How to Detail like a Pro

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
Turbogst
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How to Detail like a Pro

Postby Turbogst » Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:11 am

I just wanted to start this so I don't forget. I will be adding Info to this till it is complete with pictures of a full detail on a pathfinder.Please just bare with me as we are trying to close on a house and it's crazy around here.

Five Steps to keep your car looking its best.

1. Avoid scratches as much as possibleWe start with scratches. Why? Because they are the biggest enemy to your car's finish. And avoiding scratches is the secret to keeping your car looking good. Dirt and grime, rubbed in while washing or drying, will act like sandpaper and dull your car's paint. There is one basic rule which will guide you whenever you touch the surface of your automobile:Anything that comes in contact with your car's finish should be soft.

2. As much as possible, protect your cars finish from the elements.This means storing the car in a garage or covered area. Also, the use of a car cover is highly recommended. A car that is constantly exposed to sunlight and other environmental hazards will deteriorate quicker and require significantly more cosmetic maintenance.

3. Always keep a good coat of wax or paint sealant on the car.In addition to providing gloss and depth, wax will also protect your car from the elements, including sunlight and many other circumstances that you will encounter, from bug carcasses to bird droppings.

4. Be aware of your car's finish.Make regular quick inspections of your cars surface a habit. Look it over and note its condition, keeping in mind its recent history and what you anticipate will happen in the future.

5. Make a habit of detailing your car.In most cases, washing your car once a month is adequate. Once every two weeks is better and necessary if the car is subject to harsh conditions.



WASHING

First Never wash in direct sunlight. Pick a shady spot. Second it’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet still effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.

Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a Microfiber mitts. However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin.

Microfiber wash mitts are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.

Cotton chenille pads and mitts are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.

Proper Washing1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash your vehicle. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, . Agitate with a wheel brush to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one. NOW EMPTY AND RINSE ALL CLEANING MARTERIALS

2. Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed container It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all fantastic choices. They do not remove wax and provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.

3. How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.

An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.

For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.

5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.

DryingNever skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, invariably create water spots.

You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade. This is a “paint-safe” squeegee that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there. Or for a TOTALLY TURBO-CHARGED fast drying experience go with a leaf blower for a flawless finish. This is the ultimate detailing tool, for clean up and dry down.

If you use a California Water Blade you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, Glass Towel will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.

Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They shed lint. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe. All Cobra Microfiber Towels are engineered to be LINT-FREE!

You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard.

Drying Tips Dry the windows and mirrors first. A series of careful firm strokes with your California Water Blade will remove any remaining water.

3. Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs.

4. Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.

The Finishing TouchUse a spray wax or spray sealant like Mothers Showtime Detailer or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax.

The Foam Gun OptionIf the hose and bucket method isn't for you, there's the foam gun option. The idea behind a foam gun is that it presoaks the vehicle in suds to start loosening grime and lubricating the paint right away. And truth be told, it's a lot of fun to use a foam gun. Wolfgang has three foam gun options:

The Foamaster Foam Gun works with your water hose to deliver the soapy water to the vehicle. The Foamaster's tip helps boost water pressure to put a little power behind the delivery.

The Tornador Air Foamer HP is a high powered foam gun that works with any air compressor capable of producing 60-90 psi. The Tornador uses very little water so it's a good idea to hose down the vehicle first. Then let the foam fly! The Tornador create fluffy, air-filled foam.The Foam Cannon HP work with a pressure washer. The Foam Cannon HP blasts a mixture of water and soap through the tip at a high pressure to release a lot of grime immediately. This foam gun uses less water than a hose, but packs a lot of pressure. The foam produced is not as light as the Tornador, but it clings very well.

Clean Water Makes for a Clean CarIf you’re taking all the precautions every time you wash your vehicle and you’re still getting spots and swirls, the problem may be the water.

No water is pure. All water has minerals and most has some form of sediment. If your car shampoo (or hair shampoo) doesn’t lather well and your faucets and fixtures tend to turn green, you’ve got hard water. If water will not sheet off your vehicle and you’re constantly battling water spots, you’ve got hard water. Hard water is mainly caused by calcium and magnesium, which can be removed with a water softener.

