How To: Install Fortin Remote Start (2012 M37x)

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reggiebrown40
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Ilya wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 7:51 pm
I still haven't figured mine out. I don't know what the issue. I'm working insane hours (60-70 a week) so I have no time to even call Fortin for help. At this point winter will be over and I'll try again sometime in the summer.
It sounds like it stopped working before you added the RF kit, so the RF kit isn't the problem. Just thinking aloud to see what the issue could be. Do you think the unit just lost it's programming? I'd start by reflashing it first to see if it fixes it. Also, you didn't say if you flashed the Evo after you added the RF kit, which I think you have to do before that antenna will start working.

Sucks that it happens when you're working long hours and it's cold as the artic outside. Hopefully you get some free time and good weather in the next week or so to make it happen.

R


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Ilya
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Yep, I reflashed everything (I did email with support and they had me do this followed by RF programming). I just haven't had a chance to call them and physically go through everything.

mrnix
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Ilya wrote:
Fri Feb 08, 2019 2:53 pm
Yep, I reflashed everything (I did email with support and they had me do this followed by RF programming). I just haven't had a chance to call them and physically go through everything.
good luck, man. I know electrical gremlins are incredibly annoying especially when they directly interfere with your comfort or vehicle operation.

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reggiebrown40
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To the OP or anyone who has this installed - Is the auto shut-off working correctly? After 15 minutes of the car running it's supposed to shut off but it doesn'td. Just curious to see if anyone else has this issue.

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reggiebrown40
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Ok, I have the remote start configured how I want now. Timer is set to 15 minutes auto-shut off. Also, there isn't much documentation on the Fortin's site and I found their configuration instructions to be vague at best. One of the issues I was having was the seat going into the set memory position BEFORE I got into the car immediately after using the remote start. The option you need to set here is RAP disable off in the flash programming menu. This will stop the seat from moving into the set position until you get inside the car and close the door. Hopefully this helps someone out.

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I think I made a major mistake.

While following the process provided by Fortin for the immobilizer, I disconnected the 4-pin connector from the device and the positive terminal slipped out of the connector housing and shorted against the negative terminal. I saw the spark.

I tapped power at the white connector as this DIY suggests. What did I break? I can't seem to find a blown fuse anywhere.

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David__Allen wrote:
Sat Feb 16, 2019 11:05 pm
I think I made a major mistake.

While following the process provided by Fortin for the immobilizer, I disconnected the 4-pin connector from the device and the positive terminal slipped out of the connector housing and shorted against the negative terminal. I saw the spark.

I tapped power at the white connector as this DIY suggests. What did I break? I can't seem to find a blown fuse anywhere.
Following up...

So it seems nothing has been damaged. I was having issues with the module when trying to “learn” the key Immobilizer info... I was not getting the LEDs that I should have been on the canbus module. Step 7 of their instructions says that the blue and red LEDs should be illuminated, then blue should
blink. I was only getting solid blue, no red.

Now my security/Immobilizer light is illuminated. The car runs and drives fine but I cannot start it with my key unless the battery is in it (putting it by the start button does not work). I found others on the Fortin forum with similar issues (also Infiniti) and the issue apparently resolved itself. Guess I’ll have to wait and see.

In the meantime, does anyone know why I couldn’t complete the programming steps?

This entire process has been a nightmare and I wish I had never bought this system.

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I have never been so frustrated in my life. To anyone considering this device - take my advice and don’t do it.

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Sorry to keep spamming this post - I’m looking everywhere for answers without much luck. When you guys installed your remote starts, did you receive an included hood pin, and if so did you use it?

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reggiebrown40
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David__Allen wrote:
Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:51 am
Sorry to keep spamming this post - I’m looking everywhere for answers without much luck. When you guys installed your remote starts, did you receive an included hood pin, and if so did you use it?
I didn't use the hood pin. It's not necessary because this is just an immobilizer bypass and not an alarm.
David__Allen wrote:
Sun Feb 17, 2019 3:24 pm
I have never been so frustrated in my life. To anyone considering this device - take my advice and don’t do it.

I somewhat agree with this statement. The unit is not very well supported, the documentation is unclear in many places, and if you get stuck you'll have to figure it out on your own or try their support site and hope for the best. I have two outstanding issues:
a) lights stay on after you lock the door using the 3X feature to disable the remote start (or if you allow the shut-off run timer to complete)
b) the seat memory activates when you start the car RAP off or when you open the door RAP off.

