How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (and other S13s)
Re: (slownslurious)
i actually have a manual harness. so my question is, since i dont have to splice ANYTHING, do you mean that the reverse, park safety, and my top will work just because i have a manual harness? if not can you tell me what more i must do if i have the manual harness?slownslurious wrote:94 240sx-you don't need the ECU the auto one works fine. You do not NEED the manual transmission harness, but it will make installation/wiring smoother (you won't have to splice anything). The reason so many people are talking about all this custom wiring is because they do not have the correct harness or chose to use a later transmission that isn't compatible with the s13 wiring harness. If you are pulling the transmission yourself and have the option to get the harness I would defintely get it, even if it meant paying extra, for all the wiring headaches it saves. But, if you just get the bare tranny you can follow the wiring instructions in this thread.
Re: (Hijacker)
do i need a backing/belhousing plate im not sure what you call it but it goes in between the engine and tranny
Hijacker, i don't know how much to thank you. I would have never figured all these steps out myself. Thank you and everyone else who have left their feedback and opinions on this thread.
The wiring was the most difficult part to understand but after reading it over and over again it started to make sense.
The wiring was the most difficult part to understand but after reading it over and over again it started to make sense.
Re: (numnutzzz)
Use a drill like this.
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whoflungpoo
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2003 Evolution VIII
Re: (numnutzzz)
don't take the dash out... if you do, you're going to be pissed when you realize that it clears up absolutely no room to work around.numnutzzz wrote:o yeah, i have a feeling i will be having a hard time drilling the hole for the clutch master cylinder. anyone has any special ideas on doing it without much headaches? my friend said to take the dash out but i don't think its a must do type of thing.
I just crawled under there with my trusty dremel and cut out the center, and then used 18v ryobi and drilled the bolt holes, stepping up from small to large bits.
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Snott Rocket
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Re: (numnutzzz)
Does anyone know if you have to use the dash harness to make the clutch interlock work, or can you wire it up separately? Thanks
Modified by Snott Rocket at 9:58 PM 1/12/2008
Modified by Snott Rocket at 9:58 PM 1/12/2008
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Snott Rocket
- Posts: 34
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- Car: 1991 240sx, 1986.5 Toyota Supra, 1974 Corvette, 1962 Rambler Classic 400
Re: (Hijacker)
OK, cool. I thought it was to keep the car from starting with the clutch engaged.
Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Hijacker)
Dang... Nicely done!
just finished my swap today. I'm calling it a night right now since it's almost 4am. i think i messed up on the wiring somewhere because it'll crank but wont turn over. I'll double check everything tomorrow. anyways could anyone tell me if i need those two plugs that i disconnect from my auto shifter? it's just hanging there right now.
pretty hard to explain this but the engine does crank but it sounds like a howling noise. like the starter is having a hard time spinning the flywheel. its my friends motor so i was there when it was in the car and it started fine before we yanked it out. i highly doubt its the starter. i have three batteries at home and tried them all so i doubt its the battery. i'll check the grounds when i'm off work. any tips are appreciated guys. and thanks again Hijacker.
Re: (essexconvert)
Bart, Essex,Thanks for your support of this forum & this swap. With the help of the tutorial, I completed the 5-speed swap on my vert a few months ago. The B/U lights, top, clutch safety, and cruise all work properly, but I still have the high idle issue at stop lights. I have searched the forum severa; times and can't seem to find a definitive answer. Can you help?
My method to try to clean up & simplify the wiring was as follows:
--I looped the neutral start safety circuit through the clutch safety switch directly. Works great and takes care of the "starting the car in gear" problem.
--I ran the Park/top circuit through the shifter neutral switch on the 5-speed so the tranny has to be in neutral for the top to operate.
--The DRIVE circuit for the ASCD runs through the 5th gear switch on the transmission so the CC only works with the car in 5th.
--I didn't use any relays as I thought wiring direct was the simplest route.
The only issue is the high idle condition when I'm stopped. What causes this and how do I make it go away?
Again, thanks for your support of this forum. Any help would be appreciated.
--DOMAR
My method to try to clean up & simplify the wiring was as follows:
--I looped the neutral start safety circuit through the clutch safety switch directly. Works great and takes care of the "starting the car in gear" problem.
--I ran the Park/top circuit through the shifter neutral switch on the 5-speed so the tranny has to be in neutral for the top to operate.
--The DRIVE circuit for the ASCD runs through the 5th gear switch on the transmission so the CC only works with the car in 5th.
--I didn't use any relays as I thought wiring direct was the simplest route.
The only issue is the high idle condition when I'm stopped. What causes this and how do I make it go away?
Again, thanks for your support of this forum. Any help would be appreciated.
--DOMAR
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Hijacker
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- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
JT, Have you tried adjusting your idle through the IACV located on the intake mani? Other than that, a leaky vacuum source can cause high idle.