Sediment is another common enemy of any paint finish. Sediment is actually dirt and rust in the water line. Water treatment plants filter out sediment but more sediment can enter the pipes between the plant and your home. This is why household faucets have screens in them. If you have well water, beware. You most likely have sediment and hard water.

A Clear Inline Hose Filter will clean and soften the water before it reaches your vehicle. Connect it to any standard garden hose hooked up to an exterior spigot. Insert a 5 micron sediment filter or a water softener cartridge to address your specific water problem. The filter is easy to install and its cost is nominal compared to amount of time and money you’ll save on paint care.

If you’ve got both water problems, get two hose filters so you can filter out sediment and soften the water before it exits the hose s With a little preventative maintenance, your vehicle will rinse clean and have less water-related micro-marring.

Modified by Turbogst at 6:39 AM 9/22/2009
Modified by Turbogst at 6:42 AM 9/22/2009


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sicwitit
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby sicwitit » Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:38 am

The only thing I think you should add, is NEVER, under any circumstances, ever ever EVER touch your car with a cloth, sponge, wipe, chamois, or anything that has ever touched or fell on the ground.

Also, I use some pretty high class stuff on my cars (Griots garage and 3M products mainly) and every time I wash, wax, whatever, I always run my mitts and sponges through the washer machine with a little car wash as the soap. Always check your materials for contaminates.

Way back in the day, I worked for a detail shop that specialized in mid-high end cars so I have most of what you said ingrained in my noggin. Everything you said is very good information.

Turbogst
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (sicwitit)

Postby Turbogst » Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:00 am

This is going to be a long post with everything from washing to polishing and using the clay bar.

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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby slickroger » Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:55 am

sweet any chrome wheel tips

Turbogst
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (slickroger)

Postby Turbogst » Tue Sep 22, 2009 11:49 am

i'll add that next just for you

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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby Pwnin O'Brien » Tue Sep 22, 2009 11:50 am

Can we get some tips on how to apply touch up paint and make it look great?

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lino
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Pwnin O'Brien)

Postby lino » Tue Sep 22, 2009 12:43 pm

This is a great place for the info you're asking for:

http://autopia.org/forum/

Turbogst
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (lino)

Postby Turbogst » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:32 am

Im putting all the info here so there is no searching for anything .Can we not add links to to this post and any more questions or anything you guys want added pm me. I don't wanna clutter this up.

Turbogst
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby Turbogst » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:39 am

How to Detail Wheels & Tires

Cleaning your wheels and tires regularly is not just an appearance issue – it’s preventative maintenance!

If you allow brake dust to sit on your wheels for a prolonged period of time, it can eat into the coating (if there is one) and pit the metal. Brake dust is made of an adhesive and carbon fibers that come off the brake pad and tiny metal shavings from the rotor. The intense heat and friction generated by the wheels makes this mixture highly corrosive. Because you probably drive every day, more brake dust is constantly being made. Frequent cleaning is the only way to keep your wheels safe.

Step 1:

When you wash your vehicle, clean the wheels and tires first. This will prevent overspray or grime from splashing onto already-clean panels. If you like to clean your wheels and tires with soap and water, use a separate wash and rinse bucket and soft bristle brush.

Step 2:

Choose a cleaner that is appropriate for the type of wheels you have. Roughcast aluminum and chrome can withstand stronger cleaners than coated, painted, or anodized wheels. The cleaner will say what it is suited for on the label. For example, Mother’s All Purpose Wheel Mist can be used on any type of wheel, but their Chrome/Wire Wheel Cleaner is not safe for coated wheels. If you are not sure what kind of wheels you have, use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels.

If you have a black plastic license plate frame, it will benefit from a coat of protectant, too.I prefer to use a cleaner that works on the tires, too.

You’d be surprised how many tire and wheel brushes are out there. Basically, you want to look for a brush with feathered bristles for the wheels. This will prevent scratching.

Tires require a stiffer brush to really scrub the rubber. Don’t be afraid to put a little elbow grease into it, particularly if your tires have layers of old dressings on them. These layers will turn brown and make your tires look worn out if you don’t scrub them off.

Step 3:

Always clean your tires and wheels one set at a time to prevent the cleaner from drying. Wash and then rinse with a strong jet of water before moving to the next tire.

