Ok when you try an start the car it turns over for like 30sec then starts timing is right an the motor is new an it has no emissions at all. Any ideas injectors are good to they are new an have been flow tested.. P.s this is a ka24de.

Anyone have any clues i was thinkn the aic might be bad.

Does it crank fast or slow?
Is the battery relocated? Some people I know got slower cranks after their relocation, but they don't take 30 seconds.

By the way, try to use commas and stuff.
Also, it's spelled "and" not "an", writing your stuff in regular English so it's easier to read might get you better responses.

Hard or long starting can be caused by lots of things. Tune, temp, voltage etc.

Try marking the dizzy where it is and then retarding it 5 degree's or so and then try to start it. If it starts easier I'd suggest new plugs, wires, amp etc. By retarding it, you're reducing the compression which will make it easier for the spark to ignite the AFR mix.

If no change is noted, move the dizzy back to the mark and start looking for vacuum leaks. A car running rich will start easier then one running lean.

WD

you will burn a nissan starter up cranking for 30 seconds straight.

You'll burn any starter up holding it for repeated 30 second bursts. Best to allow that dude to cool down between starts or start attempts.

Could be fuel pressure as well, or lack there of I mean.

Ok. The only vacuum i have is for the aic. The plugs are new as are the wires an plug wires, every thing on the motor is new but the intake. It has 9:1 commpression with bc 264/264 cams, an i did take my timing light and moved the dizzy back to neg five an no change

The tune was done by jwt.

And when you rev it up to say 3k an let off it will idel down an die in less you give it some gas.

sounds like a boost leak possibly.
with the jwt tune you want it set to stock timing for sure or it will very limp.

I've had mine crank like that before and it was the battery not being quite strong enough. Make sure its charged well and try again.

Yeah the batt is good its new too and the car has a new fuel pump too. no boost leaks i put 40psi to it befor i ever started the car. Man its maken me mad haha

I bet.

Ok i got the hard starts fixed thas was a bad plug on the tps. An the dieing thing was cause the throttle cable was not adjusted right. But heres the thing the car wont rev past 4k i checked the maf it seams to be working if you un plug it the car will barely idle. Then i changed the fuel fliter to an re gaped the plugs, but nothing any ideas what would cause this cause i am clue less. Dam this car is making me mad i just want it to run smooth!!!!

Got it!!!!! Ok so it was the ground wire on the back side of the head on the driver side. Crazy right?

By the way, thanks too all the guys on nico for helpn me out. An for the guys still wondering if the pvc system can be taken off an the car run right, well it can be. Block off the bottom part on the timing chian cover an leave the top open no need for a catch can any more. An block off the four holes on the bottom of the runners. Or do like i did an link them all together an take out the flaps in side of the intake.

ur oil must look pretty bad after a short drive with a inop pcv system. eliminating the flaps on the intake runners is fine, but no oil catch can or not having any way to remove blow by from the engine is no bueno. check out wds pcv setup in the search menu.

No it looks new still after 500miles an the pvc system is just to suck out the air in the block. An the oil filter is what cleans the oil not the pvc. An all cars back in the day vented it into the air epa says you have to have one cause there are gases and fumes coming out. An when your pvc fales under 20psi of boost an you blow your oil pan gasket an timing cover gaskets you will take it off.

Having blow-by sucked into the intake is a bad thing for performance, FACT.

There are a several ways to plumb hoses and catch cans that will either A, help filter the oil/crap before it gets to the intake or B, remove the intake from the equation all together.

The best option is an electric vacuum pump. I say best because it puts vacuum on the block, seals the rings and pulls out blow-by. There are documented cases of a used GM vacuum pump stopping leaks from the front and rear main seals.

The least effective method for removing blow-by is using a valve cover breather. It works because there is a hole in the VC and no pressure can build up in the block. But it is far from optimal.

For how well and cheap a vacuum pump works, NO one uses them.

WD

I tried to get a couple of used less than 100k vac pumps from chevys they were all rusted to death inside. New ones are not real cheap IIRC close to 2 bills.

Anywho you should see the nasty s*** pulled into my catch can(ran proper) Now ever after 6k with it not even a cup of fluid. Same car with same 6k had a can also install between vc and preturbo this can had nothing in it what so ever and was deleted.

FACT a real crank evac setup does better than vta or oem.' real meaning catch can and check valves , with a filter element inside the can'
FACT a setup with a pcv will have better oil longer.
FACT a setup with the lower timing cover blocked off and pulling atmosphere(better have a filter on that vc lol) is no longer a system with pcv.


gurus chime in on this;
300whp kat how much power is lost with a proper pcv vs vta?
Unless it is a 10% or more gain I see no reason to go vta other than aesthetics.

Personally, when you're talking about the best way to do something I don't think 200 bucks is expensive at all. You're talking about completely redoing the evacuation system of the motor. $200 for the main part isn't bad at all imho.

This guy is from Compcams and comes with all the wiring and hose for $200. That's a good deal. You have to pay to play. If I weren't using a vac pump I'd do something very similar to what you have currently though.

agreed its not overly pricey, but a brake booster check valve, catch can, some brillo pad, and a little hose is a lot cheaper . From what I gather you still want a catch can pre vac pump?

Brother I even pull chunks of carbon into the can. And some very gassy/oily muck.

Yeah you need some sort of oil/air separator between the pump and the motor or you'll ingest all that crap into the pump.

I would like to install one of those header mounted evac systems just so I can try it out. Cheap and no parts to fail.

time and money I dont have lol but I wanna try as well, but my reading lead me to believe you would still want some type of pcv intact plus the ext scavenge as its working best at high rpm/load.

I dont know guys i have just changed my break in oil after 1000 miles an oils looks fine still clean even.

240man91 wrote:I dont know guys i have just changed my break in oil after 1000 miles an oils looks fine still clean even.

The point of the pcv system is to remove the blow by ie. the hydrocarbons and exhaust gases that pass by your piston rings. If you do not remove these gases then they will settle in your oil, which will in turn break down the integrity of your oil. it is an important system on a new engine build especially, since this is when an engine is much more susceptible to blow by since the rings are still seating.

Yeah it vent right out of the vc you can feel a bit of air comeing out. I see what you guys are saying tho an yes it dose need a pvc. But the stock pvc was going to hurt the motor more than it was going to do good cause at 15 psi it gives out an lets pressure in the block. Witch is worse than my oil getting dirty faster i would rather change oil every 1000 miles the take the chance of blowing all the seals in the block.

I had a talon running 28psi and had the same issues, the easiest way to fix this without eliminating the pcv is to run a check valve between the pcv and the vac source. you are looking for something like this http://ps.thomasnet.com/productsearch/i ... archpos=10 just make sure it is capable of handling the pressure you will be running

Yes. That is kinda what i want to do with it but i dont know if i want a check valve type

the stock setup is ideal minus an extra check valve and can. even without a can its decent at removing the possible deposits from the oil. You can do it vta but its not the best option that is cheap, stock with a check valve will cost 3 bux tops.
You may feel some air coming from the vc but 20" of vac will clear it out much faster. If you dont have a filter on the vc you need to address that.