headlight temperature???

[teamieg35]

what temperature is the infiniti g35 headlights ??? also is it a dumb idea to replace the foglights with a hid conversion kit???

[audtatious]

Are they the HID headlights? If so, they are around 4300-4500 kelvin

Dunno about the G fogs, but HID fogs in my Maxi work well.

[teamieg35]

so replacing the foglights with a HID conversion kit wont be a bad idea???

[audtatious]

Worked for me. I wanted my fogs to match my HID's so I upgraded the HID's to 6000k and installed a 6000k H3 HID kit for my fogs. So far, so good.

[teamieg35]

sweet..ill buy the HID kit after i figure out what the exact kelvin temp is for my HID headlights ....gotta match or else it would look goofy

[Tr0uble]

whats a good HID kit?i saw some like 200-300 dollarsprice seems kinda fishy

[teamieg35]

ehhhh i got a pair of mccullochs for 240....looks amazing on my g/f's pilot....20 to 30 mins ..hardest part is finding a place to hide the ballast and figuring out which wire is positive and negative

[C-Kwik]

whats a good HID kit?i saw some like 200-300 dollarsprice seems kinda fishy

Depends on what you mean by good. Pick a name brand as far as the ballast is concerned as this tends to be the most critical part for reliability. But any kit you get will not be designed and can not be designed to provide the correct beam pattern through the stock housing so there are no "good" kits out there as far as proper lighting is concerned.

[Tr0uble]

Depends on what you mean by good. Pick a name brand as far as the ballast is concerned as this tends to be the most critical part for reliability. But any kit you get will not be designed and can not be designed to provide the correct beam pattern through the stock housing so there are no "good" kits out there as far as proper lighting is concerned.

Even if the stock housing was intended for HID?Both housings for S15 Headlights are identical ignoring the fact of one has HIDs and other doesn't. One is $2,200 and the other is $650.

[AZhitman]

I was intending to ask this same question.

My low-beams (HID) on my Coupe are bluish, but the high-beams and fogs are this sucky orange color....

We need a headlight expert STAT!!!

Where's simmsled??? Anyone???

[C-Kwik]

Even if the stock housing was intended for HID?Both housings for S15 Headlights are identical ignoring the fact of one has HIDs and other doesn't. One is $2,200 and the other is $650.

The problem is that the stock housing is not intended for HID in the fog light portion. A brief explanation for this is that a filament has a very definitive light shape with sharp cutoffs around the cylinder of the filament and fading ends. An arc capsule produces a filament-like shape, but does not have a sharp cutoff, and is actually more of an arc in overall shape as opposed to a filiament's straght shape. When you consider that the light source is the size of a 1/4" long pencil lead, you can only imagine how seeming small differences in the light source shape and intensity throughout can really affect the beam pattern when it is projected across a reflector and/or a lens. As a result, the lens and reflector system is different so that the light is projected onto the road correctly. Light distribution is very important for maximizing visibility where it is most needed and in ordernot to blind others on the road.

Headlights are not floodlights where you just need to saturate the road with as much light as possible. While that might be ideal for visibility, it would completely blind others on the road. The human eye responds differently in dark conditions than it does during the day. Add too much light in the foreground (the area directly in front of the car) and you're distance vision will suffer. Same is true anywhere else within your view. There has to be a certain amount of light balance to achieve good visibilty. and all this must be done so that the beam pattern and intensity will not reduce vision for other drivers. As simple as lighting would seem to be, it's not. For visibility, particularly for distance vision, turning on the fog lights under normal circumstances would actually hurt distance visibility as it provides a lot of foreground light.

Here's a much more detailed article about HID retrofitting. Poke around the tech articles on the site as well. You'll find a lot of useful lighting info in a lot more detail than you will probably need:

http://www.danielsternlighting....html

[G_whizz]

CK FTW....again!!

Geez...I kidd you not, you impress me everyday!!

Is there anything you don't know??

[audtatious]

I was intending to ask this same question.

My low-beams (HID) on my Coupe are bluish, but the high-beams and fogs are this sucky orange color....

We need a headlight expert STAT!!!

Where's simmsled??? Anyone???

Stock Nissan HID's will have a bluish look. Mine did. Tho, not as much as the 6000k units. The fogs and high-beams are standard Halogen.

[Simmsled]

Ok, so... where do I begin?

