man its getting close I have goose bumps

i know injectors dont make hp but without big enouf one you wont make any power eather an 800cc will go good with a gt2871r with a rom tune

go 3071. theres almost no price difference last i checked but the efficiency of the larger compressor housing will deffinitely be worth it. just get it in the .86 ar exhaust side to help keep it from choking. the difference in lag between the .64 and .86 will be negligable

STARTED IT and ran it around today!!!!!! no time for pictures

1st thing first >>master cylinder nice and cold did couple loops around the hood ICE COLD ...ok bout 120 degrees but GOOD!!

Found out it is a MUST to recirc that thermo valve hose (bottom intake by throttle body). It would run for a few sec then blabblub die..... anyways FIXED.

I still have to T my BOV into it only have one fitting off intake piping so LOWES tomarrow. It will stall if i rev it and just let it go I have to feather it a few times then it idle. Its got a bleed valve being oem subie i can feel air blowin out at idle. Anyways ill knock that out tomarrow no biggie.

Today i just ran it stock plugs stock gap didnt touch em. BAD idea marbles in a tin can at WOT for shur. Now i know exactly what it sounds like hehehe. I tried to buy some br6 other day but didnt have em so i bought br7 new and figured they might be ok. Long story short my buddy has some br5's that he said he runs in his NA ka <<LOL told him id swap him the set i bought for his extra set. I figure if they last in a na for couple months they must work just fine not foul out to fast. Gap to .33 i guess ill update when i find out how it does.



Anyways fellas i will throw up some pics when she's a running driving car cleaned up of course gotta get the odd ends taken care of. IMPORT ALLIANCE summer at superspeedway for shur !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bangin off that BEE*R till she blows

Wooot!
Congrats!

Careful son, you know what they say about fast, cheap and reliable, and we all know which two you picked...

Well 3 AM friken dog woke me up ....randomly remembered ....

I FORGOT TO RETARD MY IGNITION TIMING .......its still stock theres my misfire yikes i feel dumb

eh dont need reliable its just a toy if it blows im goin V8 with a gm goodwrench and a T10

Yeah, marbles in a can isn't spark blow out, its detonation. If it's audible in the cockpit it's real bad. Remove 5 degree's and add some back in as you get it tuned. You can remove the BOV and plug the hole and run without one. The blow back isn't that bad, your turbo will be fine until you get everything to properly run the plumbing.

WD

Well recirc. and it idles never stalls runs pretty good. Didnt get thos plugs so i gapped down to .33 and ran stockers. Retarted 3 degrees and its a tiny bit better. I drove around tonight just stayed out of it. Blew a friken charge pipe off at throttle body kept driving feathering at lights.....lol shoulda just pulled over. Fixed it tighter i guesss its good to go now.

Still marbles in a can at wot i can now do about 3/4 and get up to 5 psi without noisy. So tomarrow i go down to 5 retard see how she do. Its kinda annoying retarding then bringin idle speed up then retard and birng idle speed a touch more. Anyways thank fellas getting there got a 40 meet tomarrow i be killin it.

Retarted 5 degrees still same problem even swapped out for some br7's iridium gapped .33. I even filled the fuel tank up to brim 50$ worth of premo93.

Cruising it does great drove it hour away to nashville no problems? As soon as i get to roughly (2-3) psi misfire + knock BAD like scary rough. Honestly im a little lost on what it could be i can cruise at 85mph but pass 3/4 throttle poop.

The only thing i can think of is a fuel issue since all timing spark plug stuff changed nothing. I picked up a walbro actually for a rx7 im going to try to throw in tomarrow "crossfingers".

