Hijacker's Money-Ain't-No-Thing Build

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Hijacker
Posts: 15759
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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NukeKS14 wrote:
Thu Dec 17, 2020 7:20 am
From my experience, koyo, timken, skf, oem are all solid choices. Availability and maybe price? I find all those options to be on a level playing field as far as quality goes. Koyo actually makes a lot of the OEM branded bearings for Nissan. Timken I think does too.
Timken definitely supplies OEMs. I pulled Timken from my HLSD pinion, so I ordered Timken to press back in. They're always a solid bearing choice.

And as far as price and availability goes, I'm ordering timing chain stuff from Nissan soon, so I'll just slap the TO bearing and pilot bushing in with the order


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float_6969
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Threads like this remind me to stop being a lazy a** and take pics when I work on the car. Thanks for the updates!

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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float_6969 wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 7:51 am
Threads like this remind me to stop being a lazy a** and take pics when I work on the car. Thanks for the updates!
One of these days I’ll start doing actual work instead of stockpiling parts!

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float_6969
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Hijacker wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 3:20 pm
One of these days I’ll start doing actual work instead of stockpiling parts!
I'm very guilty of this as well....

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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Hooray! Getting some work done for once. I tore down the block to get things ready for powder coat, and to do an inspection on the outgoing parts. I pulled the timing assembly, oil pans, and the pistons.

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-Cylinder 1

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-Cylinder 2

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-Cylinder 3

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-Cylinder 4

Overall,the cylinders are in great shape other than a little carbon buildup on the top ring.

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-Pistons and rods look okay, but there's some additional issues with them

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-Pistons 1 and 2

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-Pistons 3 and 4

There's the signs of abuse on the exhaust side of each piston crown. Likely someone did try to crank a T28 up past the factory fuel management limits at some point. Thankfully this seems to be the limit of damage.

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-Each connecting rod also had what looked like the beginnings of bearing failure. There's no damage on the crank shaft, but I'll wait for the machine shop to give me the final word on that. What I'm hoping here is that the years of the motor sitting caused this to happen. The oil would have been squished from between the crank and bearing, and then spinning by hand could have started to wipe the bearing.

I also assembled the turbo and did a quick test fit with the super made manifold. Everything should line up very nicely.

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The T28 oil return tube lines up REALLY well with the return bung on the block.

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I wasn't expecting much here. This is the factory wastegate actuator from the S15 T28 I had. It's obviously too long, and the Garrett housing lacks the mounting points of the OEM turbo. I'll order one of them fancy mounting brackets and an aftermarket actuator.

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-Boxed up all of the accessories and covers and s***

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-All of the brackets I want to get cleaned up and powder coated

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-There used to be a time where I could shove all of the hardware into a couple of coffee cans. One for exterior bolts, and one for interior bolts. And then I could put the motor back together without any leftover hardware. Given how long this project has taken to get to this point, I'm not taking any chances. These are all bagged and tagged.

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-The last thing I'm working on right now is getting set up to clean and re-zinc the factory hardware. I got the idea from Steve Richardson of SR Autobody. He and his dad do some amazing Skyline rebuilds and refinishing the hardware just makes everything look that much better.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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So do you have a giant list of all the s*** left to do, or are you just kinda winging it?

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Mon Dec 28, 2020 9:05 am
So do you have a giant list of all the s*** left to do, or are you just kinda winging it?
A little of column A. A little of column B.

I've been keeping a spreadsheet for years to track parts to buy/bought. But I've never really had a true to do list. At some point, I'll get to a moment where I've bought enough stuff to kick over to a to do list to track what has and hasn't been done.

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Hijacker
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Got a few more things in the mail this past week. I've been keeping an eye on parts swap pages on Facebook, and snagged a used ignitor and a NIB water pump

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To be on the safe side with the ignitor, I went ahead and tested it. I can't slap it on my S13 SR to see if it runs because I use an ignitor from a Pulsar NX, so I had to test it by the book. Everything tested fine with it.

I'd also like to find an S14 ignitor mounting plate, but I may settle for making a custom bracket.

But what came as a super special surprise to me was in the form of an email from a coworker of mine. He's been in Nissans for a long while and used to have an S13 years ago. He's currently working on an S14, but has been trying to sell off some of his old S13 gear that's still sitting around. He offered up a Nismo 80mm stainless steel exhaust and a Greddy downpipe to match. I would have been crazy NOT to jump on it. The exhaust has a few bang ups on it but is on overall good shape. I'm half tempted to yank my 2.5" BRM exhaust to run this for the time being.

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-Here's the worst of the bang ups. Not sure if I can pop it back out, and I don't think anyone would notice anyways

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-I was expecting baffles, and was surprised to see it's a straight through. The videos I've seen with people running these don't sound like straight through muffles

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float_6969
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Dude. That exhaust is awesome!!!

