What you mean there isn't slack in the harness? You unclipped them from the coilpacks themselves so there should be a tiny bit of slack...there is one bolt you have to remove to give some additional wiggle room.Bonkers wrote:I realize this is an old post...
The instructions were pretty good until I reached the passenger side plugs. Something must be missing. After releasing the harness and sensor brackets and removing the hoses, I'm not able to remove the coil packs. Their isn't enough slack in the harness to remove them. Has anyone else replaced the 3 passenger side spark plugs?
Nice!Sstupid wrote:So, I just did this to my VK45DE (M45, '07.) It is basically the same. It took me about 2 hours. I think Infiniti Engineers decided to put something in the way of every coil pack, on purpose, though. I needed a 3/8 swivel, a 6-inch extension, a 3-inch extension, a 3/8 ratchet, and a 3/8 torque wrench. The only thing I removed is the intake snorkel and the plastic beauty panels. I did one spark plug at a time so I wouldn't mix anything up but the coil plug packs wouldn't reach to a different location anyway. I recommend using a torque wrench so you don't under- or over-tighten. My car has 205k on it and I have no idea how many of those miles were on the old plugs but the electrodes were almost gone. This skinny part that was on my new plugs was definitely not present in the old ones. I went with the stock NGK plugs. They were $14.99 each. Wow!
Hey man, Thanks again.Ilya wrote:Welcome to the forum!
Yes, you can change just one coilpack. As a test, you could move the 'bad' coilpack to another spot and see if the misfire follows it to that cylinder. If it doesn't, then the coilpack isn't the issue.
As for the cylinder, I'm not sure which one is which but if you use the FAQ thread and look for the FSM for this car, that should be able to tell you.
No problem Bea! Glad it helped. I need to do this on my M56x soon...bea50 wrote:Thank you Ilya! Great job. A few thoughts for others:
- This approach works for a 2008 M35
- The plug socket that Ilya recommends is almost essential. Buy it.
- The "target" that you are trying to get to is a black rectangular cube with rounded edges marked with an "F".
- Removing all the screws that Ilya recommends allows you to move those sheathed wire bundles out of the way. The screws hold metal brackets used for tacking down the wire bundles. If you are having trouble moving a wire bundle, look for the nearest bracket and remove its anchoring screw.
- Since you will be moving a connecting hose for the PCV valve, and the valve is relatively inexpensive, you might as well change the valve during this job. (See https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... PDKIKX0DER)
- I also suggest buying a package of replacement retainer clips before starting (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1). You will probably break or lose a couple while you're doing the job, and you may find several others missing because they have been lost/broken during previous repairs.
Thanks a ton, Ilya!
bigbulllee wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:30 pmGood to know, by the way for anyone interested in doing this job in the future, the ignition wire that labeled ‘99’ is going to the last coil pack closest to the driver. My car drives great and quite now. Thanks again for your reply!
I only did it cause my couplers also ripped and it was actually cheaper than the OEM intake piece. I was UpRev tuned but I don't think it added much. If anything it added a tiny bit of sound.