Hardbody SR20 Swap guide

[boostedhardbody429]

Well here's another Sr swap in a hardbody. This is my experience, it's not a swap for the faint of heart. Though if you have a decent amount of mechanical experience, it shouldn't be that bad. I will just get started today and update daily as most of my time is consumed by the army.Just a little back story first. I got this truck back in 2010, i had the idea to do the swap since 2003, just never had any funds. This is my fourth hardbody but the rest have been bagged and bodydropped. So now in the army and just got back form afghanistan I have the funds and will to finally do this. So here it goes. Hopefully this helps somebody, because most of the guides i have seen are kind of spotty.

Here's a pic of finished product

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm not seeing the pic you posted.
Edit- nevermind. It works now!

[boostedhardbody429]

First off, I cant say this enough, after you pull old motor, clean your engine bay and everything you might be touching. It will make the job easier, trust me. This is a step you dont have to do, but it made it easier for me. I unplugged the wireharness from the motor, it just makes the splice process easier.

Pull all the wire from the firewall throught the firewall to the inside. We'll work on that later.It will make it easier if you remove the blower motor and evap box to have room for everything.

Pull all of your a/c components out, remove exhaust and power steering, we'll relocate that later as well.
Now you need to decide wether or not to use truck motor mounts or sr20 mounts. There is fair amount of fab work to be done if you use the sr20 mounts. You have to extend the mounting brackets on the truck frame to be able to use sr mounts because it is a stud style mount, you'll have to drill a 3/8 hole in the extended plate in the desired position where you want your motor to be. If you use the truck mounts, just bolt them up to the motor and set in place, they will not line with original mounting holes. You'll have drill new holes or just weld the truck mount to the truck frame. Dont worry if you do this you can still remove the motor if need be. Just make sure the motor is where you want it before you weld it.

Also you'll have to give a little hammer love to the firewall, if not you'll get a imnence amount of vibration.

As for the transmission you can use the truck crossmember, you'll just have slot the mounting holes a bit.
You'll also have to have the driveshaft shortened 2" if you plan on using the sr transmission. If you dont want to do that can use the truck transmission and keep the stock driveshaft from the truck. I'll do another post later on describing how put the sr bellhousing on the truck tail housing.Thats about it for getting the motor in. I'll post in the days to come for the other sections. Hope this helps.

[boostedhardbody429]

Now for the hard part, the wiring.You can do this a few different ways. Its probably easier to get a complete dash harness from a 240sx from the same year if possible. I only say this because you might want to be able to unplug everything at the firewall. Most of everything youll be doing is pretty splicing the 240 dash harness into the truck fuseblock. If your doing it this way you might want to get the cluster with as it will save you some wiring time. Also the speedo from the truck will not work with sr vss. You might have to change the vss to a KA vss anyhow to get speedo to work. It will work but will read wrong.
D21 Cluster Harness
Alternator charge : yellow/black
4x4 : yellow/black
Right flasher : grey/red
Lefr flasher: grey/blue
Speed sensor : red
Seatbelt: black/pink
Oil light: yellow/blue
Brake: brown/yellow
Watertemp: yellow/red
Fuel: yellow/purple
Fuel gauge: yellow/green
Speedometer ECU signal: white/blue
Winshield washer: white
High beam : red/yellow
Bulb check relay: black/yellow
Fuse 10A, ON/START : white/black
ABS:blue/red
Digital clock, 10A: red/green
Digital clock light: green/white
Lights: pink/black & pink/blue
Ground:black
Check engine: red
Tachometer: white
Unsued:
Purple
White
Green/brown
Blue/brown
Green/black
Green/yellow
Green/white
240sx cluster harness (there are 2 connectors, as you can see on a picture on the first page)
White connector :
Fuse 10A, acc/on : blue
Power 10A, on/start
Lights : red/blue & red/yellow
Clock: red/black
High beams: red/green
Fuel gauge: green
Flasher ground : black
Flashers : green/black & green/yellow
Blue, yellow/red & yellow/green are originally connectes to another plug and must stay connected
Unsued: yellow/black
Yellow/blue
Black connector:
High beams: pink/black
ECM: red
Parking break: yellow/purle
Alternator bulb check: white/red
Winshield washer: red/blue
Fuel gauge: red/black
Ceinture: red/white
Oil pressure: yellow/white
Seatbelts:yellow/green
Black: ground ??
Got this from one of my other forums hope this helps. This is only good the s13, but wires are mostly the same for the truck.If you go s14 wires will also be different. In that case Just pull up a FSM for whatever year truck and motor you are using

Finished product not tucked or pretty but functional for now and everything works.

[boostedhardbody429]

Just want to say just got this new synapse bov and installed. It is great, took away all of the turbo flutter and is virtually silent.