Step 4:

Don’t forget to dry your wheels! Use a Microfiber Detailing Towel or a terry cloth towel, but not one that you plan to use on any other part of your vehicle. Once a towel is used on the tires or wheels, it should always be used for tires and wheels. Drying prevents water spots and helps you remove every last bit of the brake dust.

Wax your wheels!

Once your wheels are clean and dry, apply a quality wheel protectant like DP Wheel Glaze or Wheel Wax to seal the wheel surface. These products work just like car wax. Apply them with an applicator pad and then buff the wheel. They keep your wheels looking shiny, and they prevent brake dust adhesion. Your wheels look cleaner longer. You have to reapply these products weekly, but it’s better than scrubbing your wheels every two days. The good news is, if you use a wheel wax as recommended, water is the only thing you need to clean your wheels between waxings. Once your wheels are clean and dry, apply a quality wheel protectant Wheel Wax to seal the wheel surface.

Dressings provide UV protection and prevent drying, cracking and fading. With a little TLC, your vehicle’s wheels and tires will look as sharp as the rest of your ride! Dress for Success

Choose your tire dressing carefully. Old formulas contain silicone, which produces a glossy shine but it turns brown over time. These dressings deplete the rubber’s own protectants faster, causing it to age prematurely. Newer formulas, are water based. They create the look of new tires with a semi-gloss sheen that doesn’t turn brown. It also nourishes the rubber . You can often layer water-based dressings to get a glossier shine. Follow the directions on the label carefully. Always apply thin coats and allow drying time before you drive your vehicle. Even the best dressing will sling off if it’s on too thick or it doesn’t have time to dry.

Dressings provide UV protection and prevent drying, cracking and fading. With a little TLC, your vehicle’s wheels and tires will look as sharp as the rest of your ride!

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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby Turbogst » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:44 am

How to Polish Metal

Aluminum

There’s nothing like the gleam of just-polished metal and we’ll tell you how to get it.

Aluminum is a relatively soft metal and its one of the easier metals to polish and get a bright shine. Aluminum, usually an aluminum alloy, is used to make wheels, trailers – including the vintage Air Stream trailers, diamond plate, engine components, and so on.

For all its great qualities, aluminum oxidizes very easily. It’s actually a defense mechanism of the metal: a light layer of aluminum oxide protects the underlying metal from corrosion. This aluminum oxide is functional but its not attractive, and that’s why factory-polished aluminum is usually coated. (In this case, you need a metal polish that is safe on coatings, unless you plan to remove the coating. For stripping the coating, consult a professional.)

If your aluminum is uncoated, you’re ready to get started with an aluminum polish. Aluminum Polishes are formulated just for aluminum and other uncoated metals. They are incredibly effective at removing oxidation, tarnish, stains, and water spots.



First, there’s Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Compound. If you have aluminum wheels or a trailer that has never been polished, ever, this is where you need to start. This is an aggressive prepolish that removes the oxidation and cleans the aluminum surface. It leaves a clean and somewhat shiny surface. The follow-up polishes are what really turn up the gloss.

To apply Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Compound to a large surface, like a trailer, use a Wolfgang MetallWerk™ 4 Ply 100% Twisted Wool Compounding Pad. The twisted wool strands give the pad the cutting power necessary to eliminate years of oxidation. Wipe the compound onto the surface with an applicator pad first to avoid sling. Work at a speed of 1200-1500 RPM (5-6 on your dual action polisher). Polish until oxidation and stains have disappeared. Wool pads are made to lint so wear proper eye protection and old clothes. Buff the aluminum with a towel. Polishing aluminum is a messy process so have plenty of towels on hand.

Once you’ve used the prepolish, use Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Fine Aluminum Polish to enhance the shine. If the aluminum is only lightly oxidized, this may be your first step. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Fine Aluminum Polish is a fine grade polish that continues to clean the metal but its main function is to burnish it to a glossy shine. Follow the same directions as above but use a 50/50 Wool Acrylic Pad on your polisher. (If you’re going to use the Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball, use a clean one.)

