HELP--J30 wont crank

[alpha0r]

I have a 1993 Infinity J30 with 200,600 miles. I noticed that the car idoled rough so I began to follow the procedure outlined in the field service manual which comes with the car. I found that the number 5 spark plug was not firing because when I unconnected the electrical clip to that cylinder the engine didn’t momentary slow down like it did with the other 5 cylinders. I put in new bosh platinum plugs about a weep ago.

I then went to the next step in the FSM which was to remove the camshaft position sensor and listen for clicks while turning it by hand. I could not get the thing off; it was stuck like glue. However, I did manage to turn it about 180 degrees by taping it with a hammer and using a huge monkey wrench(probably a stupid idea). I partially damaged the outside surface but nothing to major—no cracks in the body or anything like that. After much effort, I turned it back to its original position or at least very close.

After hooking everything back up, I started the car and it idoled erratically close to 1100RPM. I turned the car off then re-cranked it and it ran for about a minuet then cut off. Now it wont start. I can hear the starter going and I think it turns over but it wont start. The check engine light has come on but I cant access the code. But my guess would be something to do with the camshaft position sensor.

What should I do now? Could the camshaft position sensor be off by a hair? Could I have somehow gotten metal shavings in the engine while turning the sensor? Could all the jarring have busted the sensor? And how do I get the thing out anyways!

Thank you ahead of time!

[driverdriver]

Welcome to NICO!!!

First thing you need to do is get rid of your Bosch plugs. J30's for whatever reason only run right on Nissan OEM plugs, they are the NGK platinums(go get them!). That's the first thing I would do.

Report back. Using the NGK's may solve your problem.

[misfit6794]

You have to remove the timing belt cover to get to the cam sensor, its not fun.

[alpha0r]

bump

[alpha0r]

Here is an update. I left the key in the car in ON position so I had a dead battery. After removing, recharging and reinstalling the battery, the car cranked again but idoled wildly. I removed the current Boshe spark plugs and replaced them with the NGK laser platinum plugs everyone recommends but the car continued to idol wildly and the number 5 spark plug still doesn't fire. The check engine light is on and I tried to get the code but I can not figure out how to get the ECM out. Does anyone have instructions for this?

What should I do now? Could the camshaft position sensor be bad/have the wrong angle? Please help my car has been out for over a week!

[driverdriver]

Here's the instructions for reading the ECU

zerothread/217489

You don't need to take it out. Just turn it and read the code(s).

Have you checked the ignition coil packs or OHM tested the injectors to make sure none are seized? Those things are known to cause wild idling also.

[alpha0r]

I finally got the codes!

13: Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit34: Knock sensor circuit

I'm not sure if I was clear before. The Engine idols wildly for about 30 sec then stalls out. The car didn't do that until I started messing with the camshaft position sensor.

[trosser001]

Did you ever get the cam position sensor off? I've run into the same situation, mine was initially slightly movable with the 3 bolts off. But, once I moved it (clockwise) it got increasingly tight. Eventually I moved it counter clockwise using a hammer and drift.

It has not loosened under force, and I even replaced and re-torqued the bolts - in case it needed to be reseated on some axial shaft. It remained tight when I removed the bolts - no difference in tightness.

- Can someone describe if they have ever actually removed the cam position sensor - are we missing something? Does the bracket on which the sensor is is bolted, need to be loosened? I hope that loosening the bracket would not loosen the timing belt tension.

[GerryO]

The CPS has a mild steel shaft with an outer o-ring on it and is shaped to fit over and engage the end of a camshaft extension. It's a pretty precise fit and really only has a few degrees of movement for the purpose of adjusting engine timing. It should pull straight off, but there's really no reason to remove it unless you plan on doing major maintenance. Off of the engine, its' shaft should spin very freely and only fits onto the camshaft extension one way.

It has a very thin metal laser-cut/slotted disc inside, an led light source and a detector, along with two sealed bearings, but unless you open things up (not at all recommended or easy to do), it would be very hard to damage anything inside. Nothing inside of the engine has gotten contaminated.

Your engine timing might be off now and you probably have a failed #5 injector (Ohm test), but the engine should still run with even two injectors disconnected/not working.

Access the ECM and pull the CEL codes.

Also, in order to remove the CPS, I think you need to remove one or both of the top plastic timing belt covers, and careful with the rubber gasket that's around it. Here are a couple of back side photos.




Modified by GerryO at 9:03 PM 10/21/2008