HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:36 pm

Figured I'd put this out there for anyone who was interested in changing their own engine belts but wasn't feeling very comfortable. I have a 2007 M35x so, at the least, this would be the same for the 2006 M35. I haven't seen the 08/09 car so I can't say if this process is any different but it should be since I believe it's the EXACT same motor. This should give you the general idea though.

*Disclaimer* - I am not liable for anything you do to your car. This is just a basic walkthrough.

I took the pics with my HTC EVO 4G from Sprint (love this phone). End of shameless plug lol.

Task: Change the engine belts
Time: About an hour and a half if you work slowly and take caution
Tools/Supplies Needed:
  • 10mm socket + maybe one extension to take off the splash shield and first part of the air intake system
  • 12mm (I believe - may be 14mm) socket to loosen tensioner pulleys
  • Both drive belts - I got the 60k maintenance kit from Sewell Infiniti (link) which had these in the kit. The part numbers for the belts are (according to google since Sewell doesn't list them on the kit information) 11920-AG900 (smaller belt) and 11720-4P10A (larger belt).
  • Car jack and proper support (so you don't get crushed)
Process:

1) Jack the car up in a safe manner so you can get under it to do the work.

2) Remove the front underbody splash shield using the 10mm socket + extension (if need be):

Image

You will be then left with this:

Image

3) Remove the first part of the air intake system to give yourself some room from the top and to allow in more light (helped me - this might be an optional step)

Image

4) Locate the tensioner pulley bolts

Image

Image

Image

5)
mgokool wrote:IlyaKol, great writeup! What you might wanna add though, before you loosen the tensioner bolts that move the pulley's up and down, you we're supposed to loosen the bolt in the center of the tensioner's FIRST. ((seen in your 1st pic under step #4 looking from the top-down!))

I ran into the same problem as you did, not being able to get the belt off, seemed like the tensioner won't move far enough downard to allow enough room...IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO LOOSEN THAT BOLT ON EACH IDLER PULLEY *FIRST* BEFORE loosening the tensioner screws...otherwise you risk rounding up the tensioner bolt, stripping it or even snapping it!....its in the FSM and can easily be overlooked!

Anyone doing this, follow this step along with IlyaKol's original steps and you shouldn't have any problems!...

**loosen bolt on idler pulley -> loosen tensioner -> replace belts -> tighten tensioner -> tighten idler pulley bolt...**

HOPE THIS HELPS!
Loosen the bolts until the pulleys move all the way down and swap belts. To be honest with you, I couldn't get the main belt on no matter what I did and ended up stripping the bolt a little bit (the head part). I had the dealer do that belt for me. I got the smaller belt on fine. Not sure why I wasn't able to get the main one on because as far as I know the dealer used the belt I supplied them with (according to the paperwork).

6) Tighten the belts till they have the same or slightly tighter inflection as before.

7) If you have chirping when the car is running, you have to tighten the belts more. Otherwise, you are done.
Last edited by Ilya on Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:04 am, edited 2 times in total.


User avatar
1M2NV
Posts: 173
Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:58 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x Fully Loaded

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby 1M2NV » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:54 pm

great write up. When are the drive belts suppose to be changed usually? at the 60k mark?

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:57 pm

I did mine at 53k, but 60k would be a good spot and then 120k I guess. After that, unless you plan to keep the car, I wouldn't touch em really.

EniGmA1987
Posts: 2040
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:13 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby EniGmA1987 » Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:51 pm

I wish we had drive chains like the older M35/45's. From what I hear those never need to be replaced.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:57 pm

I've heard of timing chains but I've never heard of drive chains. Interesting. Yeah, I don't think those would need changing.

User avatar
bbs350z
Posts: 507
Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:41 pm
Car: 350z built tt
350z st track whore
m35x daily
evo 8- 30r sold

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby bbs350z » Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:38 pm

never heard of drive chains either. more info plz

EniGmA1987
Posts: 2040
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:13 am
Car: '06 M35 Sport

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby EniGmA1987 » Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:51 pm

Well maybe Im wrong. I heard someone saying they have drive chains instead of belts so maybe whoever told me that was confused as well.

