man this forum helped me a lot. I just took out the blower motor cleaned it and it started right up. I only took 60 really to take out. Thanks for the help.

Skibane, thank you so much for creating this thread!
I successfully replaced the amp for my 95 Maxima back in 2008 after the blower stopped working, and now it is happening again. The part number for my car is 27761-70t04, so it seems very similar, and the part looks identical. I am going to test the cutout tonight when I get home. Since the part (thermal cutout) is so cheap, I am going to go ahead and order in advance. Thanks again for helping out!

This was a GREAT write-up. It has certainly helped me to determine what the problem is. I'm wondering if you may have any more thermal cutoffs available. I would like to get one to repair my 03 pathy.

pongmaster21 wrote:I'm wondering if you may have any more thermal cutoffs available.

Nope - sorry.

The Xicon 145 degree thermal cutout that was originally recommended as a replacement is no longer available from Mouser Electronics. However, you can order the Panasonic version from Digi-Key for 76 cents. Unfortunately, Digi-Key charges a $5 fee for orders under $25, so it'll end up costing you 8 or 9 bucks by the time you also include shipping.

BTW, Digi-Key also has the IRFP064 power MOSFET for $6.75, so you might consider ordering both parts at the same time.

Skibane wrote:TRM972, the Fuji datasheet in your link shows the 2SK2690 as having a TO-3P package, which doesn't resemble the FDH-5500's TO-247 package at all. So, even if the electrical specs are similar, it would be difficult to mount the new MOSFET so that it was well heat-sunk to the Fan Amp enclosure.

Using Mouser's parameter search function, the closest potential replacement I could find that is in stock is the IRFP048 (Mouser Part No. 844-IRFP048PBF), which is made by Vishay. It has the same TO-247 package as the FDH5500_F085, but has a considerably lower maximum power dissipation (even though the current and voltage ratings are similar). Since it's cheap and readily available, I'd be tempted to try it.

To answer your other question, none of the folks who have installed the FDH-5500 have reported problems with it. I'm still on the original NEC 2SK2500 in my Q, so I can't provide any first-hand info.
Modified by Skibane at 10:29 PM 3/29/2010

Skibane, Can you send me 1 of these Mosfets? FDH5500 Power MOSFET Transistors. If anyone one wants one, let me know.
Please Send to: Comet LLC
P.O. Box 5471
Deptford N.J. 08096 Thank you.

Skibane do you have any of the transistors left that you bought off match a knob? please drop me an email if you'd like to sell 1
[email protected]
Thanks

Sorry - I'm all out of parts. They sold rather quickly...

i am from the netherlands so exuses for the bad english ,

why do the ask around 80 euro for this ?

Because they can?

Much less expensive to order the replacement transistor.

WOW, helpful thread, updating the thread I made regarding this....

anyone find parts that aren't backordered?

Most of everything in this thread seems backordered!

Looks like Digi-Key has the IRFP064PbF power MOSFET (which is a lead-free version of the IRFP064) in stock here, and the 145 degree Thermal Cutout here.

Note that Digi-Key tacks a $5 "service charge" on orders under $25. Still, that's lot cheaper than ordering a complete fan amplifier.

thanks for the clarification Skibane.

Thanks for taking the time to put together this excellent post! I replaced the fan amp transistor on my 1992 Maxima and now it is working just fine, and for very little money. I have an extra 2SD1297 which I will be happy to send to someone for my cost, or you can still buy them (min. order 2) at: http://audiolabga.com/

Very cool. Glad to hear that the 2SD1297 can still be found!

Welcome to the NICO forums, rayme!

Skibane:

This is about the fan amp repair, I have a 99 Pathy auto temp control, blower going on full speed, blower motor has been repaired, could it be a faulty repair (drawing too much current) is the cause for the fan amp failure? DO you know if the parts for PAthfinder (the amp) are the same as for Q45?

jxaguirre wrote:Skibane:
blower going on full speed, blower motor has been repaired, could it be a faulty repair (drawing too much current) is the cause for the fan amp failure?

It could also be that before the blower motor was repaired, it over-stressed the fan control amp. Typically, a bad motor draws excessive current, which overheats the control amp. So, by repairing the motor, you may have fixed that part of the problem - now all you may need to fix is the fan amp itself.

DO you know if the parts for PAthfinder (the amp) are the same as for Q45?

I know of one other NICO member who repaired his Pathfinder's fan amp with this procedure. Unfortunately, I don't know what year that Pathfinder was.

The only way to know for sure is to open your fan amp up, and compare its innerds with the photos. If your fan amp uses the same S2SD1297 or 2SK2500 power transistor as the Q45 models, then this procedure should work for you.

If you try it, please post your results, so that other Pathfinder owners can benefit from your experience.

Hello everyone! I just became a member and what helped my desicion was a very well step by step description on how to fix a fan control amp. by Skybane. Thank you very much! I am good on replacing the parts, but i don't know where to get the replacements. If Skybane let me know how to get the extra parts, I will get some of them. Thank you

nmax95 wrote:Skibane, thank you so much for creating this thread!
I successfully replaced the amp for my 95 Maxima back in 2008 after the blower stopped working, and now it is happening again. The part number for my car is 27761-70t04, so it seems very similar, and the part looks identical. I am going to test the cutout tonight when I get home. Since the part (thermal cutout) is so cheap, I am going to go ahead and order in advance. Thanks again for helping out!

