Going to the Dyno Monday. Tips?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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float_6969
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Well I'm gonna get this thing fine tuned. I know my timing isn't right and I'm sick of it. Plus it's too rich and turning my bumper black.

I've done LOTS of research and I feel like I'm very well educated about the in's and out's of tuning, but as always, experience is the best teacher. As I've never been to a dyno before, I don't know what to expect, or what to plan for. I feel very comfortable with the SDS now, and it's tuned well enough to drive it daily, but I can feel that it's got a "dead" spot in the powerband down low and it tuned quite rich still (12:1 or richer).

So my question is, to all of you who've got experience, what do I need to take, what should I expect, ect.

Also, I'm borrowing my Dad's digicam, so I should have lots of video and pictures. I'm hoping that I can also get copies of the dyno sheets somehow. (Do they give you a disk, or do I have to have printed copies scanned?)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,Ryan


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float_6969 wrote:Well I'm gonna get this thing fine tuned. I know my timing isn't right and I'm sick of it. Plus it's too rich and turning my bumper black.

I've done LOTS of research and I feel like I'm very well educated about the in's and out's of tuning, but as always, experience is the best teacher. As I've never been to a dyno before, I don't know what to expect, or what to plan for. I feel very comfortable with the SDS now, and it's tuned well enough to drive it daily, but I can feel that it's got a "dead" spot in the powerband down low and it tuned quite rich still (12:1 or richer).

So my question is, to all of you who've got experience, what do I need to take, what should I expect, ect.

Also, I'm borrowing my Dad's digicam, so I should have lots of video and pictures. I'm hoping that I can also get copies of the dyno sheets somehow. (Do they give you a disk, or do I have to have printed copies scanned?)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,Ryan
Start with low boost settings (sub 15psi) and start by using your trim knob in areas that shows either rich or lean. If you are lean from (example) 4000rpm-6000rpm with an A/F ratio of 14:1-15:1, you'll start adding 2-3% fuel at or around 3800rpm until your a/f ratios get to the desired ratio you want (preferably 12:1). Timing in your case is somewhat tricky, but I recommend your max timing at say 23 from about 2000rpm onward. Keep in mind you have to be listening for detonation. Since your compression is a bit higher, it would behove you to put an octane booster in your fuel. Any more Qs, you know how to find me.............Good luck!

Dee

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fanta
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http://www.efi101.com/forum/Great forum- knowledgable people, everything from seasoned builders and tuners to dyno operators and distributors.

What dyno will you be using?

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ive got a tip for ya, TEAR SOME A$S!!

oh, and last time i went they emailed me the charts from my different runs. i dont doubt they will put them on a cd for you. now if only i could stop being lazy and go to the dyno as well....

- tim

p.s. - sorry i havnt been on in a while but my laptop died and i havnt had time to get a new one (or money for that matter)

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float_6969
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boost_boy wrote:Start with low boost settings (sub 15psi) and start by using your trim knob in areas that shows either rich or lean. If you are lean from (example) 4000rpm-6000rpm with an A/F ratio of 14:1-15:1, you'll start adding 2-3% fuel at or around 3800rpm until your a/f ratios get to the desired ratio you want (preferably 12:1). Timing in your case is somewhat tricky, but I recommend your max timing at say 23 from about 2000rpm onward. Keep in mind you have to be listening for detonation. Since your compression is a bit higher, it would behove you to put an octane booster in your fuel. Any more Qs, you know how to find me.............Good luck!

Dee
I'll be starting at the stock wastegate setting for an SR T25, which is right at about .5 Bar via my Autometer boost gague.

My timing is pretty close to that. I think I've got it at 24 but it doesn't hit that until later. I'll go mess with it right now and see if that helps.

I plan on custom mixing some gas and should be running about 98 octane. I think that should be enough to handle 14psi, max power timing, and 9.5:1 compresssion. I can mix it higher if anyone thinks that's not high enough. I couldn't find any sort of minimum octane calculator on the internet anywhere.
fanta wrote:http://www.efi101.com/forum/Great forum- knowledgable people, everything from seasoned builders and tuners to dyno operators and distributors.

What dyno will you be using?
I've snooped around that site some. I probabally need to hang out there a little more regularly. I'm not registered.

It will be on a Dynojet. Maybe not the best Dyno, but it my friends shop and I'm getting the dyno time for a very fair price.
r34 gtr wrote:ive got a tip for ya, TEAR SOME A$S!!

oh, and last time i went they emailed me the charts from my different runs. i dont doubt they will put them on a cd for you. now if only i could stop being lazy and go to the dyno as well....

- tim

p.s. - sorry i havnt been on in a while but my laptop died and i havnt had time to get a new one (or money for that matter)
Well do something man. I MISS YOU!! Ok, not really. I just miss making fun of you.

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is the dyno operator knowledgeable in tuning? dont be afraid to ask advice/help.. most dyno people will go out of their ways to help you out.

