Double E wrote:It's also useful info for the Y34 owners. Applause for this post.
I don't bleed after a pad/rotor change. With no disconnect of the lines or fluid change, this is just a routine maintenance thing, right?
Did I miss the rear brake change pics?
suburbanmx wrote:It is not necessary to bleed brakes unless you remove a brake line/hose...
This general HowTo applies to more than our cars...such as my old Nissan Maxima, etc.
Yes, I do it out of habit. It is not required, but I added it because it can't hurt to do and is probably beneficial to some extent.
And yes, Post #2 is the rear change.
OmahaLancer wrote:Three things I would add after installing the Brakemotive kit last weekend....
1) Use PB Blaster penetrating oil on all the fasteners and let that soak in for appx 30 minutes before trying to break any bolts loose. PB is great at helping get those stuck fasteners moving. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, its meant to displace water....
2) The small rubber plug in the rear rotors covers the parking brake adjuster. If you place the car in neutral and rotate the the rotor to the 12 o'clock position, remove the plug, you will see a cog-wheel on the adjuster, adjusting this all the way down will "bring in" the shoes of the parking brake on the inside of the rear hub. These can tend to stick and prevent the rotor from coming loose. Closing the adjuster will let the rotor move freely.
3) There is a threaded hole on the front rotors. Use this to break stuck rotors loose of the carrier. Screwing in a bolt (12mm?) until it contacts the backer, will release the rotor quickly and easily.
Good suggestions. WD-40 will help a little in a pinch, but yes, use PB Blaster for the real heavy duty stuff. WD-40 is called WD-40 because it has 40+ uses...not just water displacement. You'd be surprised what WD-40 can do. Google it, pretty interesting.
I don't mess with the adjuster lol...and I haven't had to use that threaded hole, but yup, it's there for that reason.