The aluminum should have a brilliant shine at this point. This next step is really for perfectionists, collectors, and car show enthusiasts. Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Concours Aluminum Polish is a very fine, gloss-enhancing polish that creates a fantastic, mirror-like shine. This is the icing on the cake. For most daily drivers, this might be considered excessive. But if you have to have the cleanest, brightest, most brilliant shine possible, this is the polish you need. Apply it with a fluffy, Electrified White Sheepskin Final Polishing Pad at a speed of 1000 RPM (4 on a dual action polisher). If using a PowerBall or Polishing Ball, work at 1000 RPM. Excellent results can also be achieved by hand polishing with a soft, clean microfiber cloth.

There’s nothing like the gleam of just-polished metal and we’ll tell you how to get it.Use a 4 Ply Twisted Compounding Pad with your rotary to work in the compound.Use a 4 Ply Twisted Compounding Pad with your rotary to work in the compound.Spread the polish on the surfaceSpread the polish on the surfacebefore turning on the polisher.Work at a speed of 1200-1500 RPM (5-6 on your dual action polisher)Polish between 1200-1500 RPM(or 5-6 OPM on a dual action polisher)Polish until your surface appears to be cleanPolish until your surface appears to be clean and glossy. It may take several passes to completely remove the oxidation.Wipe the surface clean.Wipe the surface clean. Repeat the process if stains or oxidation are still present.

If you’re using Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Compound on wheels, use Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball at 3000 RPM on your electric drill.

If you’re using Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Compound on wheels, use Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball at 3000 RPM on your electric drill.

Anodized Aluminum

Anodized Aluminum is a unique material in that it’s meant to be oxidized. Remember when I said aluminum oxidizes as a defense mechanism against deeper corrosion? Anodizing increases the thickness of the aluminum oxide layer to strengthen the underlying aluminum’s natural resistance to corrosion. The resulting finish is very porous and is therefore usually sealed or dyed. That’s why many metal polishes cannot be used on anodized aluminum. Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer is one of the few that can be used with excellent results.

Chrome

Chrome is actually a plated metal. Chromium, the metal used in chrome-plating, is highly resistant to tarnish and retains a reflective shine better than any other metal. However, chrome will rust without regular maintenance. The best way to keep small rust spots from becoming a big problem is to remove them ASAP. The sooner you catch the damage and correct it, the better your chances are of saving the chrome.

There are a lot of great products on the market for cleaning and polishing chrome. If the chrome has heavy oxidation, calcium or lime scale, or green tarnish, use Flitz Industrial Strength Aluminum PreClean first. Despite its name, it can safely be used to clean chrome. This product is an intense cleaner that removes the bulk of the oxidation so the metal polish can get to the source of the problem. It saves you elbow grease and gets you results faster. Spray it on, wait 7-10 minutes, use a sturdy nylon brush to gently scrub the metal, and then rinse well. Quick, easy, and effective.

Next, use a metal polish that states on the label that it is safe on chrome. Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer is a very safe but very effective metal polish. It removes rust, tar, water spots, and bugs on all types of metal, plastic, and painted surfaces. The application will be the same for most metal polishes: wipe it on with a soft cloth, rub briskly (not hard), and buff off with a clean cloth.

If you have an electric drill, you will save yourself a lot of work by using Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball.Hand polishing can be tedious. If you have an electric drill, you will save yourself a lot of work by using Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball. Both of these tools improve the performance of the metal polish by polishing faster than you can by hand. Wipe the polish onto the chrome with a cloth or applicator. Start your drill at a low speed and gradually increase it to 3000 RPM. Work until the polish starts to disappear. Stains and rust should be gone; if not, try again. Metal polishing isn’t always easy but the rewards are pure bliss to an auto enthusiast.

Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer leaves a clear, protective film on the chrome that resists fingerprints and oxidation. To touch up chrome between polishing sessions, use Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner. It’s similar to a quick detailer for metal. Just spray and wipe with a Cobra Microfiber Towel to remove fingerprints, smudges, fresh water spots, and bird droppings. This is a great product for last-minute touch-ups before a car show or a special occasion.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is another metal that is highly resistant to corrosion, staining, spotting, and rust. But, like anything else, maintenance is needed to keep it looking sharp.

Stainless steel is a very hard metal and consequently, it can be difficult to get a really spectacular shine like you can get on chrome and aluminum. But, with the right products and a little patience, you can get impressive results on stainless steel.I recommend Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Fine Aluminum Polish. Though it says aluminum, it is safe and effective on stainless steel. The only noticeable difference is that it will not create a black residue as you polish, like it would on aluminum. If you’re polishing a large surface, you can use a wool pad on your polisher. Work at a speed of 1200-1500 RPM until you achieve the desired shine. If you’re polishing a small surface, like wheels or exhaust tips, a soft cloth will do the trick.

