help me out with my turbo setup

[nikn]

hello everyoneI need you to help me with my turbo setup. The car is a 1990 240sx hatch with ~130k miles overall and ~70k miles on motor. I plan on turboing it but i dont have much money [yet]. I plan on splitting the upgrades into various stages [i.e. i dunt want to get huge injectors if i can't afford the systems to control them]By winter i will have a bunch of tools, time, and 1500$

I plan on getting these parts...Turbo [t3/t4???] ~300$Boost gauge 40$Delta Gate 200$good DSM BOV 80$Custom Ic piping + cheap ic 200$JGS Manifold 300$Downpipe [+flexpipe?] 120$Oil lines 60$

...How much boost could I run??? [not asking for much] ALso, i would still have 200$ left to spare. Where should i invest or spare money? Any important guages or tuning tools i might need?Safety is the key here, i am only going for 150 to 170 hp at the wheels.

Over the summer I will get more money and i plan on getting these....

Cobra MAF 100$JWT ECU 500$Injectors[size?] ???$Pump[size?] ???$

What else would i need to up the boost to say 12 psi

[nikn]

yay first post

[s13conv]

IMO:I would suggest a fuel pump. You may want to spring for a Tial. An EGT would also be helpful.Depending on their mileage, you may want to alteast have your injectors cleaned and flow tested. Also, a lot of your estimates look pretty conservative (low).

[nikn]

The only real estimate [that im not sure of] is the custom ic piping.Doesn't the tial come with a spring? Which spring should i get?

[rco8786]

mmm i'd go w/ a 7 pound spring, and buy the walbro fuel pump. that should actually put u a little higher than your mark. Or if you really just want that see if u can get a 4-5lb spring...that'd be easier on ur injectors anyway.

IMO and if i were u. I would save another 2-400 dollars and do it safely w/ 370s, fuel pump, etc. Also, look around for a straight t3, they will be cheaper and better suited for your purposes. You will probably need something to control the fuel as well....afc or fpr.

[edit] an internally gated turbo would be fine for you as well [/edit]

[nikn]

since im too lazy to search and u people probably know this of the top of ur heads.. are there specific trims i might want so that i can eventually get ~14 psi later on

[nikn]

is there a point in saving up and getting JWT ECU or a standalone and not getting the RRFPR or the fmu at all... this may sound stupid but... do people mean rrfpr when u say fmu?

[WDRacing]

T3/T4, 50 trim, with a .63 AR...If your going to run any amount of boost I'd recommend a RRFPR(rising rate fuel pressure regualtor). That way you know your safe.

I sent u an email also...

WD

[rco8786]

is there a point in saving up and getting JWT ECU or a standalone and not getting the RRFPR or the fmu at all... this may sound stupid but... do people mean rrfpr when u say fmu?

rrfpr is a type of fmu... I personally would go w/ a s-afc. it will allow for upgrades in the future. you wouldn't need a standalone.

[andrave]

for "this summer" you might want to try a Z32 mafs instead, good for up to 550 hp or so and they are available for 60 bucks used if you find a junkyard site.I'd go with 370/440/550 injectors for 250/350/more HP, depending on your plans.And instead of the expensive jwt ecu consider the other alternatives, there is MSD BTM+apexi safc, emanage, a couple others. also I wouldn't skimp on the IC. plumbing/piping isn't going to be cheap and you will have to redo it all to add a better IC later. Start with a decent one. I don't think I would want to boost on the stock injectors, even with RRFPR...it might be worth waiting.

[huguetpj]

You might want to get the Tial with the .3bar spring. That should give you about 4.3PSI (I'm actually running 4.8PSI). My stock fuel system is holding up pretty well, still no dyno to prove that but the autometer blinky AF gauge says I'm doing OK. I did have my injectors cleaned and flow tested though.

I'm pretty sure I can get it to 6PSI safely on the stock fuel system but I'm not gonna do that until I get on the dyno.

[nikn]

cool, thanks guys, gonna check email later today. What should i get or do for my intercooler / ic piping???

[nikn]

is it really hard to tune the rrfpr and safc? Cuuz my experience is very limited

[WDRacing]

Nope...easy

[nikn]

if i dont get it i'll call u

[nikn]

any one here have custom IC piping made, any advice???? how much did it cost???

edit:When i get a saf-c will i need a rrfpr or vice cersa? At what boost level would i be required to upgrade the ignition?

edit [again]:when i get my downpipe i might get it custom made.... do i need the flex pipe thing for it? Where do they sell premade manifolds?

[daniel240]

have a muffler shop bend you some pipes for the IC. go to lowes or home depot and get some of those rubber pipe clamps and put it all together.

[huguetpj]

have a muffler shop bend you some pipes for the IC. go to lowes or home depot and get some of those rubber pipe clamps and put it all together.

Even better... get some mandrel bent tubing for the IC piping. For example at http://www.jcwhitney.com

[daniel240]

yea theres another option but that may take more pipes and you still might have to do some welding.

[andrave]

you can use silicone clamps if you are doing low boost, you may have to have a shop do a couple welds for you. But you can save money if you buy the mandrel bends and have them cut and marked where you need them welded. And you will have to use at least 4 silicone connectors anyway. You may want to see if there is anyone that does bead rolling where you live, on higher boost cars that blow IC pipes I've heard it helps a lot.

[nikn]

thanks. i think i'll try to get some good ol mandrel piping. checking out jcwhitney....

[s13conv]

You may want to see if there is anyone that does bead rolling where you live, on higher boost cars that blow IC pipes I've heard it helps a lot.

It's helps. Either that or use longer couilers so you can double clamp it.

When the pipe blows...you won't be going too far.

[nikn]

If i blow a pipe i would lose power, but would it harm the engine? Wouldnt it just start to run extra rich and loose boost? Oh yeah, are there any drawbacks to putting the MAF after the compressor, like next to the throttle body?

[andrave]

I've heard that sometimes if you do a blow through mafs it makes cold start up a little more hesitant.and yes the car will run full rich if the pipe pops out. Can't imagine its a good thing but I don't think it will hurt anything unless you have a cat.depending on the boost you are running its likely it would run so rich as to not run at all.

[nikn]

i c.... to those of u who already got their ic piping, how much did it cost you and what is it like [type of bends, etc]?

[Nathan]

I shall be getting mine soon from http://www.import-autoperformance.com as it's a great price and looks really good. It's not on the website yet though so e-mail Marc about it. I couldn't put it together for cheaper than what he's selling it for.

[WDRacing]

If you pop the IC pipe off the car will just stall...If you don't have a bead to secure the clamps to you can tape off a small circle and use JB weld, it works like a champ. It held on my Skyline at 28 psi...

WD

[Nathan]

Good idea WD! Did you just sand it to be a smooth hump all the way around the tube?

[WDRacing]

I just taped off a small section where the JB weld would go, then after it was applied, this is a little weird if your not a helocopter crew chief, I spit on my fingers and smoothed out the bead. The spit keeps the JB from sticking to you. So you can basically mold any shape you want. I'm sure you can find somthing besides spit but its so readily available...lol.

WD

[nikn]

cool. Hey wd, will you be selling individual parts like downpipes, manifolds, ic, ic piping, etc seperate from ur kits???