Num, all I can think of is a bad starter. Is the start actually catching the flywheel and forcing the motor to try and crank? Or do you just hear a buzz when you turn the key? Since the starter is at least doing something, you have the wiring for the park/neutral safety switch done right. If that wasn't done, you wouldn't get so much as a relay click.
Num, all I can think of is a bad starter. Is the start actually catching the flywheel and forcing the motor to try and crank? Or do you just hear a buzz when you turn the key? Since the starter is at least doing something, you have the wiring for the park/neutral safety switch done right. If that wasn't done, you wouldn't get so much as a relay click.
wow pretty frustrating. i checked for spark and there's spark, i checked for fuel and theres crap load of unburn fuel in the exhaust. i seriously don't know what else to do now. this sucks. to put it to more detail, the starter spins the flywheel but it makes a loud howling noise and i also hear a high pitch screetching noise.
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Hijacker
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- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
This problem is going outside of the scope of this thread. I would recommend starting a "WTF Mate" thread in 240 Tech to get some replies. From the sounds of it, there's something wrong with the motor or the motor install (you make it sound as if you swapped the whole motor and trans together). Plus diagnosing a weird sound over the internet in text format is very difficult unfortunately
question: if i am swapping engine plus tranny together to convert auto to manual. do i need to use the manual engine harness or auto harness? because on a manual engine, the Throttle Position Sensor does not have a wire connector attached to it, but on the automatic, there's a wire connector connected to it.
Re: (Goldeneagle)
1. Is this true? I measured the cylinder and it's slightly smaller than 1 1/2, so I would think 1 1/2 inch hole saw will work. I need to know this ASAP.Goldeneagle wrote:If anyone is wondering what sized hole saw to get. Buy a bi-metal 1 3/4 inch hole saw.
I personally bought a 1 1/2 inch hole saw due to budget constraints and then used a dremel to remove what I couldn't with the hole saw.
I have some more questions:
2. I have B&M short shifter. Should I install short shifter before or after swap? I like to install it before, but I'm getting mixed responses. If I can use fill hole to fill the fluid, I can install it beforehand, right?
3. I'm going to use Redline MT-90 fluid. Should I add any additive in there? Like Lucas oil stabilizer and such?
4. I have ECU from manual s13. Should I just leave auto ECU or swap it since I have one? Or it doesn't matter what I do with ECU?
Thanks!!
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biggie
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Re: (94_240sx)
Its been a while since my old coupe was done and haven't gotten to the Vert yet but...94_240sx wrote:
1. Is this true? I measured the cylinder and it's slightly smaller than 1 1/2, so I would think 1 1/2 inch hole saw will work. I need to know this ASAP.
I have some more questions:
2. I have B&M short shifter. Should I install short shifter before or after swap? I like to install it before, but I'm getting mixed responses. If I can use fill hole to fill the fluid, I can install it beforehand, right?
3. I'm going to use Redline MT-90 fluid. Should I add any additive in there? Like Lucas oil stabilizer and such?
4. I have ECU from manual s13. Should I just leave auto ECU or swap it since I have one? Or it doesn't matter what I do with ECU?
Thanks!!
1. Not sure2. I'd install it before the tranny goes in if possible, depends on your installing situation. If you have the room to install the tranny with the shifter on it, then install it first.3. MT-90 by itself has worked well for me.4. Can't remember exactly, but I'd think you have to switch the harness to a manual harness to use the S13 manual ecu. If you have it and are able to I would use the manual S13 ECU, the AT one did bug me a little with the idling.
Re: (biggie)
Thanks, biggie!biggie wrote:
Its been a while since my old coupe was done and haven't gotten to the Vert yet but...
1. Not sure2. I'd install it before the tranny goes in if possible, depends on your installing situation. If you have the room to install the tranny with the shifter on it, then install it first.3. MT-90 by itself has worked well for me.4. Can't remember exactly, but I'd think you have to switch the harness to a manual harness to use the S13 manual ecu. If you have it and are able to I would use the manual S13 ECU, the AT one did bug me a little with the idling.
1. I'm drilling the hole tonight, so I need to know. Someone said 1 1/2 and someone else said 1 3/4, so... Clutch mounting bolt holes are 3/8.2. I guess I'll install it afterward. I think it's going to be easier that way.3. Got it. MT-90, but I saw someone mentioned about adding Lucas oil stabilizer somewhere.4. It's a direct swap without any modification as far as I know, so I'll just plug it in then. Good thing that I got it with a tranny just in case.
Re:
I have a question about speed sensor. Are s14 and s13 speed sensors interchangeable? Will it plug into the hole without any problem? I'm trying to find s13 speed sensor for my s14 transmission and want to make sure it'll work. I have s13 and tranny is from s14.
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