The00Dustin
Posts: 1042
Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:05 am
Car: 2006 M45
Location: Bloomington, IN

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby The00Dustin » Wed Apr 06, 2011 2:53 am

Sounds like they were confused, I mean, some cars have timing belts instead of timing chains. You could technically put on a drive chain if you wanted (with quite a bit of expensive custom work), but it would still hane to be changed just like a motorcycle chain, because it wouldn't be constantly lubricated or protected from the environment. Also, "never have to change the chains" isn't necessarily true for timing chains (while it is true that they aren't a standard maintenance item like timing belts). Even old ones can break, and I have heard of a few newer ones breaking on Phaeton W12 engines. They can also wear, for instance, 2008 Cadillac CTSes have nylon timing chains, and several of them had to be changed under warranty due to premature wear. Cadillac later released an ECU flash or something that properly determines OCI (because people were changing their oil according to the light that was going 15K miles) and claim that will help, but I know of a 2008 Cadillac CTS that had the nylon timing chain replaced under warranty due to premature wear with an owner who changed the oil every 5K. That car also had two coils replaceud under warranty and a third die after the warranty was out, along with many other issues I mentioned in some other post on some other thread some time ago. Regardless, unless Cadillac's ECU flash also changed tolerances for the timing chain's stretching, that thing is practically a really expensive timing belt and that check engine light could be a big deal.

Also, to veer back toward the topic, it should be noted (as was recently discussed in another thread) that the 06-07 M45 have auto-tensioners and there is a bolt on them that should not be loosened or they will have to be replaced (according to the FSM). The procedure for changing the belts on the M45 is therefore totally different.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:07 am

Good info in here. Thanks Dustin. I know Nissan chains in the VQ's are pretty strong, but didn't know they had things such as nylon chains, etc.

Yeah, I think the person was referring to timing chains. Oh well, happens.

User avatar
M-Pilot
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:05 am
Car: M35x

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby M-Pilot » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:16 am

The '07 M35x has a timing chain, correct?

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:39 am

All VQ's do as far as I know. Altima, Maxima, M35, G, Z...I believe they are all chain. There might be a few motor models that Nissan makes that are belt, but I believe as a whole Nissan is pretty much all timing chain.

cji4130
Posts: 130
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:34 pm
Car: 2006 M35x
Location: New York City

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby cji4130 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:52 pm

IlyaKol wrote:The part numbers for the belts are (according to google since Sewell doesn't list them on the kit information) 11920-AG900 (smaller belt) and 11720-4P10A (larger belt).
my belt says 11720-4P102. it does not end with an A. Can anyone confirm this belt is the same?

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:27 am

I think mine did to, but the one I got didn't. It was probably one of those cases where it was superseded.

User avatar
polargice
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:28 pm
Car: 07 M45
Location: Albuquerque, NM

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby polargice » Wed May 18, 2011 6:01 pm

Thanks for the write up. Dealer wanted to change mine today for $260. I think i'll be doing this one myself. Any reason to avoid AutoZone belts? I can get both for $30 there.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Wed May 18, 2011 9:04 pm

Never used em so don't know...can't say. And you're welcome.

User avatar
mgokool
Posts: 143
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:25 pm
Car: 2006 M35x
Location: Brentwood, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby mgokool » Thu May 19, 2011 12:15 am

IlyaKol, great writeup! What you might wanna add though, before you loosen the tensioner bolts that move the pulley's up and down, you we're supposed to loosen the bolt in the center of the tensioner's FIRST. ((seen in your 1st pic under step #4 looking from the top-down!))

I ran into the same problem as you did, not being able to get the belt off, seemed like the tensioner won't move far enough downard to allow enough room...IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO LOOSEN THAT BOLT ON EACH IDLER PULLEY *FIRST* BEFORE loosening the tensioner screws...otherwise you risk rounding up the tensioner bolt, stripping it or even snapping it!....its in the FSM and can easily be overlooked!

Anyone doing this, follow this step along with IlyaKol's original steps and you shouldn't have any problems!...

**loosen bolt on idler pulley -> loosen tensioner -> replace belts -> tighten tensioner -> tighten idler pulley bolt...**

HOPE THIS HELPS!

