BCC93QT wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 3:53 am
Trade it for a 4 banger man. You need to get rid of it. On a side note. Major in English or something. You seem to enjoy stories and essays. Dont mean to be a dlck but cut your losses and move on
Lol, I actually did come for some suggestions to the current issues. No need to be judgmental. If you want to buy from me, I’ll let go for $2,500, but I’ve already done some car shopping and few dealers want to “trade in” an aging vehicle...they want $1,500-2,000 down, which is a lot more than the few bucks here and there I’m spending to track down a persistent issue. And at this point, buying a new car is not on my top priority list...
Only reason I’m having to keep doing this, is because in my area I haven’t really been able to get a good a/c diagnostic...nobody really wants to invest the time into it because there’s not enough people with knowledge about this car. One shop I went to for my brake booster, wanted to charge $120 for a/c evac, vac, and recharge before doing anything else, and I’ve already paid 2 shops to do that this year, and it still would not get cold.
So I’m having to backtrack to where I can recall things went wrong, and it lead to the high side hose into the evaporator. There was a blockage. Likely from the drier dessicant bag exploding.
Considering I already by passed the core, I’m just going to go with the previous attempt to just lift the hose up and out, then flush. I went to shop yesterday and was given some a/c pointers, but I should be in the right direction from here.
As for the topic issue, if it’s a hairline crack in the plastic I may can get by with a water pump/thermostat sealant. It’s not my fault that the NEW SUPERCEDED heater core contained the SAME s*** PLASTIC that had caused the leaks to begin with. Why should I get the blame for s*** manufacturing. Should have been made from metal, with a direct bolt on access from the firewall.