I looked at the plugs really good both times i pulled em out. Dark grey/black around outside WHITE blistering on ground strap. eh ill figure it out eventually

I guess ill grab a fuel pressure gauge ......really needing that wideband hahahahaha

Get some injectors, an n60 or n62 maf and something to tune with like nistune or a romtune. Hell an safc is better than nothing.

s13drifter88 wrote: Hell an safc is better than nothing.

for some people, yes, for him f*** no, he already has detonation, and safc will make this worse. He is already blessidly lucky up to this point,detonation is a scream from the motor that its already being hurt ,badly. A ka does not fair well with detonation. Telling him to add a piggyback wont help.
However the rom tune is not a bad idea they tend to be conservative due to being blind.

i know what an safc does and what results from its doings i promise. with a proper timing correction an safc can be a useful tool. retard timing to 12-13* (since you have a t25 its basically a heat pump on your engine anyways), drop in a set of 370's and between what the ecu can already trim a little correction should have you right but of coarse thats going to be with a maf that has enough resolution to meter the air flow volume. the stock maf wont do it. iirc it will reach its peak around 17-18lbs min of air and the t25 will flow 22 or 23 lbs min but dont hold me to that. either way that means that shortly after it begins to boost the maf will reach max resolution and prevent the ecu from metering more fuel. a larger maf with some injectors, a little fuel correction and timing retard should get you running down the road as you should but remember, the safc lies to the ecu by modifying maf signals and as a result different load variables are calculated by the ecu and timing is not properly corrected so thats why retarding the timing is key when pulling fuel for larger injectors

SAFCII also datalogs for you. I used a SAFC with a set of 440's and the MSD BTM and was very pleased with how it ran.

The problem is in the setup...kinda obvious...lol. If you have knock after you've retarded the base timing to 15 degree's and you're not even running more then 8 psi, you have something seriously wrong. Retarding the base timing more then 5 degree's is an awful band aid for tuning. Fix what is wrong before it's so broke it will never run again. The T25 is small, but it's not so small that it's causing knock under 8 psi, especially if the timing is already bumped back and you're using 93 octane.

Stock MAF will also be fine for 8 psi, they max out around 250-280whp give or take. He's far from making those numbers. People have been using the stock MAF for years with no issues at low boost.

just go 370cc an z32 maf an a tune from emance. i got a tune from him for 170 an i was only out of a ecu for 5 days wilr he tuned it. car runs like a champ gets 28mpg an tons of tork! i have ran my car at ten psi to 150mph car ran up there like a champ for a cheap tune. an he only charges 50 bucks to retune when you go bigger. so if you are lookn for cheap there you go.

my bad on the post i dont know what happen lol

Dropped in the Walbro tonight GS317 from a buddy for 40$. I grabbed some rubber couplers from lowes to help piping stay on from motor moving(didnt think of that one).

Went and did some pulls 7psi good to go i think. I sounds really weird raspy tone thinkin its open down pipe. Anyways, seems to run pretty good pulls hard sometimes/makes noise like its moving fast some times.....

Im going to mess with the timing tomarrow a little and see if i can get a consistant feel. One pull felt REALLY good on the buttdyno! I prolby need to drive it around for a while after connecting battery and let fuel trims get a feel i guess.

Last things are that friken outlet pipe on turbo and battery. I really dont feel like trying to fab one i SUCK at fabbing but ill take a stab at it i guess so i can run a hood. Supposed to rain all week so that will be motivation!!!!

Thanks for all the help guys finally coming together. Couldnt have done it without the tips and suggestions.

make sure the car is in timing adjust mode or its useless..

Which is disconnecting the TPS and restarting the car right? Just clarifying for anyone else reading this.

Lexcrob, what pipes do you need help fabbing? You can't weld right?

Check out http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=cghltd part number 5223K12. It's 2.5 inch pvc coated flex hose. $10 bucks for 5 feet. You should run your entire intercooler setup with this stuff. Just make sure to use a metal insert in the end of the pipe where it connects to the turbo to prevent the pipe from deforming.

WD

WDRacing wrote:Which is disconnecting the TPS and restarting the car right? Just clarifying for anyone else reading this.

Lexcrob, what pipes do you need help fabbing? You can't weld right?

Check out http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=cghltd part number 5223K12. It's 2.5 inch pvc coated flex hose. $10 bucks for 5 feet. You should run your entire intercooler setup with this stuff. Just make sure to use a metal insert in the end of the pipe where it connects to the turbo to prevent the pipe from deforming.

WD

that wont leak under boost? cause they sell that at lows lol. i think under boost it might leak caues its made from litlle pices. it might leak where they cometogether

Yep adjusted timing right way then idle speed then timing then idle then timing....and so on

I guess a miata battery fits perfect so ima try that out today luckily i work a a mazda dealer 100$ out door not bad.