PJS3
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:28 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti M35 Sport

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby PJS3 » Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:34 am

The00Dustin wrote:Sounds like they were confused, I mean, some cars have timing belts instead of timing chains. You could technically put on a drive chain if you wanted (with quite a bit of expensive custom work), but it would still hane to be changed just like a motorcycle chain, because it wouldn't be constantly lubricated or protected from the environment. Also, "never have to change the chains" isn't necessarily true for timing chains (while it is true that they aren't a standard maintenance item like timing belts). Even old ones can break, and I have heard of a few newer ones breaking on Phaeton W12 engines. They can also wear, for instance, 2008 Cadillac CTSes have nylon timing chains, and several of them had to be changed under warranty due to premature wear. Cadillac later released an ECU flash or something that properly determines OCI (because people were changing their oil according to the light that was going 15K miles) and claim that will help, but I know of a 2008 Cadillac CTS that had the nylon timing chain replaced under warranty due to premature wear with an owner who changed the oil every 5K. That car also had two coils replaceud under warranty and a third die after the warranty was out, along with many other issues I mentioned in some other post on some other thread some time ago. Regardless, unless Cadillac's ECU flash also changed tolerances for the timing chain's stretching, that thing is practically a really expensive timing belt and that check engine light could be a big deal.

Also, to veer back toward the topic, it should be noted (as was recently discussed in another thread) that the 06-07 M45 have auto-tensioners and there is a bolt on them that should not be loosened or they will have to be replaced (according to the FSM). The procedure for changing the belts on the M45 is therefore totally different.
LOL... I find it interesting you mention that... I am an M35 owner now after owning an '07 Cadillac CTS with 38K miles on it for only ONE month. Had the timing chains get ready to go on the car. ....

Covered under warranty or not.... I kid you not. I picked the CTS up from the Cadillac Service Center and drove directly over to the nearest Infiniti dealer.... It was a wrap.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:17 pm

Thanks Mgokool. I edited my instructions. Thanks.

Partysan7
Posts: 359
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 5:28 am
Car: 2008 M35
Location: NJ

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Partysan7 » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:32 pm

IlyaKol wrote:Never used em so don't know...can't say. And you're welcome.
What About GoodYear Gatorback Poly V.. I heard and read they are pretty good and QUIET not like the oem nissan ones... I just ordered mine set of those on ebay yesterday, both for $ 28 shipped... Btw I dont agree with changing these belts at 60 K and then 120 K .. it all depends on the condition of the belt ( dried, cracks, misalligned causing damage to belt etc. ) belts should be checked and changed whenever these symptoms occur .


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWNX%3AIT

thomasm35
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:11 pm
Car: 2007 m35

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby thomasm35 » Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:13 pm

IlyaKol wrote:Thanks Mgokool. I edited my instructions. Thanks.
The other thing I would add to your instructions is that you can change these belts from the top, there is no need to remove the bottom cover - you are creating needless work by raising your car and removing the under cover. I also would recommend using a 12mm ratchet wrench on the adjustment bolts - it makes the job easy.

This procedure is nicely layout out in M35 shop manual.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:55 pm

Yes you can use a ratchet, but trust me, from the bottom...access to the adjustment bolts is MUCH easier.

Smarter not harder is my motto. But to each their own. I'd rather take 10 minutes to take off the splash guard (I have a lift and air tools), than spend an extra 15 minutes battling trying to get the racket onto a bolt I can't see and can only feel, etc.

thomasm35
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:11 pm
Car: 2007 m35

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby thomasm35 » Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:22 pm

IlyaKol wrote:Yes you can use a ratchet, but trust me, from the bottom...access to the adjustment bolts is MUCH easier.

Smarter not harder is my motto. But to each their own. I'd rather take 10 minutes to take off the splash guard (I have a lift and air tools), than spend an extra 15 minutes battling trying to get the racket onto a bolt I can't see and can only feel, etc.
It took me 20 minutes to replace the belts. It is a very easy job. Read the shop manual.