Hi to all of you!

I have a problem with my air conditioner on my Nissan Maxima '95: it goes on and off. I've been told by the mechanic that Fan Control Amplifier needs to be replaced. He estimated the cost of the part plus installation about $350 ($200 for amplifier and $150 for labor).

I decided to search the Internet for this problem, and found your blog. Thank you. But here is my question: one Nissan dealership offered part number 27761-85E01 for 140.53 + 13.06 tax = $153.51. However, when I called another Nissan place, they told me that this part is wrong for my vehicle, and checking my VIN number they said I need part number 27761-70T04. They want for it $96.32 + tax. I was about to order it through them, but realized they charge 15% restocking fee for the returned items.

So, I wonder if anybody could help me out with this question: which part number do I need: 27761-85E01 or 27761-70T04?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Hello everyone! Just to know if it can be possible that a 2001 Path 2wd has no cabin air filter. I've been working on my fan control amp replacing the thermal cutoff, but I noticed that there is no cabin air filters. If somebody can tell me if there is any other location where the cabin air filters could be located. Thank you

gipearson wrote:I successfully replaced the amp for my 95 Maxima back in 2008 after the blower I have a problem with my air conditioner on my Nissan Maxima '95: it goes on and off. I've been told by the mechanic that Fan Control Amplifier needs to be replaced

Welcome to the NICO forums, gipearson!

From your description of the problem, it sounds like your mechanic may be wrong.

Usually, when the blower randomly quits and then starts working again, the problem is the blower itself, NOT the Fan Control Amplifier. When the FCA quits working, it almost never starts working again until it is either repaired or replaced.

Frontier11 wrote:Hello everyone! I just became a member and what helped my desicion was a very well step by step description on how to fix a fan control amp. by Skybane. Thank you very much! I am good on replacing the parts, but i don't know where to get the replacements. If Skybane let me know how to get the extra parts, I will get some of them. Thank you

And a NICO welcome to you as well, Frontier11!

As I previously posted in this thread, the parts can be ordered from Digi-Key:

Looks like Digi-Key has the IRFP064PbF power MOSFET (which is a lead-free version of the IRFP064) in stock here, and the 145 degree Thermal Cutout here.

Note that Digi-Key tacks a $5 "service charge" on orders under $25. Still, that's lot cheaper than ordering a complete fan amplifier.

But be aware that a worn or dirty blower motor can take out a perfectly good controller.

I purchased the new numbered parts from Digi-Key followed the detailed instructions exactly (great job with those) and my fan amplifier worked great for about an hour then stopped completely. Since then it has come on intermittently twice but is dead most of the time. Any thoughts on this? Would something have blown the repaired amplifier? Could there be something else causing the problem? I'd hate to repeat the whole process only to have it blow again due to something else.

By the way, when I ordered, there was no $25 minimum with Digi_key. I don't know if they discontinued that policy or if it was because I checked the box that the parts were being shipped to a business.

Thanks for the help!

plundccre, it sounds like you have a blower motor that's going out. When the motor brushes wear down past a certain point, they only make electrical contact some of the time - so, the motor only works some of the time. Sometimes, you can get the motor to run for a few minutes by tapping the outside of the motor housing with a hammer, but it's not a repair.

These motors are notorious for not lasting more than 100K or so, and they can overheat the Fan Control Amplifier when they go bad - which might be why your fan amp needed repair in the first place. I would replace the blower motor as soon as possible, before it damages the fan amp again.

Most cabin filters in Nissan are immediately in front of the evaporator closet.

I purchased a new fan motor however I bench tested the old one and it seems to run fine, though a bench test would not show if it was drawing excessive power and burning out the Fan amp. I guess I am better off replacing the fan anyway.

The problem is that the system still does not work at all. I see to recall that somewhere it was posted a way to check if the fan amp was working with an ohm meter and checking the resistance but I have been unable to locate that post. Does any one know where I can find the post? I'd like to confirm that the recently repaired amp is blown before I repair it again and find out that isn't the problem either.

This is all becoming very frustrating. This is my wife's car and she is giving me a lot of grief. The dealer tole her that the problem would be either the fan amp ($179 + labor) or the fan motor ($275 + labor) or both. however it may be that it is neither. If it's not the fan or the amp, is there anything else I should be checking?

plundccre wrote: I see to recall that somewhere it was posted a way to check if the fan amp was working with an ohm meter and checking the resistance but I have been unable to locate that post.

It's in the very first post in this thread, in the "HOW TO TROUBLE-SHOOT IT" section.

If the Thermal Cutout has blown, you will measure infinite resistance between the two printed-circuit pads shown at the top of this photo:

plundccre wrote: The dealer tole her that the problem would be either the fan amp ($179 + labor) or the fan motor ($275 + labor) or both. however it may be that it is neither. If it's not the fan or the amp, is there anything else I should be checking?

They are directly related so treating one without treating the other is a formula for certain failure again soon.

Thanks. Now that the fan has been replaced, I'll go back and check to see if the apm has blown yet again.

Dear Skibane, Would you be willing to coach me on repairing my amp for an "02 Quest? This amp looks much more complicated than all others. It has from what I can see, 3 power transistors, some kind of transformer, some ic's and 3 capacitors . If I could get your email address I could send pics of this as I have some of it taken apart. I need to know hoe to test the transistors with my multi-meter. Thanks in advance, Ted , [email protected]