You will probably break or lose a couple while you're doing the job, and you may find several others missing because they have been lost/broken during previous repairs.

Thanks a ton, Ilya!

No problem Bea! Glad it helped. I need to do this on my M56x soon...

Simple tip - get a white grease pencil and write the cylinder number on the top of each coil pack.

Urgent question: I just unplug 3 driver's side coil packs and forgot to label them, do the coil pack pretty much follow the order front to back (Or is there any cross line?) one of the coil line has factory label of number '99'. can anyone point to me which cylinder this should go into?
I am a newbie got too excited after seeing this post but now I am scared of the misfire. Please Help!

Thanks
Chris

I guess I don't quite understand why coilpacks would be different. You should be able to gauge which harness goes to which pack based on the length. You wouldn't be able to plug in the front most harness to the rear most coilpack, for example. My experience with coilpacks dates back to the 4th Gen Nissan Maxima and all 6 were the same.

My question was about the coil pack closest to the driver and the middle one right next to it. I almost followed the sequence of the wire branches coming out from the main wire but the bend shape didn't quite make sense. So I bite the bullet and followed the existing wire shape, plugged the middle wire into the end coil pack nearest to the driver. I am still not sure I am doing it correctly because IT IS possible to switch these two wires (between middle and back coil packs).
I started the car and it sounded ok and didn't experience excessive vibration, is it a sign of correct setting or misfire might come later?

thanks for the help.

Your car would have misfired immediately if you plugged in the wrong harness to the wrong pack and you would have likely gotten a CEL with a few minutes as well. If your car is idling fine (maintaining RPMs, etc.) and you have no CEL, you're likely good to go.

Good to know, by the way for anyone interested in doing this job in the future, the ignition wire that labeled ‘99’ is going to the last coil pack closest to the driver. My car drives great and quite now. Thanks again for your reply!

bigbulllee wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:30 pm

Good to know, by the way for anyone interested in doing this job in the future, the ignition wire that labeled ‘99’ is going to the last coil pack closest to the driver. My car drives great and quite now. Thanks again for your reply!

Ilya, is it possible for you to get the images back in the OP?

TDot wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2023 12:05 am

Ilya, is it possible for you to get the images back in the OP?

Hey there, I should be able too. Give me a day or two to find them and re-upload them. Not sure what happened to em.

TDot wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2023 12:05 am

Ilya, is it possible for you to get the images back in the OP?

Pictures have been re-uploaded to IMGUR.

Thanks

OMG, I never thought i would ever drive something with duct tape on it...then again i never thought id own a car for 10+ years, I don't know why I can't let this car go. The couplers on the intake crumbled and I had to wrap it up in duct tape
https://imgur.com/a/XNrLMkZ

I would recommend one change. When doing the passenger side disconnect the pcv valve hose from the other end. It's more of a chance breaking the pcv nipple disconnecting it like the OP.
https://imgur.com/a/ANc6h7K

Time to get a 'Z-Tube' to replace that intake coupler .

Did you gain any relatively significant HP from the ztube alone? Not trying to replace a bunch of things in the engine. If I can't see at least 10-15 hp without a mpg drop it will be a waste of time for me.

TDot wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 10, 2023 11:03 pm

Did you gain any relatively significant HP from the ztube alone? Not trying to replace a bunch of things in the engine. If I can't see at least 10-15 hp without a mpg drop it will be a waste of time for me.

I only did it cause my couplers also ripped and it was actually cheaper than the OEM intake piece. I was UpRev tuned but I don't think it added much. If anything it added a tiny bit of sound.