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m tr4nch
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nice man, finally some action! lol. score on that exhaust!

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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m tr4nch wrote:
Fri Jan 01, 2021 11:16 am
nice man, finally some action! lol. score on that exhaust!
I wanna see if I can hammer a few of the dents out, but otherwise it's in preem shape and I was DEFINITELY not expecting to get something so rare for this build.

A few more nit picky stuff came in, in the past few weeks.

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-New wiper switch to replace my old faded one. I'm still on the lookout for a new in box factory headlight switch to replace my old faded one as well.

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-New exhaust hardware for the head

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-New fuel tank straps. My old ones aren't in bad shape, but I figure while I got the tank out, might as well put new straps in as well

I'm starting to zero in on a decent machine shop in my area, so hopefully I can start on slapping the motor back together sooner than later.

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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Got a little project almost finished today. I've seen this guy pop up on one of my Facebook parts pages selling some cup holder deals that replaces the ash tray. So I figured, why not. They only cost $25 and shipping from Australia. The cup holder clips into the center console instead of floating like some other designs, however the product came in a raw 3D printed form, and his print wasn't very good to begin with. Lots of filament delaminating, and he didn't print it with the face on the bed, so the face has a lot of finishing work required. I was a bit miffed, since it was advertised as being a finished piece, but I understand the dude's doing this as a side hustle. It just would have been nice for a heads up before smashing the order button.

Anyways, I've been building movie prop replicas for the past couple of years and doing some body work on my truck, so I figured this wouldn't take too much to make look less like a**.

On to how to polish a turd.

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As you can see, very rough. This was gonna take a lot of cleaning up. With 3D printed prop parts, a lot of times you can sand them smooth and then wetsand the scratches out to get a good surface finish. However, the print job on this wasn't that great. You'll see in some of the later pictures.

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Also, it sat high. It contacted the mounting bolt for the e-brake assembly. So I had to cut the cup down by about 3/4" to get it to fit.

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The areas I had to remove to get the piece to sit in the console.

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I chucked up my orbital palm sander with some 220 grit and got to work. The ridges were sanded down, but this is where things fell off the rails a bit.

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The extrude head wasn't applying enough heat, or it was moving too fast, so there were sections that had not fused properly. Sanding in this corner exposed a void. The best solution at this point was to get my Bondo skim coat out and start filling holes.

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Sanded back to flat, and then test fitting the clearance of the e-brake mount.

By this point, I knew I needed a base in the cup area. There was no point in seeing through the trans tunnel. I found a quart sized mixing cup had a perfect contour and matched up really close to the diameter of the opening.

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I cut the bottom out of one, traced the circumference of the opening and then cut slits to let me fold up the flaps of the outer diameter. This would give me more surface area to epoxy.

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The cup bottom epoxied in place with JB Weld Plasticweld. It was still flimsy, though.

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So I plugged up the leak through holes, got it level, and then poured in some vulcanizing plastic resin to reinforce and seal the bottom.

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I had this idea when I first ordered it that the SILVIA logo should light up. There's a light for the ashtray after all. So it would be cool to use that circuit here. I grabbed my dremel and nibbled the back of the SILVIA logo until it was thin enough to push out and then cleaned up the remaining with a utility knife.

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Then it got a few coats of plastic bond primer. I had to add some more skim coat to the voids in the corner as they showed through on the primer.

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After a few coats of flat black and some flat clear, I made a little reservoir for the plastic resin and then poured it in through the top. I added a bit too much to the VIA part of the logo and not enough to the SIL, but it still looks okay from quite a few feet away.

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And here's testing the back lighting with a flash light. A few LEDs wired up underneath it should look perfectly fine.

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And last but not least, it holds a can of soda well enough.

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float_6969
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Well damn. I'm feeling lazy about my S14 one. I also must have bought it from a different seller. I never saw any option for the Silva logo. But mine does have the same poor surface finish. Mine did fit pretty decently. One corner is just a smidge high. I might have to clean mine up a bit now that I've seen you can just sand it smooth.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Hey what are you doing with your windshield wiper switch assembly? Mine is persnickety from time to time.

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 3:31 pm
Hey what are you doing with your windshield wiper switch assembly? Mine is persnickety from time to time.
I'll mail you the old one once I find a headlight switch and swap out both of the stalks.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Word. Or if that takes long enough, just hold on to it til Carlisle haha.

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hiimelvin
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX Hatch
2017 Mazda 3 GT Hatch
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If you're looking for a new headlight switch you can buy them from Standard Motor on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-P ... B000C7XVES

I have one on my S13 and the fit/function are perfect.