I called tech support and they told me i had the door pin wired incorrectly for the lights issue. However, I followed the steps above just like everyone else so I'll need for someone to confirm if possible. If you remote start the car and remote shut off the car, do your lights stay on indefinitely? Also, are your doors unlocked when you do this? For issue b, I know it's possible because the Viper unit was able to do it.

Following up...

So it seems nothing has been damaged. I was having issues with the module when trying to “learn” the key Immobilizer info... I was not getting the LEDs that I should have been on the canbus module. Step 7 of their instructions says that the blue and red LEDs should be illuminated, then blue should
blink. I was only getting solid blue, no red.

Now my security/Immobilizer light is illuminated. The car runs and drives fine but I cannot start it with my key unless the battery is in it (putting it by the start button does not work). I found others on the Fortin forum with similar issues (also Infiniti) and the issue apparently resolved itself. Guess I’ll have to wait and see.

In the meantime, does anyone know why I couldn’t complete the programming steps?

This entire process has been a nightmare and I wish I had never bought this system.
[/quote]


I can't remember, but I think my light was solid blue as well. I just kept following the steps until completion and then took the unit inside to my computer to use Decryptor. Took the unit back to the car and it worked fine afterwards.

Are you sure you hooked up both connectors at the push button switch? I didn't at first and my security light stayed lit. Might be your issue here as well.

Make sure you're at the latest flash version before starting. Good luck and hopefully everything sorts itself out.

R

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Thanks for the reply. I double-checked all of the T connections, and they appear to be good. I did try completing the steps despite the incorrect LED sequences, but the decryptor said something along the lines of “no key data found”. I’ll try again. I also noticed just today that this DIY guide calls for splicing to a different wire for the parking lights than the instructions provided by Fortin. I’ll try changing that as well - My car is a different model year (2013) and probably has different options, although I wouldn’t expect the parking light wire to be in a different place (it isn’t even the same connector that this guide suggests).

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I take back what I said. It may have been incredibly frustrating but I finally got it to work. There are a lot of nuances that are not well explained in the documents from Fortin. I really do think that in my situation, everything that could have gone wrong went wrong. After enough trial and error I got everything to work, and I believe that several different factors were contributing to my issues (user error being a big one... I’ll admit it). If I ever had to do this again I’m confident that it would go smooth.

I will never touch this thing again. If it stops working tomorrow I will leave everything connected and pretend like none of this ever happened :rotflmao

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Ilya
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What did you end up doing? Wondering if it may help my issues as well (I also have the security light on the dash but my programming of the module seems to work flawlessly, my car just won't respond to the command to start - it'll flash the lights on the EVO-ALL quickly and then do nothing).

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Some causes of my issues, in no particular order:

- OBD connection was not properly seated during learning procedure
- 4-pin connector to evo-all (one that supplies power) was weakened by the constant connecting/disconnecting that I was doing. Ended up having intermittent power issues that caused the device to act erratic (re-flashing firmware fixed this)
- did the triple button-press too quickly when solid yellow LED was on
- numerous hard resets and repeating learning procedure. Ended up forgetting to change default settings with flash-link
- Mine didn’t seem to like when I changed options after using the dcryptor (maybe someone can confirm whether or not we’re supposed to be able to do this)

The security light went away immediately after I got it all right and started the car with the remote for the first time. I think the car sets that light off when it sees a signal from the evo-all that it doesn’t recognize. Perhaps you can use a multimeter to check connections at the T-taps (brake switch in particular) to rule out a bad connection somewhere. I would suggest redoing the whole learning/settings/decrypting procedure too but it seems you’ve done that.

Maybe this is different for you but when I clicked the “load recommended settings” button in the flash-link software, it would go through the whole process but none of the settings would actually change. I had to check the boxes I wanted manually (and forgot the RAP disable setting for the drivers seat adjustment upon start... d’oh).

If you can’t get it working I would venture to guess the module is no good. It’s strange that it was being so inconsistent.

I really want to fix the RAP disable issue with mine but that thing is not coming back out. I had to hot glue the 4 pin connector because I was afraid it’d pop out on its own. I’m just gonna live with it.

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Ilya
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My remote start saga is over and it was incredibly simple/stupid of me.

After I had gotten it working initially, while I was trying to add the RF kit, I must have reprogrammed it using the wrong setting and it turned on the A11 option which is for the hood switch. This is LITERALLY the ONLY reason why my remote start stopped working. This is why the OEM fob or RF fobs wouldn't start it. After giving up for a few months as it was too cold to mess with it even in the garage (its not heated), today I had a day off and it was ~70. It took me all of 15 minutes to call support, fix the A11 issue and add the RF kit which instantly started working.