You might want to reassess your smarter not harder motto. As I recall you could not get one of your belts off because you did not loosen the tensioner bolt -------read the shop manual.

User avatar
mgokool
Posts: 143
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:25 pm
Car: 2006 M35x
Location: Brentwood, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby mgokool » Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:15 pm

IlyaKol wrote:Yes you can use a ratchet, but trust me, from the bottom...access to the adjustment bolts is MUCH easier.

Smarter not harder is my motto. But to each their own. I'd rather take 10 minutes to take off the splash guard (I have a lift and air tools), than spend an extra 15 minutes battling trying to get the racket onto a bolt I can't see and can only feel, etc.
Theres no doubt it can be done from above, but I agree with you IlyaKol...definately much easier from the below. I actually changed mine at the time I was doing my oil change...so really wasnt any extra work.

markboss
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:51 pm
Car: Infiniti M35

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby markboss » Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:43 pm

Hey are you from Dallas?
I heard about swewll so I guess about that
BTW can you help me to change my M35 spark plugs? I will pay your labor as you want.

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:17 pm

thomasm35 wrote:
IlyaKol wrote:Yes you can use a ratchet, but trust me, from the bottom...access to the adjustment bolts is MUCH easier.

Smarter not harder is my motto. But to each their own. I'd rather take 10 minutes to take off the splash guard (I have a lift and air tools), than spend an extra 15 minutes battling trying to get the racket onto a bolt I can't see and can only feel, etc.
It took me 20 minutes to replace the belts. It is a very easy job. Read the shop manual.

You might want to reassess your smarter not harder motto. As I recall you could not get one of your belts off because you did not loosen the tensioner bolt -------read the shop manual.
What's with the attitude? (see bold)

If I didn't know to loosen the tensioner, going from the top or bottom wouldn't have made a difference so therefor your point is mute. Going from the bottom is still smarter as you have much more room to work with (and don't need to lean all over the front of the car and feel around for the tensioner bolts). I guess you're just an amazing human being who can do a belt change from the top in 20 minutes and never drop the wrench or the socket when trying to get it on the tensioner bolts. How long does it take you to swap an engine? 4 hours and a beer? Please...get real.

Bottom line, going form the bottom gives you a better view of everything. If you want to argue that, then you're just plain silly.
markboss wrote:Hey are you from Dallas?
I heard about swewll so I guess about that
BTW can you help me to change my M35 spark plugs? I will pay your labor as you want.
The location of most users is under their username.

thomasm35
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:11 pm
Car: 2007 m35

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby thomasm35 » Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:38 pm

I have changed these belts both from the bottom and the top - changing them from the top is much easier. Who is silly and has attitude?

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:27 am

Well then. You're just amazing.

triac
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:37 am
Car: M35X

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby triac » Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:45 am

I agree with thomas35
"there is no need to remove the bottom cover ..... recommend using a 12mm ratchet wrench on the adjustment bolts - it makes the job easy."

There is no need to remove bottom panel. There is plenty of room and the car is low enough to bend over from the top. Just guide the ratch on to the adjustment bolts with your fingers. Total job is less than 30 mins. Don't forget to loosen the nut in the middle of the idler/puller.

Excellent diagram at
http://www.justanswer.com/car/1o280-cha ... 6-m35.html

User avatar
Ilya
Moderator
Posts: 9025
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Albany, NY
Contact:

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby Ilya » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:03 pm

Wow. Epic first post there. You're really winning.

Too each his own...it takes ME (on my lift with air tools) all of 2 minutes to remove the bottom cover. If someone wants/or chooses to skip that step, by all means. Do it, and make a 'better' HowTo.

The influx of spaz's in this subforum has made me less willing to take the time to document anything in the future.

chelubi
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:04 am
Car: 07 M35x which replaced 06 M45sport

Re: HowTo: Change Engine Belts

Postby chelubi » Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:20 am

Just did both belts from the top. 20-30 minutes. One look at the pics on this link and you know exactly here the tensioner bolts are. No need to remove bottom cover. Unnecessary with the M35, perhaps better to do so with M45. Not everyone has a lift and you absolutely do not need one to do this quick repair.


Return to “Infiniti M35 and M45 Forum”