How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (and other S13s)

Post by **Biscuits** » Thu May 17, 2007 2:08 pm

ok Ive been working on this for the last 2 weeks, and it's getting damn frustrating!! the auto pilot bearing... how in the holy hell do you remove that. I went and bought a pilot bearing puller, and the teeth on it are too big to grab onto the inside of the bearing, is there another way or should I return this one and try to find another one that works.

and the harness, i got the 5 speed harness when I pulled the tranny, pulled everything apart and tried to slim it down a little. I have 3 green wires going from the middle plug next to the relay box to the 3 sensors on the manual tranny, but then I have a yellow one going from the last sensor, the neutral switch, to a random plug that I goes nowhere. can I just cut this wire off and hook it all up, or is this the wire that needs to be spliced in with the auto neutral safety switch? damn I was really hopping to be finished with this by saturday but this **** is hangin me up. someone, please, help!

Post by **ncline** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:11 am

Hydrolics man, I had this problem on a little nissan truck and the only way I got it out was to fill the hole with grease and get a socket that just barely fit so that the grease will not escape between the bearing and the socket, put an extention in it so the grease won't come through the middle and hammer the crap out of it. It took a while but eventually came right out with a splat of grease but I was glad to clean it up.

Nathan

Post by **Biscuits** » Fri May 18, 2007 2:38 pm

yeah I just went and rented a slide hammer and PB puller and the god damn puller broke on me when I was tightening it up.

got the harness worked out though, but it looks like it's to the store for me to get some grease.

*sigh* whatever, this **** needs to get done.

Post by **Biscuits** » Fri May 18, 2007 2:58 pm

and I might as well help with what i can while I'm here

white: it sounds to me like the pipe you removed was an emissions thing, I don't know what it is called but it bassicly sends exaust fumes back into the engine to reburn. I would say put it back on and make sure it's sealed properly.

and frank, you don't need the 5 speed harness, you can use the connectors off the manual tranny and just splice them to the proper wires in the relay box.I only used it cause it was free, I made it all pretty blue too

Post by **white91240** » Sat May 19, 2007 10:42 am

yea thanks for the help and everything but what happens when u get new headers u cant put that little thing back on and it think im gonna have to get a new exaust because of the cad converter is cloged i dont know i guess im gonna just put it in the shop after the exaust

Post by **white91240** » Sat May 19, 2007 10:45 am

94 do u think u can help me on what the pipe is that runs from the back of the engine to a little black box and pipes to the headers?

Post by **Biscuits** » Sat May 19, 2007 4:13 pm

emissions **** man, I would recommend leaving it on.. err.. putting it back on. get someone to drill a hole in the headers or something.
Modified by Biscuits at 7:19 AM 5/20/2007

Post by **crazy drifter** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:59 am

what color are the 2 wires i need to jumper and what exactly does jumper mean anyway

Post by **o_alcha3** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:37 pm

what does the inhibitor switch do?

Post by **Hijacker** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 4:53 am

crazy drifter wrote:what color are the 2 wires i need to jumper and what exactly does jumper mean anyway

For which step? There are a couple of wires that need to be jumped. And by jumper, I mean you connect the two together directly.

o_alcha3 wrote:what does the inhibitor switch do?

The inhibitor switch is a device on the side of the AT trans. It reports to the auto trans control unit what gear the trans is in. You have to trick the ATCU into thinking it's in drive for the top to work, which is why I have you splice the wires together on the backside of the inhibitor switch's chassis plug.

Post by **alex4** » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:12 pm

Alrighty...hopefully I'm going to get a 5 spd swap on my 93 hatchback. I've found a guy on ebay who will sell me the whole thing used minus the tranny for $350. I emailed him the list from the first page here, and he said all of that is included except the brake pedal. Does that sound reasonable, or am I getting scammed? He has 100% positive ratings from 135 feedbacks.From a couple people I've heard you can just saw off the long part of the brake pedal to have room for the clutch- is that true?Next, I noticed later that the wiring harness and ECU is not on that list. He didn't mention that, but he did say that everything needed is included, and he seems to know what he's talking about- he said he's done 4 5spd swaps. I've heard from a couple people that you need a wiring harness, ECU, and speed sensor from a matching S13 that's a 5spd. Is that true?Any input appreciated!Thanks!

P.S. I plan on having a transmission shop do this, I'm not that good with cars myself. So anything that they'd already have or would replace (for cheap), take that into account and mention it to me also...

Post by **RFcool** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 8:36 pm

i wanted to say thanks to this write up. i just swapped everything and i am turboing my car at the same time. The car started but i didnt let it run long until everything is buttoned up properly. All lights work and reverse lights come on and top goes up. But problem im running into now is that my windows wont go up except for the drivers window. They all worked prior to the swap any ideas?

Post by **cmkelly** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:58 am

Try the lock/unlock window button on the driver's side power window switch area

Post by **RFcool** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:24 am

tried that already. lol. its sad but there are people out there that wouldnt check that.