Light source is an Osram bulb. The ballast really does not matter when it all comes down to it. The light temperature is between 4100k to 4150k. I have seen a set of PIAA UltrasupersparkplasmaicetypeGTR lights that were really close to the color but..... let me say this. I have benchmarked about every single halogen bulb known to the universe and the question you must ask yourself is "do I want more light or matching color?" I say this because the brightest bulb I have tested is the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra. I don't care what anybody else says, there is no brighter halogen bulb commercially available. I tested these on a million dollar goniometer with 3D light collection capability (we can scan the output and drive the car on a simulator).

If you want color matching... I can tell you that if you try and match the colors by the color temperature indicated on the halogen bulb's box, you will not match.

As to putting HIDs where halogens were designed to go, this can be done but it is very tricky.

C-Kwik was heading in the right direction with this, but got a little off. (props for getting so far C-Kwik. The key to a successful HID retrofit is to get the arc in the exact space that the filament on the halogen bulb occupied. When there is no bulb shield involved, it is easier. The bulb shield and it's orientation to the optics (reflector) determines the path of light. The key is to have the image of the arc hit the optics (mirrors) the same way a halogen filament would. Tolerences become EXTREMELY important when dealing with this situation.

So let me put it this way, I will stop rambling...

To put HIDs in your fogs is possible. Your fog pattern will go away and you will have another high-beam. I advise against this. I almost went this route myself, but after testing in the lab... it just does not work well. The results are not something to desire.

I advise against having a HID high-beam because the light-up sequence and continuous on and off of high beam will kill the life of the ballast and light source. Not to mention that you are pulling almost 13 amps @ 12v each time you fire the ballast. (not good on wiring or charging system). If you flash your high beams, it is hell on your charging system. This is why you dont see so few HID high beams.

In the end, if you want the most light... get the Silverstar Ultras. If you want to match color, get some of the PIAAs that have a 5000k to 7000k. Stick with the good halogens to maintain the optical dispersal. The optics on the G35 were designed by one of the best optics guys in the business. I know him. He is a Bears fan. HIDs will give you lots of light, but at the cost of light going in unpredictable directions.

I hope this long *** reply helps. Please ask more questions... I feel valuable.

[G_whizz]

LMFAO!!

NIIIIICE!!

[Repo Man]

Random headlight guy engineer-type on NICO mod staff FTMFWMFer.

[C-Kwik]

Thanks Sean. But as far as this topic is concerned, Most of my info is from the website I linked to. I came across it many many years ago when I was researching HID's and found it to be valuable. I end up learning new things from it everytime I reread it when this topic comes up again.

Matt. Good info. The info on the site I linked to suggests that an arc capsule can't reproduce the same light as a filament. even if the overall shape can be reproduced, a filament has an extremely sharp cut off of light around the cylinder where as an arc has a more gradual decrease in light as you move away from the cylinder portions of the arc. I suppose some reflector/lens designs can have better results than others, being as exacting about light as they seem to be would suggest even the best matches would still be off. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this. Perhaps if tyou can read over the web link if you already haven't. I was merely attempting to summarize what Daniel Stern was stating in his article.

Thanks

[AZhitman]

OK, so for those of us too retarded to follow "the light"....

I don't care about additional lighing "throw" or "saturation".

I just want my fogs and high beams to match my low beams.

Help a retard out...

[Simmsled]

PIAA Xtreme Force 4700K

or if you dont want any blue to be seen while they are off: PIAA 4100K Platinum/Chrome (i forget if it is platinum or chrome) Mirror White

DAMN CLOSE. Technically speaking the 4100 should be the closest thing. I think that with halogen ratings that the hotter 4700 would be more true to color, but either will look just super!

[audtatious]

What about a wedge bulb to match 6000k?

Any status on my PPI?

[Simmsled]

Wedge bulb... I would suggest white LED. Anything else will be too blue when it is off. Purplish LEDs are in the making.

PPI... the guy that did the repairs that I knew has stopped doing repairs. He got married and his wife basically owns him so.... even tho he was a cool guy (could repair PPI amps in his sleep) he has fallen to the powers of the woman. But seriously... it is a good thing. I dont thing the guy ever got laid. Hopefully he is now getting some action.

[audtatious]

Hmmmm. I'll have to think about the LED deal unless someone makes one. I could do it just don't know when I'd get around to it. I have PIAA Super Plasma now and they show up pretty green

Sux about the amp. My a/d/s finally had issues so I replaced it with a RF 200.2 and I already miss my a/d/s. PPI would have been a good replacement

[Simmsled]

I have been thinking about selling my PPI A600.2 if you or someone you trust needs one. Or to anyone else I am going to sell my JBL BP1200.1. The JBL I would let go for pretty low just because I want to start building my Audi's suspension.

[audtatious]

That 1200.1 would do a good job de-coning my JL