so i just finished doing new piston rings and HG. just before the rebuild i had all the injectors rebuild and i installed them with brand new oem seals. now we had the car running yesterday but timing was reading about 25to 30 deg~ so we left it for the night. today it started this morning and we bring it into the shop, i adjust the dizzy thinking we jumped a tooth and now 4 hours later car wont start still. ive flipped the dizz all types of ways and recheck tdc, checked all fuses, fuel pressure, spark at the wires and the temp sensor. the closest we have it is at 5deg btdc while cranking or other setting was at 25~ btdc. even in that range car should start i believe.
car has enthalpy ecu, n60 maf and currently has no coolant in the engine because i was gonna to bleed it today but we hit this wall
ive been searching all night but only a few people come back with results and generally its a swap that never ran to begin with lol

have you check cam alignment we all do it sometimes.

i havent rechecked it since the day we assembled it. somewere i read that the fsm doesnt align the exactly cams right. is that tru?

stock cams? they should line righty on up. tdc on #1 then face both intake and exhaust cams away from each other and parallel with the heads vc mating surface, not the ground. Stab dizzy to hit number one point on the cap. Button up and go.

IN a sense it wont line up with the dot on the idler sprocket every time.
FWIW 25* is acceptable for an na motor.

yea cams are timed, like we had the car running all i did was re timed the dizz and it never started again. we re timed it for 2 days a thousand times idk what else to check i want to just burn this car to the ground.

when you set the timing, did you do it just off of the marks or did you actually physically find TDC #1 and then set the rest off of that?? I have had engines where the marks lined up but #1 wasnt at exactly TDC

i did it but the marks on the pulley and the little squares on the cam gears and oem manual

Best way i have found to find true TDC without a degree wheel dial indicator and TDC gauge is to pull #1 spark plug and either use a long 1/4" extension or a straw, put a clip board with a piece of paper that has lines on it behind the extension/straw and rotate the motor till the extension/straw comes to the very top and starts to go back down. rotate back a hair so it comes up and stops, then you have true TDC.
Most accurate is with a dial indicator and a TDC gauge but most people dont want to spend $150 for this when they use it very rarely

i guess i should try re timing the chain without using the pulley.

I use a screwdriver down the spark plug hole and my free hand to feel if it has stopped. Sometimes you just gotta cycle again to make sure.

yea i know what you mean ive done it like that before with honda motors.