Post by **numnutzzz** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:07 pm

hey guys

first of all, great thread. second of all, i was wondering about the auto ecu. i heard that from a auto to manual swap, a check engine light will lite up. therefore you would need a manual ecu when u go smog it correct?

Post by **slidindownhill** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:11 am

great write up

Post by **Goldeneagle** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:27 pm

If anyone is wondering what sized hole saw to get. Buy a bi-metal 1 3/4 inch hole saw.

I personally bought a 1 1/2 inch hole saw due to budget constraints and then used a dremel to remove what I couldn't with the hole saw.

Post by **tigwebu** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 7:53 pm

I did the 5sp swap and I can not get the car to crank over or even the fuel pump to prime. I was wondering if this wire I cut from the automatic trans has something to do with it?

it's the part circled in red

Post by **whoflungpoo** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:03 am

if you used the splicing method instead of the manual tranny harness, you may have missed the connector that you have to loop back into itself.

IIRC it's the park position sensor. basically, when it was auto it wouldn't let it it start unless it was in park... well you don't have park anymore

Post by **Hijacker** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:21 am

That cable looks like a big grounding cable for something. I agree with Poo that you probably missed jumping the park/nutral safety switch. It's a two prong plug near the bottom of the fuse box.

Post by **whoflungpoo** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:01 am

bart,

O forgot to address what that cable was, I believe it looks like it's the harness that comes out of the gear selection sensor. it looks like the arm for it right there, so I would assume it would be the harness for it.

either way, I cut it off when I was doing my S14 A2M swap (or the "Hardy Special" as my friends call it) and had no ill effects.

Post by **tigwebu** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:39 pm

I've spliced the two wires together to have the car believe it was neutral. But still nothing, so I thought it had something to do with the wire from the auto trans.

Post by **crisj5** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:20 pm

did anyone get the cruise control to work wit there 5sp yet i can figure it out etheir..

Post by **Koguchi** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:44 am

Does anyone know if a SOHC tranny will fit on a DOHC motor? I'll be doing the swap soon, and thought I should ask before I went out and bought it.

Post by **whoflungpoo** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:18 am

yes, it will fit.

I used on on my S14

Post by **Hijacker** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:59 am

crisj5 wrote:did anyone get the cruise control to work wit there 5sp yet i can figure it out etheir..

It's been done. Search the archived content for the convertible forum and you'll find it. I need to update a better way to do wiring in the vert so you can retain both cruise and the top without needing extra switches. My old method tricks the ATCU into park, but it won't let cruise work. Cruise requires the ATCU to think you're in drive. The ATCU can only be tricked into one position, so you have to install a switch that toggles drive and park.

A better way to do it is the wire the top up/down switch at the switch and then wire drive at the inhibitor plug. I'll be doing a rewrite of the first post soon to incorporate that.

Post by **essexconvert** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:42 pm

This is how I got my cruise and top to work. If it helps any.zerothread?id=285896

Post by **Hijacker** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:57 am

Don't take this the wrong way, essex, but using the clutch as a relay activator seems a bit clunky to me.

A few years ago, someone had used my top wiring and added an underhood toggle switch to trick the ATCU into either park or drive depending on the situation.

I hated that solution.

It was brought to my attention a few years ago that you could wire the top circuit at the up/down switch on the gauge cluster shroud. Combine that with wiring the drive circuit at the inhibitor plug and you have a functioning top AND cruise without needing to use weird relasy setups or toggle switches.

My goal in auto wiring is to make functionality as simple as I can. If I can aviod messy user interface switches, I prefer to go that route.

Post by **essexconvert** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:40 pm

No problem, just thought I would offer. I used the existing clutch switch to ground a relay, thought it was pretty simple. I also used that clutch switch to ground another relay to the starter wire so that you cant start it without the clutch pedal pushed in. These are the same relays used in most car alarms, so I guess they're pretty reliable. I really appreciate your write up on the swap it helped me out alot, Im just trying to return the favor. Thanks again-- Jason

PROS:Top worksCruise worksNo high idle at redlightsNo chance of starting it in gear

CONS:"using the clutch as a relay activator seems a bit clunky "" make functionality as simple as I can"

Post by **Nissan240sx4life** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:07 pm

Thank you who ever made this!!! Im pulling out my engine and tranny tomorrow in my car. and swaping in a 5spd.

How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (and other S13s)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (FrankT)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Biscuits)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (ncline)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Biscuits)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Biscuits)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (94_240sx)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (white91240)

Re: (o_alcha3)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (tenkawa_akito)

Re: (tenkawa_akito)

Re: (RFcool)

Re: (cmkelly)

Re: (slidindownhill)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Hijacker)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (crisj5)

Re: How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (Hijacker)

Re: (Hijacker)

Re: (essexconvert)

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