I need to call the shop foreman tomorrow at the Nissan dealership I went to, because the service advisor couldn't thoroughly explain the process that they charged me $125 for. I repeatedly asked about whether they pressurized the fuel rail with the BG additive, and I never got a clear, concise answer. He did show me that they used the 3 bottle BG "kit" that they charged $30 for.Here's the description on the work order:Customer requests 3 stage EFI servicePeriodic accumulation of carbon and/or varnishes in intake track and combustion chambers(1) Clean throttle body. (2) Clean intake passages. (3) Install additive to fuel tank, to help remove deposits as vehicle is driven.
What prompted me to question their procedure is that none of those steps involve the fuel rail/lines/injectors. Is there more than one BG fuel system cleaner procedure? I sure hope not, cause if there is it sounds like I got the wrong one. If that's the case I'm going to fight tooth and nail to get my money back considering how many times I asked the service advisor about pressurizing the fuel rail before and after it was done. And of course he just always said, "oh yeah, sure, bla bla bla". Never could explain how it was done though.
Got the BG fuel service, but did they do the right one?
An injector rail flush and a throttle body cleaning are 2 different things.
Rail flush, you run pure BG (or Wynns etc) cleaner thru the fuel rails at hi pressure, you actually takemoff fuel lines and attach line with cleaner in it.
TB cleaning: You spray the cleaner in the intake (or even remove some of intake and hand clean)
I like to have both.
Fred...
Rail flush, you run pure BG (or Wynns etc) cleaner thru the fuel rails at hi pressure, you actually takemoff fuel lines and attach line with cleaner in it.
TB cleaning: You spray the cleaner in the intake (or even remove some of intake and hand clean)
I like to have both.
Fred...
Bgilly, if you don't get it resolved let me know. I have some new toys including a tool for the injector service...exact same principles and procedure as the BG setup, and I can use the BG cleaner if desired. Email me if you want more info. If you paid with a credit card you can always dispute the charge. Hopefully the work order mentioned something about the injectors. It's iffy at best though, if you signed a line that says the service was performed to your satisfaction.
The Infiniti dealership (at least in Phoenix) treats the TB cleaning separately than the Fuel injection service.
Looks like you paid for the general TB cleaning service and not the Fuel injection. My dealership charges 120 for the TB cleaning and 90 for the Fuel injection.
Additionally, for TB cleaning they adjust the Idle (AAC valve) and in the fuel injection flush they do the power balance test (besides the cleaning/flushing)
So based on the amount you paid, it seems like the TB service.
Looks like you paid for the general TB cleaning service and not the Fuel injection. My dealership charges 120 for the TB cleaning and 90 for the Fuel injection.
Additionally, for TB cleaning they adjust the Idle (AAC valve) and in the fuel injection flush they do the power balance test (besides the cleaning/flushing)
So based on the amount you paid, it seems like the TB service.
Well, I spoke with BG this morning and they assured me that because P/N 210 was used ("Fuel Injection System Cleaner"), it had to have the fuel rail flushed. So now I feel much better about that! I'm not even going to call the dealership. Now the next thing to do is the BG transmission service. The guy at BG recommended that if I want to change the transmission filter, to do it before I get the service done, and to make sure that my transmission fluid level is full.
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Q45tech
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Much of the dirt in the flushed ATF comes from the BG Quick Clean dissolving some of what is in the pan........therefore always a good idea to get a pan clean before the Flush....while your in there you might as well change the filter.
Studying the color of ATF before , during and after will give you much insight. The critical thing is to time [2.5-3 minutes]the exchange to learn the condition of the internal transmission pump and any bypass leak arounds.
Studying the color of ATF before , during and after will give you much insight. The critical thing is to time [2.5-3 minutes]the exchange to learn the condition of the internal transmission pump and any bypass leak arounds.
It's as easy as unbolting the pan and then unbolting the filter (4 long bolts). The pan bolts are all the same length. The filter bolts are 2 different lengths I think. Make sure the o-ring is properly seated after you finish bolting the filter down. Torque is low on all of them, maybe 5-6 foot-lbs.
I've always removed the tube. It might actually be loose enough to remove with your hand, though you'll want to tighten it with a wrench if possible. Also feel in the exhaust port with your finger if you take the tube off to make sure it's not clogged just past the tube. If you decide not to remove the tube, a flexible bore brush or burrette brush would probably work well. Hobby shops sell long flexible plastic and metal rods for RC airplane control, too, but without any brushes. Maybe $1-2. Ideally, you could find a threaded bore brush head that was the same thread as the threaded pushrods. Whatever you use, make certain it won't come off the rod, or you'll likely have to remove the tube to get it out.
You can see it better, but from up above is fine too if you can feel around. You need a wrench that's not too long cause there's not a lot of room to work down there. Just to add...it's worth repeating that dropping the transmission pan is a MESSY job. A groundcloth and/or lots of cardboard are worth considering to minimize cleanup time.