I've left the battery connected and actually drove it around for a while and as long as its warmed all the way up its BEAST. I forgot the timing light at work over the weekend so i havent advanced a touch. I think i just didnt let it warm up...

I forgot to connect the friken ground to my fans for the *2nd time other day 10 min test drive get out car. (WHATS THAT BOILING....) yep so i guess ill change oil again..... and swap over to the "mobil 1" 8$ a qrt. blows.

Anyone know a good dyno near clarksville TN ? That would let me mess with my timing between pulls even? I've never brought a car to a dyno not shur how it all goes, but id like to find out what she puts down now before i change stuff up.

hyperactive motorsports in winchester/decherd tn

Drove it around for 2 days parked it for couple hours. Hope in with the dad to do some pulls and show it off..... NO Start

Its always somthing i swear def. gonna get a better donor for the next build. I started going through the schematics for the ignition- relay, fuses, inline fuse wtf nissan for real.
Push button rigged start it is> Im really not a fan of nissan wiring or at least their schematics. Maybe nissan dealer schematics are better than alldata. I work at a subie dealer i really need to utilize and just break down and buy a scooby. Its so nice have techlines and dealer everytihng im spoiled. I feel like im in the stone age working on nissans.

Went to track today 9.55 68.4mph in the 1/8 , 1.46 reaction....., 2.26 60ft, 6.2 330ft

I dont know how i pulled that with the reaction but looking pretty good neck and neck with brothers stock 2001 s2000!!!!

I guess next step is gonna be wait till i get wideband, fuel pressure gauge, Coolant temp for shur. Then crank it up to 9psi not past that tho it spikes to 9 then stabalize at 7 so i figure its holdin fine pulls HARD during the spike.

Ima try and loose another 100 pounds too weighin in right around 2400lbs.

Getting some FALKIN street radials for free tomarrow!!!!!

Trying to break that 9 might have to get that wet 50 shot before that happens.

dnot push to hard it might bite back.

Has anyone fine tuned with an fmu? Where you install a check valve and needle valve to bleed air essentially to turn down fuel pressure. Ill be using a wideband of course I just dont know why more people dont do it--- why buy a fmu recalibration kit???

I also thought why not have some kind of solenoid to cut boost signal to fmu at say 9 psi so fuel pressure wouldnt get rediculous. I would think you would be able to go up a few more pounds of boost before you run out of fuel.? Say you were at 11:1 at 9psi then cut fmu then 12:1--10 13:1 11 14:1 12 ??? Maybe even use a nitrous fuel solenoid to kick in with a micro switch at same time? risky..... just thinking out loud probly a very bad solution and/or idea.


I think im just going to get a wet 50 shot. That would probly get satify for now i guess.

i dont thing i would run nos on a stock motor that are ready has a power adder on it like turbo. idk my .02 did you balance the lower end when you rebulit it?

and boom goes the dynamite...

ive used nitrous with boost before but its tricky and takes some electronics+time. idk why you cant get under a 9 tho. i ran an 8.81 with my ca stock 1/8mi, it came with a red top t25 when i got the engine. my best pass on Hoosier slicks with vlsd was 7.83 with red top t25, fmic, full 3" ex, safc1 and n60 maf swap with HKS EVC6 on 15psi

If you do add nitrous, retard your base timing 2 degree's per 50 shot and I'm assuming you're talking about a wet kit. Nitrous is awesome, but it's like crack so be careful. Not something I'd do unless you've got everything fixed and have no knock at all.

As far as adding a solenoid or bleeder goes, you can definitely do either. It has been done many times in the past and you're correct about how your fuel map leans out after you stop adding the fuel pressure. However, this isn't something I'd recommend for you. Aren't you getting knock already? Leaning out the AFR's on a knock prone motor falls right into the stupid category imho.

WD

in the passed i have know people to add it to there na cars an some of them where bulit, but it kills the motor too fast. if i where hookn it up i would bake it a 20 shot a use in in between gears to get rid of lag, but you have a t25 so there should be know lag in my car i get full boost at like 2.5k. But to each his own, it would suck to blow it up with in the first 5000 miles.lol ps. do you harve arp head an mian bolts in, you should for nos.

lmao I got knock so I am gonna add some nitrous and cut fuel.. Say it out loud, does it sound stupid to you?

I should have brought you guys up to speed first im not that dumb comon.

* I pulled out the old stocker fuel pump and found the short feed portion of hose was split in middle. Replaced hose and put in my walbro 255. I also fixed the couplers blowing off.
_Now it runs great i drive it everyday pulls really hard no knocking/pinging/or even backfiring. I even went and did a little drifting and she holds up great now has around 25-- 1/8 mile passes on it and a few of smoky joyful burnouts. Stock clutch holding up pretty good happy about that.

Really the only thing that i cant figure out is that when i hit gas initially every gear it pulls so HARD. Boost spikes to 9psi but as soon as the wastegate opens and it stabalize at 7 it just kinda get louder no faster...... I had a rb20det and it would just level off when boost stabalized. I assume it has to do with ignition timing that its not ideal in relation to fuel pressure or something. Thats why ive been looking into manual boost controller to just set it at 9psi?