Another excellent metal polish is Wenol Red to polish out oxidation and stains on stainless steel. Another excellent metal polish is Wenol Red to polish out oxidation and stains on stainless steel. Use a small amount and rub briskly, not hard, until you see a nice shine appear. Again, Mothers PowerBall Mini or Flitz Polishing Ball comes in handy. Once you’re satisfied with the results, buff the stainless steel clean with a soft microfiber towel.

Use Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner for regular cleaning between polishes and after you wash your vehicle.

Sealing Metal

After polishing, you don’t want all your hard work to go to waste. Seal in the shine with Wolfang MetallWerk™ Concours Metal Sealant. This is an acrylic polymer sealant for all metals, coated and uncoated. This product is an absolute necessity for daily drivers! The crystal clear coating will block out contaminants and the elements to keep your polished metal surfaces looking like new. Apply it with a foam or microfiber applicator pad and allow it to dry completely. Buff off the residue with a clean, soft Cobra Microfiber Towel. If applying with a polisher, use a finishing pad and polish at a low speed until you've achieved an even coat. Buff to a high gloss.

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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby Kidastra » Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:24 am

k, I'm sorry but as a member of the website you are copying this information from, I think it's only fair that you point them to that website instead of plagerising...just my 2 cents

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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Kidastra)

Postby Turbogst » Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:46 am

Kidastra wrote:k, I'm sorry but as a member of the website you are copying this information from, I think it's only fair that you point them to that website instead of plagerising...just my 2 cents
I'm just trying to get the info here. How you guys want me to finish this thing? I can put up a link if you all want. A lot of the info is coming from there im just editing a lil. Then i was going to add pictures of the pathfinder detail. And links and pictures to some of the tools used.. Now if I can copy a good bit of info im going too. Im also going to hit up more than one sight and put it all here so anyone from here has all the info they need. This is going to be a one stop all your info detail topic.. so..

IS THIS OK OR SHOULD I JUST STOP ADDING TO THIS THING YOU GUYS TELL ME?


Modified by Turbogst at 9:52 AM 9/24/2009

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Empty V
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Kidastra)

Postby Empty V » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:56 am

Kidastra wrote:k, I'm sorry but as a member of the website you are copying this information from, I think it's only fair that you point them to that website instead of plagerising...just my 2 cents
There's no point is having a post that says "Go to this site for all the info." I suggest continuing what you're doing and at the end inserting a list of references i.e. links from where you got your content.

Thanks for doing this thread I'm sure it will help many of us that really care for our vehicles. I'll link to it in our destined to never make it "How To" sticky.

Billy
Modified by Empty V at 2:41 PM 9/24/2009

Kidastra
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Empty V)

Postby Kidastra » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:39 am

sorry if came off really bad in my post, I do appreciate you taking the time to do this, I just recognized alot of it... I would love to see your write up on a complete detail of your path/qx4, and I am sure many members would also appreciate the help you can offer. again sorry for sounding like an a**,
Modified by Kidastra at 2:45 PM 9/24/2009

RedDawn289
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Kidastra)

Postby RedDawn289 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:20 am

Any advice on interior detailing? I have just been using armoural cleaning and the shine wipes. Any products that Are better then others.

Turbogst
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro (RedDawn289)

Postby Turbogst » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:06 am

Interior Cleaning and Conditioning How To's

Other people may admire the outside your vehicle, but you see the inside every time you drive. Depending on how you use your vehicle, the interior may need even more TLC than the paint! This guide will take you through the basics of interior care. After all, it’s what’s on the inside that counts!

The interior of your car is a relatively small space. Small messes have a huge impact! Keep your interior looking great with weekly quick-cleanings. A little time spent cleaning each weekend will keep your monthly super clean-up from taking up your whole Saturday!

Weekly Cleaning Regimen

1. Using a microfiber towel wipe down all solid surfaces. This microfiber cloth will catch the accumulated dust and minor spills that have occurred since the last detailing.