BEAUTIFUL.

mrnix
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Ilya wrote:
Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:51 pm
My remote start saga is over and it was incredibly simple/stupid of me.

After I had gotten it working initially, while I was trying to add the RF kit, I must have reprogrammed it using the wrong setting and it turned on the A11 option which is for the hood switch. This is LITERALLY the ONLY reason why my remote start stopped working. This is why the OEM fob or RF fobs wouldn't start it. After giving up for a few months as it was too cold to mess with it even in the garage (its not heated), today I had a day off and it was ~70. It took me all of 15 minutes to call support, fix the A11 issue and add the RF kit which instantly started working.

BEAUTIFUL.
glad you figured it out. Now add one of these (wire the NO to ground and the COM to black/yellow wire from the Fortin module and power with +12v)
and you can remote start your car with your phone or Alexa - as long as you're within home wifi range.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G ... UTF8&psc=1

Aolson345
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So after reading post I have ordered everything was wondering if anyone knows I it works for both key fobs? As my wife has a fob and I have the other one. Would like to be able to use both. Thanks. And great write up

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Ilya
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I'd say it's going to work fine for both as the code for both fobs must be the same to start the same car.

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reggiebrown40
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Aolson345 wrote:
Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:30 pm
So after reading post I have ordered everything was wondering if anyone knows I it works for both key fobs? As my wife has a fob and I have the other one. Would like to be able to use both. Thanks. And great write up
It will work but will annoy you. The system seemed to randomly pick my wife or my key settings when I remotely started the car. Basically what this means is that her seat settings, radio stations, mirror settings would be set when I got to the car, even though I started the car with my key fob. I fixed the problem by getting her a Q60.

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Ilya
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reggiebrown40 wrote:
Tue Sep 17, 2019 8:25 am
I fixed the problem by getting her a Q60.
Hahah. :rotflmao

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What's the difference between the regular install and stand-alone install instructions?
Regular: https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/75141/ ... _75141.pdf
Stand-alone: https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/75151/ ... _75151.pdf

Did you guys connect wire A16 to A10?
What's the point of cutting the connector and tapping it to 12v and ground if the T-harness already draws power from the OBD2 port?

Aolson345
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Great post! But god damn you guys must have aome small hands. There was no way i was getting push to start button out. Took me around 4 hours no way ot would take someone who never done something like this 1 hour. I i had to do it again i could do it in 45 mins.
Helpful hint- Cut back electrical tape to give more access to wires

Issues i ran into:
-Learning how to use the splice connector haha
-Push to start button is hard as s*** to get out.
I cut the black tape around the wires found brown one and just spliced it there.
-Brake connector hard to push in and pull out. Finally fot it.
-Followed instrutions for programming and decryting.
Hooked up all lights were doing what they were suppose to but car was not remote starting.
Unplugged fortin hooked back up to comp and when thru settings. Make sure to have 3x start on
Make sure hood setting is off.

Hooked back up and started flawlessly.

Thanks again for the write up with photos bud. A+

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Ilya
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Yeah hood setting is what got me lol. And I agree on the button, I struggled too. I had to use pliers for the clips or whatever IIRC.

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I'm tempted to do this, but cutting wires always freaks me out. I got a quote to have one professionally installed and it was $389, so basically $300 labor fee. Kind of steep.

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Big_Tone wrote:
Thu Nov 12, 2020 3:36 pm
I'm tempted to do this, but cutting wires always freaks me out. I got a quote to have one professionally installed and it was $389, so basically $300 labor fee. Kind of steep.
the $300 is worth it if you have reservations about modifying vehicle wiring. This job is not hugely difficult if you've had some experience putting in a car stereo or car alarm, but if you have not, it is far from easy.

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mrnix wrote:
Tue Nov 17, 2020 3:05 pm
Big_Tone wrote:
Thu Nov 12, 2020 3:36 pm
I'm tempted to do this, but cutting wires always freaks me out. I got a quote to have one professionally installed and it was $389, so basically $300 labor fee. Kind of steep.
the $300 is worth it if you have reservations about modifying vehicle wiring. This job is not hugely difficult if you've had some experience putting in a car stereo or car alarm, but if you have not, it is far from easy.
I have plenty of experience with car stereos, but I always had a wire harness, so it was plug & play. No splicing involved.


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