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make sure your spark plugs are already gapped and in real good condition..take some spares just to be surecheck hoses and clampstake some mechanix gloves ..just in case you have to check around the engine after a couple of runs...coz it will be hot...

be knowledgable about its conditon and mods... so you can inform the operator of the information he needs to know

just make sure that the car is ready to run..no delays cozdyno time is all $$$

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float_6969
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Not_a_sr wrote:is the dyno operator knowledgeable in tuning? dont be afraid to ask advice/help.. most dyno people will go out of their ways to help you out.
I don't know to be honest. I used to hang with the guy, but I definatly wouldn't have called him a 'tuner' by any means. I mean him no offense, but it's more of a rice shop. Mostly wheels and body kits. He does do motor swaps though, but I don't know how much standalone tuning he's done.
cortinka wrote:make sure your spark plugs are already gapped and in real good condition..take some spares just to be surecheck hoses and clampstake some mechanix gloves ..just in case you have to check around the engine after a couple of runs...coz it will be hot...be knowledgable about its conditon and mods... so you can inform the operator of the information he needs to know

just make sure that the car is ready to run..no delays cozdyno time is all $$$
Plugs are brand new, but I'll bring another set.

I've been driving the car for the last few weeks, so I think I've got most of the leaks tracked down.

Good idea about the gloves too! I didn't think of that.

I built the motor, so I know it inside and out. I could see how that might be a problem though!

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nah its not a problem floatit just helps when the tuner asks a question about internals or tech stuff

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i wouldnt tune with the race fuel, make sure you do all your tuning on the gas you will be running everyday, then if you can make a special maps for the 98.. save your original maps to a diskette too incase you ever make a mistake or something.. and back up your tunned maps before playing with the high octane maps..

i would also walk with a cooler with soem dry ice and a bottle sprayer/mister for the intercooler,its really hard to get teh same results on teh street cause of heat soak.. spryaing the intercooler and rad occaasionally helps..


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CA19DET wrote:i wouldnt tune with the race fuel, make sure you do all your tuning on the gas you will be running everyday, then if you can make a special maps for the 98.. save your original maps to a diskette too incase you ever make a mistake or something.. and back up your tunned maps before playing with the high octane maps..

i would also walk with a cooler with soem dry ice and a bottle sprayer/mister for the intercooler,its really hard to get teh same results on teh street cause of heat soak.. spryaing the intercooler and rad occaasionally helps..
Unfortunatly, I've already got the 99 octane in the tank, so it's too late for that. If I have a problem with the pump fuel knocking (I'm only running 7psi on pump fuel, anything higher and I'll use race fuel), I'll pull some timing out of it.

I'm also using SDS, so I can't save my maps to a disk or anything. I'll just record everything down when I get done at the dyno, and then if I change it, I can revert it back when I go to higher octane. One of the few drawbacks to SDS I guess.

I had planned on taking a sprayer for the radiator and intercooler. I don't know what kind of setup this place has and what kind of air flow we're going to be working with.

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float_6969 wrote:Unfortunatly, I've already got the 99 octane in the tank, so it's too late for that. If I have a problem with the pump fuel knocking (I'm only running 7psi on pump fuel, anything higher and I'll use race fuel), I'll pull some timing out of it.

I'm also using SDS, so I can't save my maps to a disk or anything. I'll just record everything down when I get done at the dyno, and then if I change it, I can revert it back when I go to higher octane. One of the few drawbacks to SDS I guess.

I had planned on taking a sprayer for the radiator and intercooler. I don't know what kind of setup this place has and what kind of air flow we're going to be working with.
Damn (off topic) 6000 posts! What a frickin' whore.......

Dee

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And I only became a member 3 months before you did.

Slutty, slutty, whore....I love me!

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why not jsut drain the tank and then pour it back in after you run some pulls with regular octane??

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Mainly because I don't have a 15 gallon bucket to hold all of that gas in.

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Well, bad news. We had trouble at the dyno and I didn't really get anything done. He couldn't get a good tach signal.

We did 4 pulls, and he only got a reading out of two of them. The two he did get were HP only because it wouldn't read the torque. He said that he thinks that one of his employees had screwed up all of the settings on the computer. Plus he knew he had one back tach cable, and when he tried the other one, it wasn't any better. He was going to order another cable, reset his computer, and then we'll try again.

The best HP reading I got, and he said he's not sure how accurate it is due to the problems he was having, was 187WHP.

That is no tuning but the street tune I had, which means, VERY rich (11:1 or richer), safe ignition tuning, and low (.5 Bar) boost on an SR T25.

I didn't feel that was too bad considering. As he put it, "That's more than a stock SR".

I'm going to try to get back later this week. I'll keep everyone updated.

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gee float thats a bugga these things can happen2 different occasions i have been ..the tuner had laptop problem ..lucky i always take mine as a precautionand the other the lambda sensor wire had broken and they had no spares...so a very 'fine' solder job had to be done..

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He didn't charge me, so that was a bonus. And the nice thing about the SDS is that there's no laptop to worry about!!

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LOL, you beat me to it. I was just going to post up about that. So here we go...

Initially, we tried using and inductive pickup on the ground wire for the coilpacks, but that didn't work. So then we tried using the #1 sparkplug wire. We tried it right at the plug. It wasn't a clean signal (but the best we found), so then we tried the 2 wire plug that is the signal feed from the SDS to the coilpacks, and that didn't work either. He thought that it was a bad cable and he knew somebody had screwed up the setting on his computer so he just said that he was sorry and that we'd have to try it again another day.

I talked to him again today and he said that he tried another car up there and didn't have any problems with it. So it was something about my ignition. So I called SDS and they said to use the 12+ feed for the coilpacks, which was the only thing we didn't try. I'm going to go back next week and try again. I'd go sooner, but we noticed my AFR's are all over the place (I noticed it with my WB, but I wanted to compare with his readings) so I just ordered a NISMO FPR and I'll put that on this weekend.


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