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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hiimelvin wrote:
Wed Feb 03, 2021 8:00 am
If you're looking for a new headlight switch you can buy them from Standard Motor on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-P ... B000C7XVES

I have one on my S13 and the fit/function are perfect.
I'm holding out for a factory unit right now. I'll settle on a Standard unit if I can't find a NIB Nissan unit.

I lucked on a used Tomei O2 turbo outlet. This will pair well with the Greddy downpipe I have!

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I've been debating whether or not to have the header, turbine housing, and O2 outlet swain coated. Now that I have the Tomei unit, I'm REALLY considering it now.

Another little thing I've been wanting to do for as long as I've had the Momo wheel installed was replace the Momo horn button with one that said Silvia. Nobody made one for the longest time, and I've been super lazy about starting that project for years. Back in December, I was doing some web surfing and came across RevLimiter.net, and lo and behold, they had Silvia horn buttons designed for Momo style wheels!

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It's a dumb little thing, I know. But man does it make me happy!

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float_6969
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Tomie makes such quality stuff. I'm always impressed by them. And I dig the Silva button touch as well. I love small little things like that.

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Hijacker
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Oh hey. It's been a hot minute. Again. I guess a little after the last time I posted, I was busy working on my pick up truck trying to get it fixed up to be a reliable daily and take care of a bunch of rust issues with it. So the S13 kind of got back burnered. I literally hadn't driven it since June of 2021 until last month. Once the truck was out of paint and body, it was just easier to drive that around rather than do the car shuffle to get the S13 out of the garage. Anyways, fast forward to last month and I made the decision to do something. Anything. To the car, and that kind of lit a fire to get back to work.

I still have yet to send the motor off for cleaning and machining, but I've got the last few bits I needed of the bottom end to send it off once I find a shop I can trust.

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This was the thing I did. I was tired of seeing the hood up in the loft, so I pulled it down when I was cleaning and rearranging the garage and decided to install it. It's weird how one simple thing can get motivation going again

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I also swapped the factory hood insulation over. +1 for Seibon fit and finish that the factory insulation and seals can go right in place

I had it in my mind that I would do this huge big rebuild so it would all be done at once and the car would go through this amazing transformation. All that ended up doing was delivering me a bunch of boxes that have sat on the shelves for a decade

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Another thing I could have done eons ago: install the GKTech reservoir. My original was toast

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I hadn't even ordered a new timing chain kit for the S14 SR. That's now been changed. I also picked up a new oil dipstick since the one on the S14 SR was melted

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The SR never came with a coil pack cover. This Tomei unit ended up being cheaper than a used factory unit. I think with all the Tomei top end parts I'm using, I can allow myself a bit of dress up

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I had planned on going Cosworth again, but I ended up pulling the trigger on an Apex'i headgasket instead

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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I also managed to score a NIB headlight switch to replace my baked original

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Convertibles get it the worst for these. Decades of sun exposure killed these 10 years ago. No amount of chemical treatment has been able to restore them

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Off came the old ones

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And now the interior started to feel better. I'll likely try to take my old ones, tear them down, repaint them, and then get some transfers from Restomod Ninja to make them like new again and shelve them as spares.

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Another eyesore has been this passenger seat. I picked up these S14 seats in 2005 IIRC and they've served me well. But they've seen better days

The plan was always to have a pair of Recaros

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So I ordered a new Bride MO Type rail for the passenger side

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And slapped in a new Speed. The only thing is that Recaro no longer offers the Speed in black Avus like my driver seat, so this one is in black Nardo. But I think I may end up redoing my door cards and back interior panels with this fabric (or similar)

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I also replaced my leather Nismo shifter with a new one. I'll get the old one recovered and hold on to it as a spare. This new one is either a knockoff or Nismo changed their processes at some point between 2005 and whenever they discontinued the knob. The logo is different, the grain isn't as heavy, and the stitching isn't a baseball style stitch. I was also gifted a JDM DIN cup holder. I no longer fear having drinks in my car! It's so weird :o

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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So papasmurf tagged me on Facebook about doing LEDs for my HVAC unit. So this lead me on a rabbit hole of doing LEDs all over the f*** place. I didn't realize that the control switches on the dash had backlights. In the 20 years I've had this car, they've never lit up.

After a bunch of research, I found that Superbright LED sells a T-1 Neo-wedge LED replacement called the NEO-x.

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As you can see, the base of the NEO-x is the same as the original bulb. In cases like this, it's a simple twist the old one out and pop the new one in. Test it to make sure you have it in the right polarity and move on. The only problem here is that only the pop up switch uses a Neo-wedge style bulb.

