Fuel Pump Tips?

[Rex]

I've got my new fuel pump and filter on the way from Scottsdale, Thanks Frank (Joe was on phone).

So, what I'm looking for beyond the very helpful information in (http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=6268) is what tools or things did you realize you needed after you got started. And what tips made/make it easier?

I'm gonna try to be at about 1/4 tank by Saturday, I never let it get below 1/2. Take the cap off, pull the fuse and turn over the motor to try and empty the lines.

Throw a brother a bone .

Also, I don't have a FSM, so any diagrams would be great.

[maxnix]

Run the tank dry and inspect it. Take it out and clean it if you see anything inside. Tank pollution causes most fuel pump failures to occur soon again. The white filter sock won't save you if the tank is dirty.

Go to http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti/ to download a manual if it is 1994 or later. Never remember where to put the hyphen.

[Q451990]

Just did this last week, so it's fresh in my mind!

Just make sure you start the car with the fuel pump fuse removed, then loosen the gas cap to avoid pressure buildup in the tank. Lower fuel levels are good, but not necessary... I've done it both ways without a great deal of difference.

It is absolutely necessary to have the package tray and storage compartment (between the speakers) out to be able to fish this thing out! Just remove the six 8mm bolts and two fuel lines - remove it (you'll pull up and then tilt to the right) and gently pull it up through the hole in the rear deck. Have a rag on hand to catch gas drips, and to hold under the pump as you remove it from the trunk. I also had a fire extinguisher on hand just in case. I wouldn't do this in the garage either - ventilation is good!

Be sure to have a new o-ring on hand and don't overtorque those 8mm bolts that hold the pump assembly to the tank when you re-install! It's really pretty easy... I'd allow three hours start to finish, including beer breaks

Heath

[Rex]

Frank recommended the o-ring, so I have that. The size of the bolts and to "not overtorque" is helpful. Do you happen to know the sizing of the nuts on the fuel lines?

Mine is a 94, but "Go to http://www.nissantech-info.com/infiniti to download a manual if it is 1994 or later" - this link doesn't seem to work .

[Q451990]

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti/

I don't remember the nut size on the fuel lines... maybe 17mm? The wrench should be in good metric tool set.

Find the 1 day viewing subscription for $19.99 and you can download the manual as a .pdf - at least that's what I've been told. Although I'm a huge fan of having the FSM - I doubt you'll need it for this.

Oh, one more thing - replace your fuel filter at the same time. A clogged or partially clogged filter can cause un-due stress on the pump.

Heath

[elwesso]

Rex-- Email me, and Ill give you the FSM printouts about the fuel pump........!

[DAEDALUS]

I think the nuts are 14mm, maybe 12.

[elwesso]

My fuel pump was replaced RIGHT before I got the car (within weeks), so im gonna make this one last!!!

[Qdog]

Just replaced my pump while waiting for my injectors to get back from cleaning. Ready to replace the plenum this week. I noticed the FSM says don't run the fuel pump without fuel in the lines. What about after replacement ? Will the pump quickly prime itself with a low fuel level in the tank, or is it necessary to back fill the fuel lines from under the hood ? The short rubber hose at the top of the pump (in tank) looked fine after 12 years, should it be replaced ? BTW, I was really surprised to see no crud at all in the tank, but the filter sock was a dark shade of grey. After pulling the plenum and everything under it, the fuel pump replacement was a breeze. Two bits of advice: watch out for the fuel level float, you don't want to bump it & damage the sender. Second, clean the terminals before attaching them to the new pump. I used #150 sandpaper lightly, then cleaned off the residue with a clean rag. They attach with screws, I was able to torque them quite a bit without stripping the terminals. Unplug the connector outside the tank before trying to remove anything. I replaced my pump (first time if service records are correct) purely as PM at 168K.

[elwesso]

The pump will prime itself....... What they dont want you to do is run the pump without any fuel in the tank....! DUH!!

What Id do is turn the ignition to on..... Let it prime..... Turn it off, and let it do it again...... That should be enough........

[Rex]

Pump, filter & O-ring showed up yesterday. I will pre-tear down the back seat and all tonight after dinner and do the pump & filter swap tomorrow. I'm expecting about 1 hour tonight and 2 hours tomorrow, then lets see how much more "stride in her step" she has when she's getting a full gulp

I'll say when I took the pump out of the box for a pre-look, I was surprised to realize, the pump attaches to the lid/cover and isn't all one piece.

Going to try and get my buddies digi to take step by step pics for the next "first timer".

[elwesso]

Rex..... You can email it to me and Ill put it on my site......!!

[Rex]

Wasn't able to get his camera

But I'm done 2hrs 17 minutes And I was making dinner at the same time. Yes, I washed my hands sufficiently between the car and the kitchen. Actually, I washed them so much and so often, my hands DO NOT smell like gas.

One thing that has me a little concerned is the wires in the tank itself. When I removed the pump, there was a small part of the red (hot) wire that is peeled back exposing the bare wire. I'm POSITIVE it's been there, as both the copper and the coating appeared aged. I've "stripped" wire before and this did not have the look of freshly stripped wire. From what I can tell this is no more "exposed" than the solder points on the cover plate (at the top) or the connection on the pump itself. I have started the car with no issue and NO HUM .

Thoughts?

[Q451990]

If it was there before, I'd say it's probably OK as long as it won't short with anything that's grounded!

Your mention of hand washing made me remember something I forgot to include in my tips... Nitrile Gloves! These work really well. I've started using Latex gloves anytime I'm working on the cars now - so much easier than 20 minutes of trying to clean my hands and I can avoid most knicks and cuts. But Latex doesn't hold up to gas, oils, brake parts cleaner, etc. The nitrile gloves work great with solvents though.

Heath

[Rex]

Well, since my kids ride in the back seat that's in front of the gas tank, I decided to play it safe. I pulled the pump back out and used a zip tie to secure the loose wire coating back over the bare piece of wire.

Now I gotta order some o2 sensors.....