Head gasket recommendations?

[92TTZ32]

So the water pump went out on my 92 TT, and I'm going to go ahead and get a head gasket set just in case. Anyone have any recommendations on where to get a good head gasket set? I've seen the full gasket kits on Z1, and CZP, but I don't need everything in that kit. Just the head gaskets, and the other gaskets that I'll have to replace with a head gasket repair. (also, this will be my first time attempting to change the water pump, and possibly head gaskets. Any and all help, or advice is greatly appreciated.

[nissanfreak12]

When your water pump went out, did you overheat? Do you have signs of failure?

I honestly would not touch the head gasket because that is a very involved work. Replacing head gasket, you should replace the exhaust manifold gasket, intake gasket lower and upper, knock sensor and wiring, machine head, valves(valve job), seals clean lifters, and head bolts. There are some things I am missing btw. You will need to pull the engine because of the turbos, might as well new CHRA's, reseal engine. Since heads are off, look at the bearings and piston rings.

Just replacing the head gaskets, if nothing is wrong, is kind of a lot of work and money for no reason. With the heads off, you are half way into rebuilding the engine. If you are doing the water pump, do a 120k kit and call it a day, unless there is coolant in the oil, exhaust in the coolant, white smoke out the tail pipe(which could also be turbos) If you are not sure do a leak down test to know for sure.

[itsa300zx]

^^ agreed, the VG head gasket is pretty robust. Leak down test needs to be done, at the very least a compression test. Head gasket work is WAY more work than just a WP replacement. (To be honest, I would pull the motor for a head gasket work, to save your back.)

[92TTZ32]

Not sure what the matching cylinder numbers are, so this is what i got.

Left side standing at bumper
45 psi cylinder closest to bumper
20 psi middle cylinder
40 psi far cylinder

Right side standing at bumper
65 psi cylinder closest to bumper
25 psi middle cylinder
47 psi far cylinder

i read on another forum somewhere that somebody had posted cold motor test results, and operating temp test results, and his cold motor results were in the same range that mine are. is there going to be that big of a difference between a cold engine, and warm engine

Also performed leak down test on all cylinders, and the highest leak i got was 30% so i know that the head gasket is fine

Also, when pulling the coil packs, both of the far cylinders closest to the firewall, the bottom portion of the coil pack boot had melted to the spark plugs in those cylinders, and broke off from the actual coil pack.

Spark plugs are clean, no fuel, or oil found on them.

got everything put back together except for accessory belts, and some coolant hoses, and tried to make sure it would start, and it just cranks, but wont start.

spark plugs are wet, so i know im getting fuel and the ptu is working
I checked spark on every cylinder, and im getting spark, so why isnt the car starting?

[itsa300zx]

You need compression also to start, at those numbers, it will not. During the leak down test, did you pin point the leak? And why are you ruling out a bad head gasket/ warped heads.

[92TTZ32]

There were no leaks when I performed the leak down test, I listened at the throttle bodies, dipstick, exhaust, and everywhere else I could think of. And when keeping the gauge hooked up to the cylinder with the air hose removed, the gauge never moved on any cylinder, so according to that, there shouldn't be any leakage that isn't normal. Every cylinder was showing 30% or less on the gauge. That's why I'm having such a hard time believing its the heads, then again, I don't have alot of experience with these cars in particular either. I know I have to have compression to run, but what would cause it to lose compression, but show good on a leak down test.

[nissanfreak12]

Compression test numbers can be so skewed being cold, weak battery, throttle bodies are not open, etc.....This is why I do not like compression test.

Cars also need timing, are you sure the you are sparking at the right time? ARe you sure you didn't foul the spark plugs with all the cranking? When you did the compression test, did you make sure the injectors were not spraying? If they were, this could be the problem why not starting. Compression does also make a huge issue not starting, but if you didn't have an issue before and didn't overheat the engine, your not starting is lying somewhere else.

Besides a blown head gasket will show different numbers than the one you posted, even when cold.