Partysan7 wrote: Anyways so badically from what I understand you have to disengage AFS , adjust and leave it plugged off ?

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Correct. Leave the AFS unplugged for the VERTICAL adjustment. The left and right motors will still work if you turn the AFS on. I tried this last night and they work fine.

Glad I could help everyone!!!

JoshTex wrote:

Partysan7 wrote: Leave the AFS unplugged for the VERTICAL adjustment. The left and right motors will still work if you turn the AFS on. I tried this last night and they work fine.

Glad I could help everyone!!!

Josh,
If you leave the vertical adjustment unplugged does the AFS light blink (even though the left / right AFS is working)? Were you able to do this on the left side without taking the headlight out (I can barely reach it)? Thanks again for posting this... I think I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Good work, Josh!

Thanks,

Z

Yeah, Josh, GREAT WORK:)
BTW I was able to adjust the high beams lower than stock, than reconnect everything back, including the AFS motor adn everything is perfect! When I put 3 people in the back, the light are still as when the car is empty(high beams, and low beams!!!!!!!) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks!

Will be doing this soon!

Partysan7 wrote:

JoshTex wrote:
Thank you. I'm not familiar with the "clicking noise" you are referring to. It may, as you will disable the vertical AFS motor by unplugging it.

Joshua

I have this clicking on my driver side headlight only , its like its trying to adjust itself but cant. If I remember correctly there was a thread about it not that long ago and couple of members stated same issue. Anyways so badically from what I understand you have to disengage AFS , adjust and leave it plugged off ?

I have the same problem - mine is not so much clicking but more like motor churning (if that makes sense). It is only on the driver side and I can tell its the vertical motor because I can see the cut-off of the projector light twitch up and down when I'm parked in my garage and can see my lights reflect off the wall.

I'm going to try un-plugging the vertical motor this weekend and I might have to adjust the beams but I think they're just right for now.

Thanks Josh for the helpful info!

Great video, but that looks far too complicated for me. My low beams are aimed way too low, and I've tried playing with the main adjusting screw, but I didn't really see a difference. Does it have to be turned a lot to make a difference? I don't care too much if the high beams become unusable, as long as my low beams aren't pointed so low, as they are now!

^You should try the following link for pics/info on how to adjust your beams for perfect light output. Try positioning your car 25 ft away from a wall and adjusting the nut to see how it changes.... it could be you need to turn the nut a lot more. At 25ft distance you should definitely see some movement in the beam height if you turn the nut even just a bit.

http://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-insta ... tment.html

Partysan7 wrote:Great video Josh !!! Do you think this could resolve the clicking noise that some of us have ?

That clicking sound and/or churning sound the headlights tend to do are a faulty AFS motor!!! I, along with many other members, had a headlight replaced under warranty and although the headlight doesn't always "vibrate" or "shake" they do make that distinguished churning/ clicking sound!!! I don't have a solution to give y'all as a DIY but dealer went ahead and replaced the entire headlight unit!!

I had to unplug my vertical motor on the driver side headlight today ... was driving home from work and at every stop light I could smell something electrical burning. I was hoping it was not my car but when I got home and took a whiff of the driver side without opening the hood I could smell it. so decided to unplug the motor.

It does not make the churning sound anymore and the headlight is level now without twitching. I will have to see if the left/right AFS still works tomorrow morning.

Yup - AFS still works left/right and vertical is now disabled - luckily I didn't have to adjust manually the vertical alignment of the headlight

According to the FSM, the headlight leveling sensor is just a potentiometer. Has anyone monkeyed with it? I think I'm going to splice in a knob and see if I can control the headlight height from the cabin.

Hi, JoshTex's video led me to an accidental slightly dirty much quicker fix to my M45 independent headlight aiming. Years late, but here goes... The metal gear as seen in Josh's video at 2:49 is connected to a black plastic gear on the end of a cable, the other end of this cable goes to the "Blue Nut". The cable is held to the car with a plastic clip under that plastic ear with two holes. BREAK or pull the cable out of the clip, this separates the cable with the black plastic gear from the metal gear. You may need to Break that plastic ear with two holes or at least force the cable with black plastic gear up and slightly to the center of the car, up an inch and inward an inch so you can get fingers on the black plastic gear. Now, with pliers, I used needle nose vice-grips, lock onto the plastic gear or whats left of it and turn.....thas adjust the low beam, the metal gear can still be turned with a philips head and it will adjust you high beam. AFS still works. Do the same thing to the other side. And HOLY COW. Now PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go adjust your headlights and don't blind oncoming traffic or they might run in to you. What I need is how to adjust AFS left and right as my passenger low beam is 12 or more degrees too far right. Help?

My headlights are two low. I live in rural Idaho and must be able to see down the road at night to look out for deer, elk, and cows. Is the only way to fix this to load 500 pounds of sand in the rear of my 2000 QX4 to maybe raise the headlights? The switch beside the steering wheel does not do anything for raising or lowering the lights.