I've got all the piping good to go but the outlet coming off turbo. If you look at the last pic i threw up its right next to valve cover. The bolt pattern makes it stick up to high towards hood. Anyways just gotta weld up some pipe to a custom flange....I can weld kind-of im using harbor freigh 90$ wire feed from a buddy. Its ROUGH crap goes everywhere really hard to lay a nice smooth consistant bead. The advanced auto piping is so thin i burn through if dont move fast enough.

Ill get it done tho FRANKENSTEIN right!

240man91 wrote: that wont leak under boost? cause they sell that at lows lol. i think under boost it might leak caues its made from litlle pices. it might leak where they cometogether

Not sure what part number you typed in, but the number I gave goes to flexable PVC, not the metal tube, that would be better for a downpipe. The stuff you want for intercooler pipe is at the bottom of the page on the left, high temp/smooth bore duct for liquids. It's just flexable PVC available in a ton of sizes instead the 2" stuff you find at Lowes etc.

Lexcrob, the stuff they sell at Lowes is only 2". I suppose you could use 2" but you'll need adapters etc. Better to buy the 2.5 stuff and have it shipped. Guess it depends on if you do just the hot side. If it's hotside only 2" will be fine. Your current setup is ok, but the flex pvc would make it a ton better. Maybe if you decide to fix it up later. It's good info to get out there regardless.

WD

correct me if im wrong here WD but the ka-de maf has less resolution than the sr maf, which has resolution to about 250-260whp hence why they reach full resolution with a simple t28 upgrade and boost controller install. not doubting you but ive never see more than about 210-220whp ka-t with stock maf.

on the safc note i just finished my buddy ryan's ka-et with an n60, fc3s 460's and an safc2. its a cxracing turbo kit, that one that claims 230whp or so. car runs great at 8psi with moderately retarded timing for the afc/s correction. i wouldnt suggest trying to push the turbo much harder but it feels good. honestly it seems conmparable to my ca when i dyno'd 241whp 227wtq with safc/t25g/3"ex/fmic/hks evc 6

i would suggest buying the cheapest ebay i/c kit and start laying some pipe. i think that could possibly remedy any plumbing problems or confusion. if you decide to do something different and ebay tube manifold (bottom mount) and s13 sr fmic kit would really make things simple.

at least it runs. you will get there an fab dose sux.

I'm not sure how the KA MAF compares to the SR MAF resolution wise. I'm suggesting he run no more then 8 psi, a number that has been done on the KA with various size turbo's with the factory MAF. Also, there are a couple guys on here, Chris for one, that have made over 250 with the factory MAF. I believe he did it with a GTiR turbo.

The CXRacing kits are awful hard to pass up for the money. Especially with the price of turbo rebuilds being so cheap these days. It was the same price as the damn turbo back in the day...f***.

its really not that bad of a kit honestly. after installing it first hand i have to give it some props. the turbo idk we'll see, time will tell there. even if its junk a quality used t3/t4 can be had for a few hundred dollars so hey, why not right. cheap out with that kit and while its still running in one peice save for a better turbo.

on another not for ebay parts as well OBX 38mm wastegates work great. I machined a spot on his rb20 manifold to accept the wastegate then drilled the hole and milled out the divider in the manifold and for about 8 months now its been working great. i have to give it credit

I agree, with the prices of everything to include services coming right down to the level where blue collar guys like myself don't have to fabricate everything ourselves we can play around with parts and options more freely.

Man, when I got back from Okinawa in 04 there were maybe 2 decent kits available and the only ROM tuner was JWT. Ebay was still selling manifolds that wouldn't come close to lining up, let alone lasting once you did mod some things. Now we've actually got some decent Chinese parts and a slew of "name brand" stuff.

To bad I'm getting old...

i dont know about the old part lol. But I know here in mo the car sean is coming up from what it uesed to be. aka all v8s an crap. i am seeing a lot more turbos on cars an alot less bodykits an wheels.

No speed bumps for me anymore ROUGH fitment nothing zipties cant fix.





I dont know if you can see it but theres my super ghetto outlet pipe. Muffler shop chunks and a wire feed welder it was almost impossible to get it leak proof. < honestly its probly a boost leak and the three bolts hit so gotta massage it a little....