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The other switches use something similar to this. It's a T-1 bulb that's wrapped up by a rubber base. What I decided to do here was take the NEO-x and remove the LED from it (the things are only $3. I couldn't make them any cheaper if I wanted). You have to be careful popping the switches open as there are lots of little springs and ball bearings that can go flying

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The LED removed from its base. Superbright already has a dropping resistor AND a polarity blocking diode in place. All of this to run the surface mounted LED. Also, by going this route, I'm assured that all of my switches will have the same lumen throughput

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The first one of these was a bit rough, but after some practice, I had it down to a science on getting the LED leads wrapped up into the rubber base.

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The quickest way to test was to plug the switch back in and then turn on the lights. This one was for the hazard switch

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This is the first time in over 20 years that the control switches were all illuminated at the same time

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In my fever pitch switch tinkering, I managed to snag a factory Silvia fog light button. I've been using the pop up switch as my fog light switch, but now I can finally remove the useless cruise control switch and slap this bad boy in. I have some big wiring plans I'm laying out right now, so this switch will come into play in the future once it's time to tear the car down for paint and I have the opportunity to do some significant wiring work

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I also swapped out all of the interior lights for LEDs. It's super a** bright in there now :O

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While I was at it, the trunk light has been out for forever (probably 10-13 years?) I thought it was a burnt out bulb, but it turns out that it was the trunk light switch. I don't know where it is on the coupe, but Nissan or ASC put it behind the accordion hinge which necessitated removing half the trunk support. The space connector lead had broken off and wasn't able to complete the circuit when the trunk was open

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I crimped a new terminal on and put the switch back in place

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And now I have a trunk light again

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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And still not done with weird little s***

I've had a set of S15/G35/Z33 pedal covers lying around for a while. The brake pedal is different enough on the S13 that the cover won't fit directly on (i have a manual pedal in my car, but it clearly was too wide). I tried cutting it down in the car to make the cover fit on, but it was too dicey doing all that grinding and cutting while the pedal was mounted. A handful of years ago, I was at the junk yard and snagged the manual brake pedal and bracket from a junked hatch (someone had already claimed the clutch pedal). I decided to tear it down and get the pedal worked down to allow the cover to fit on it. Then I'll pull the pedal I have in the car and put this one in.

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I think i ended up cutting down like 1/8" off each side and had to square it up more (the factory design has it really wide at the top)

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I tore the pedal down and ordered new bushings. I also painted the bracket and pedal to protect them from future rusting

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I also mimiced the factory stamp on the bracket (honestly not sure what the alpha designator is for, but mine had an F, so I made an F to match and painted it on)

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Painted, rebushed, new stop pads, and mounted the pedal pad

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Fully assembled and ready to go

I'll need to pull the clutch pedal again. all of the little bushings that keep the spring from squeaking and tearing up the pedal have disintegrated. I have new ones on the shelf now, so I'll do a tear down and repaint/rebuild it in the near future

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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And the last thing that had been keeping me from driving and enjoying the car.

Right before I parked it in 2021, the rear passenger quarter window started struggling to roll up when the top was up. To get the window up, i would have to do either put the top in manual mode, raise the window, and then lower the top onto the window carefully, or I would end up doing this dance of raising the top slightly, raising the window, raise the top more (which causes the window to go down), and then raise the window again. Keep alternating until both are up. Obviously a pain in the a**

I thought the motor was going out, so I found a guy parting his convertible and bought the rear windows, regulators, and motors. Last month, I started researching if anyone made replacement guides (old school vert owners here have used skate bearings IIRC). I ended up finding a guy on Facebook that's located in Maryland. He 3D prints new guides out of ABS plastic

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So I pulled the window and low and behold it was a busted window guide. It had gotten so jammed up on that guide that the whole window couldn't move. Service manual has you lower the window by hand after disconnecting the motor arm, and it was jammed up that I couldn't lower it. I had to get creative in disassembling the car to get it out without breaking the window.

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I cleaned up the guide tracks, dremeled the old plastic guides off, and then installed the new ones. The old ones are placed on their studs prior to the stud being installed. The stud is then riveted in place to the guide plate. The only way to remove is to cut them out. The replacements are made in halves that are bolted together. I put a little loctite on them to make sure they don't back out.

I lubed up the tracks and reinstalled the window. It rolls up perfectly. I didn't have to replace the motor. However, the driver side was a different story (and no pictures). All three guides were destroyed, but it never jammed up when rolling. I replaced the guides and the motor started to drag. I swapped that motor out for one of my spares and now it works fine

Now that the windows work again, I feel more comfortable driving the car around again

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Solid progress!

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float_6969
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Hell. Yes. Thanks for the update and motivation to turn some wrenches on mine!

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splintercell
Posts: 1742
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 1:28 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx HB
1991 Nissan Silvia
Location: Virginia

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Damn man, glad you are still around keeping these old Nissans alive! I haven't been on NICO in forever.


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