2. Floor mats probably bear the brunt of abuse during the week. Shake them out if they’re not too bad. go ahead a give them a quick vacuuming.

Unless you made a big mess that week, this is all you need to do on a weekly basis.

Monthly Cleaning Regimen

Give your interior a thorough cleaning about once a month. If you get into a habit, no spot or stain will go unnoticed.

1. If you own a air compressor you’ll find the clean-up a breeze. it easy to blow out and get into all those tight spots where only dirt and pocket change go.

2. Break out your Spot Eliminator and make carpet and upholstery stains vanish. Once the spot is dry, you can re-vacuum the treated area to fluff the carpet pile again.

3. Wipe down all vinyl, plastic and rubber surfaces with a damp Microfiber Detailing Cloth. You can use either plain water or a cleaner, like DP Total Interior Cleaner. Many rubber and vinyl protectants have some cleaning ability so, unless you have major dressing build-up or stains, you can go straight to the DP Interior Surface Protectant.

Warning! Avoid silicone-based protectants. Silicone leaves an oily residue and it attracts dust. Over time, it can turn your dashboard yellow. Stick to water-based protectants and you’ll never have to worry about a greasy, yellow interior.

4. Next clean the interior glass using a non-ammonia glass cleaner, like Stoner Invisible Glass Pump Spray. This cleaner is safe on tinted windows. Use a Microfiber Glass Towel to wipe the glass clean with no streaks or lint. To avoid overspray, mist the towel with the glass cleaner, rather than spraying it directly on the glass.

5. You will need aMini Two-Way Detailing Brush to get inside the vents and in the seams where otherwise only dust, lint and the stray coins will travel. These areas are often overlooked and difficult to clean, but it makes a big difference in the overall appearance of your vehicle’s interior.

6. Vinyl seats will respond best to Leather and Vinyl Cleaner for spills and dust. . UV exposure has disastrous effects on both leather and vinyl .

You can’t see them. You can’t escape them. Interior car odors are everywhere! It can feel like you’re trapped in a fish bowl of bad smells when you have an odor problem in your vehicle. Fortunately, there are some excellent products on the market to quickly and permanently eliminate odors.

Dakota Odor Bomb is fogger-type odor eliminator that eradicates odors in the air, on fabric, and on carpet. It is available in several scents to suit your taste. Neutral and Ocean are two of the most popular. Dakota Non-Smoke is an odor-eliminating spray that is particularly effective at removing the smell of cigarette smoke. Besides being highly effective in automobiles, Dakota products work well in the home, in RVs, and in hotel rooms.

Another excellent option is the Clean Air Genie Fogger. This one-time-use deodorizer permeates fabrics, air vents, and the air to destroy odors. It produces a temporary clean scent that gradually fades, but the foul smell never returns.

RedDawn289
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:32 am
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder SE

Re: How to Detail like a Pro (Turbogst)

Postby RedDawn289 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:59 am

That's great! Thanks for the tips, does anyone else have anything to add?

User avatar
rydebynite
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 5:39 pm
Car: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5l V-6
Location: Norfolk, Virginia

Re: Dangers of Pressure washing vehicle

Postby rydebynite » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:32 pm

http://www.tirew.com/warranty/_document ... overed.pdf

Scroll to slide # 12

Just a little something I stubbled upon containing some good info...!

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fueler
Posts: 3889
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:24 pm
Car: 2 Nissans, 2 BMW's
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Re: How to Detail like a Pro

Postby fueler » Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:17 pm

For interior touch ups, i use meguiars rich leather wipes

Image


I use it for EVERYTHING - not just leather.... i use it on door panels, dashboard, and all plastic panels. Hell i even use it on hoses and stuff under the hood once in a while! Not too shiny and has a nice smell to it.

Once or twice a year, i do a deep cleaning of the interior leather using PRO-S leather cleaner, followed up with PRO-S leather lotion. Both can be found at http://www.detailsupplyoutlet.com/ << im lucky to have such a supply near my house.


For tires - you already nailed it... dont use silicone based dressings... use water based.... i use "V6 dressing" from the website above.... doesnt attract as much dirt and washes right off when you want it to...

And for wax, I love Meguiars NXT..... i usually dont use "over the counter" products from chain stores but meguiars NXT is a great wax that even the pro's use.


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