The observed vehicle is a fully loaded US model 2011 Infiniti M56 Sport - RWD.
You might see some components in this discussion that your vehicle does not have, and likewise you might have some components that are missing from the sampled vehicle.
This thread does not account for the different variations in the platform:

• V6 vs. V8
• AWD vs. RWD
• Sport vs. Non-Sport
• Hybrid vs. Gasoline vs. Diesel
• M56, M37 vs Q70
• SWB vs. Long wheelbase
• US market vs. "other" markets
• LHD vs RHD

If in doubt, confirm with the service manuals. However, it would be beneficial to get some participation & feedback from anyone who sees a discrepancy in the info - let us know what year/model you have and what is different, what is similar.

Let's work our way from the inside out. In the driver footwell area, there is a fuseblock in the left kick panel. This is what most people have in mind when they refer to a "fusebox". It comes with a fuse puller but accessibility can be a little tricky here - you might find it more convenient to work with the parking brake engaged, disengaged or somewhere in between.
You have to unfasten it, turn it around to access the relays shown in the schematic below.
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This is how it looks like in real life

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There are plenty of fuses outside of the cabin area, some of which are out of sight. The engine bay has 3 main locations with relays:

• Left side of the engine bay, next to the MAF (mass airflow) sensor tube
• Right side at the front, near the PS (power steering) reservoir
• Right rear within the battery compartment

This is the left side fuse & fusible link holder
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Rotated for right-side-up reading. This is how it would look if you were standing at the side of the car, by the fender


Arrow points to the front of the car

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Here is the schematic from the manual

The FR fusible link holder will also be read with the text right-side-up, the viewer standing at the right side fender.
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Start removing the battery cover & trim pieces.

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The most evident box in front of the battery is the fuse, fusible link & relay block
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To make up for where my photography fell short, there's this:

If you keep removing the trim, you'll expose this unassuming box on the far-right wall of the engine bay. This box is actually the main fusebox, the IPDM - intelligent power distribution module.

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You can detach the box from its cradle.
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You can also remove the front cover to expose some fuse clusters
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Schematic
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These are the labels. Remember that you are reading 4 different clusters of fuses

There are some very important fusible links that in turn enable every other fusebox & major electrical component to function. These are located on the battery positive terminal.
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One of them is at the top & straddles the positive terminal stud
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The second cluster is at the bottom of the terminal/side of the battery.
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I sincerely hope you don't have to deal with these

Reserve

Reserve

Good stuff! This will be helpful for the forum members and Google lurkers!

Thanks Ilya, that is my hope as well.

Wow, thanks for this tutorial. Ed, you're awesome! I enjoy your YT videos too.

This is great Ed! I'm getting setup to replace the lifter bucket on the high pressure fuel pump. Can you confirm that the 15A fuel pump fuse in the IPDM is the only fuse I need to pull? should I leave the injector fuses alone?

ibc wrote: ↑

Tue May 05, 2020 5:02 pm

Wow, thanks for this tutorial. Ed, you're awesome! I enjoy your YT videos too.

Thanks ibc, I appreciate the support.

madmanpauly wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:53 am

This is great Ed! I'm getting setup to replace the lifter bucket on the high pressure fuel pump. Can you confirm that the 15A fuel pump fuse in the IPDM is the only fuse I need to pull? should I leave the injector fuses alone?

Yup! That 15A fuse should be sufficient to cut fuel. No need to mess with the injectors as they are downstream of the component you're addressing.
Good luck on the project, and please give us feedback on the condition of your bucket + any challenges or shortcuts you come up with.

12 56 148k
One of the fuse on the positive side of the battery cable is blown (car wont start). In addition I am looking at value train issues, black engine oil (changed every 3500) plus the fuel pump in the engine bay not operating properly causing car to run lean. I will know something tomorrow. Nervous like I have a final exam tomorrow!
Get it running and sell or fix and keep?