I have a bone stock never been opened ka24de with 145k on it. Nitrous is the same juju as boost in fact i read so much crap about it i shoulda just went nitrous like WD said for drag. <<< All time i spent on turbo id have a BEAST bottle baby. next time)

Bravo, got to give props to someone who just wants to be creative. I've been reading this the whole time but I haven't had anything to say until now. Pat on the back for making it happen even though its not pretty. Some can't make it this far with a full kit, and you used what you had available so that's saying something in it self. Makes you feel good to say "Don't H8, Appreciate"

I am glad another kat is on the street but, he did take a simple t25 setup and make it way more complex than it needed to be..

I still can't believe he got it to work, but I gotta give credit where credit is due

i knew it would work you can boilt a turbo on to anything. i was more thinkn it wouldnt run right or have a ton of boost leaks

Still running like a champ thinking about swappin back to my original plan rb25 series2 t3 but not for a while. Finishing buddies z28 clutch,cam,valve train install for another month or so. I guess I'll start a part 2 thread if I don't sell it. Def needs some uprades mounts, clutch,rewire whole car,wideband,etc,etc,etc....Thanks for the tips guys looking back I def. Agree. Not the easy way!!!! Honestly I'll probably never " build another turbo kit at least without a budget. < I'll end with that

Cheers.

Special thanks to 240man and WD

prefab kits are the best way lol and easy the way you did it kinda took the bolt on part out of a bolt on upgrade. lol

I'm glad you got her running fairly reliably. Not giving up is crucial when you have no budget.

I found a hole the size of my pinky before the turbo. It has been there the WHOLE TIME........

Treadstone manifold block off plate - copper gasket - messed up on first drilling of holes - im retarted thought copper gasket would block hole


This is gonna be good. While i wait a few more weeks for the time to get to it heres a link to me racing my buddies SR --ENJOY--


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkiSwDGfx1k



yes i lose, yes i have bout 50hp going out before my turbo, yes im going to blow his doors off in a few weeks -he ran a 9.00 i ran a 9.5

is that 1/8th mile time. an the coupe weights less slight advance on ya but hell yea man my kat kills my buddys sr in the 1/4 an 1/8 an last week i took my friends 350z from 0 to 150 i took him by almost a whole car the whole way. it was nice lol

Ripped turbo off today to swap back for my T3 RB series 2 get that thing away from brakes. Found out no hole in block off false alarm it below it all good. I found the real problem- oulet i fabbed must have warped while welding together it has gap where gasket meets compressor housing outlet. I blew on it and BIG BIG leak im supprised it didnt run really poopy vacuum leak eh... Probly just the right size got lucky.

-No what to do..... pull motor sell and put a SBC --LQ4 if i can snag for super cheap or go forged 1500$ i still have to upgrade rad./mounts/intercooler set up/clutch/fuel system.....

$ wise for fastest car......opinions guys 350 small block T10 is sounding pretty fast/cheap in a way 383 be better but double price..

what

i would never jdm for us junk if you want a sbc sell the 240 to some one who will keep a nissan heart in it an buy you a junk cammaro. an if you go sbc you caint get help any more from the great nico people. in my .02 leave the us junk to the cowboys lol (joke). but i wouldnt even put a ls9 in a 240sx even if it was gave to me, i would sell it an buy a rb26 an put two t3 turbos on it oyea. an you will hate the gas an it will make it hard to resell the car after you cut a chop it up to put the 600 pound paper weight in it.

240man91 wrote:i would never jdm for us junk if you want a sbc sell the 240 to some one who will keep a nissan heart in it an buy you a junk cammaro. an if you go sbc you caint get help any more from the great nico people. in my .02 leave the us junk to the cowboys lol (joke). but i wouldnt even put a ls9 in a 240sx even if it was gave to me, i would sell it an buy a rb26 an put two t3 turbos on it oyea. an you will hate the gas an it will make it hard to resell the car after you cut a chop it up to put the 600 pound paper weight in it.

I'm going to threadjack and get up on my soap box for a bit.

That is literally the most intelligible argument I have ever read. There are tons of posts all over Nico and other 240 forums on the topic of swapping v8s into 240s.

There is a reason...becasue it is awesome. There are plenty of people that will offer assistance. If you had ever driven an LSX powered anything you would understand immediately why these swaps make so much sense.

Big motor + small car +f*** win.....every f*** time.....win all goddamned day

Stock LSX swaps make ~270-320 at the wheels out of the box...no go fast parts.

RB26 = spending lotsa $ just to get a motor and harness.
LSX = less $ with more torque and HP potential...fewer moving parts, cheaper go fast options, and MORE TORQUE.

also...last time I checked, Gen III Chevy V8s were still in production, the RB is not, for many many reasons, blind devotion to a single manufacturer with no regard for the technical achievements and offerings of other companies is asinine.

I'll stop there and wait for the fanboy rebuttal...

ho my gawd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SHAZAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!