Front Indicator Problem

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matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Hopefully you found your problem with the contacts being the culprit. fingers crossed. I just had a look at the wiring diagram someone posted and found that your blinker shares a common ground with the parking light. So the two wires going into your light should both be positive one for the blinker and one for the parkers and the light surround should be your earth. Does this sound like what you have? Is it one light bulb with two filaments like a head light? Totally curious now as I haven't seen one before. s*** you gave us blues a hidin' last night! good luck.

cheers


odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Yes the indicator is the same as the parkers

its got two filaments like the brake/stop bulb one for the parkers one for the indicator.

I might as well sand and clean the socket/earth of the bulb as its got surface rust.

if it doesnt solve it I'll be calling an auto electrician for sure.

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I installed new socket contact and still having problems with it.

the driver's side is brighter than the passenger side, tried swapping bulbs and also new ones.

Tried swapping the two wires and the blinker on the driver side is brighter but paring lights same brightness.

Now with parkers on the driver's side when blinker is on its flashing but the other filament is still on. While the passenger side when blinker is on, it only flashes as it should 2nd filament off.

Also I noticed there's a wire connected to the fuse holder near the firewall.

I've attached a pic but its blurry, its the bronze with clear cover top left 1st fuse.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/ ... useBox.jpg[/img]

I tried removing the wire and the blinkers wont work.

 

oh well I tried my best... really stubborn problem!!!

just gonna call a sparky guy to come and fix it for me.

 

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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well you most certainly had a good crack at it. Let us know how your sparky goes. I can't find that wiring diagram but I had a 120y harness in my morris and I found that when the instrument cluster was disconnected the blinkers wouldn't work as the indicators on the dash were in the circuit. So? Do your dash indicators work? By the way this is a long shot as I haven't looked at any diagrams to confirm it.

Cheers

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Yes I'm booking a sparky this week.

I even tried making another or separate horn button with this push button switch.

I connected 2 wire one is earth and one I connected to the stock relay where the original 1 wire connecting to the horn itself and that did not work. I tried swapping the wires as well and no luck.

Am I supposed to wire it in a different way?

The push button switch I bought is just a simple one with two connectors at the back.


I did this cos after putting new earth wire in my steering wheel I noticed the back of the steering wheel (the one with round bronce that hits the bronze looking stud on the column anyway the steering wheel doesnt touch hit the contact so it wont work.

I even tried bashing the steering wheel in but wont go any further and I'm too scared to hit it I might damage more stuff.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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You should never have to bash the steering wheel on. If you slide the steering column cover back (undo a few screws) you will have access to the screws in the blinker assy. There is a screw on the drivers side which allows for slight adjustment up and down the steering column. Just back off the holding clamp srews first. Have a go at adjusting it to make your contacts meet. What you did with the switch sounds good. use a piece of scrap wire and go straight from the positive battery terminal to the horn to see if the horn is working. (With the horn positive wire disconnected from the rest of the circuit). If it works connect the horn back up and use your multimeter, put the black lead on the neg battery terminal and the red lead on the middle contact on the horn relay with the wire still connected(green and white). You should get 12v. One contact should have the horn wire coming off it( green) and the other contact should go to your horn (black and green). With the black and green wire disconnected check the terminal on the horn relay for 12v. If you get both of these voltages use a piece of scrap wire and drop it from the neg battery terminal straight to the black and green terminal of the horn relay.

cheers

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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thanks for that I actually placed the positive wire of the switch to the bottom side of the relay not the middle one do'h!!!

cheers will try that tonight

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Have you had any luck with the indicators, horn etc?

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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I got it fixed

front indicator/parkers when parking lights is on one flashes brighter and one stays on, I thought one should go off so I kinda fixed it before the auto sparky did.

Also he said that my earth for the bulb is corroded so he tidied that up.

Regarding the horn he just disconnected the stock wire coming from the steering wheel and to my switch and earth. I was in a rush that morning he was fixing the car but I didnt want that setup as I would like my original horn to work as I go on later anyway.

but all is good aside from the tie rod issue.

Cost $40 i think its quite cheap for a mobile sparky... but then again it was easy job (for him obviously).

brunop
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Razor & Matti

If you guys need help with this model of datto. l can help you! l have one of these 320 utes since 1998 with the same problems you have . First, datto 320 steering wheels have a problem in working due to the wheel buckles due to the aussie heat? The wheel don't contact (points) properly, They have no space under the wheel due to buckle in the wheel & the horn stays on. You should hear the contacts ''clicking'' when you turn the wheel. This problem is with all this N300-series models to fix the problem is to have the wheel rebuit & razer yours has been worked on by the look it from your photos (1200.com). Maybe staighted sometime ago & has no blisters on the rim or spokes of your wheel. Fuse box, These we do have fun with the original when they get damp. lot of these were replaced with modern fuse boxs, l have wrecked 6 vehicles for parts & all have modern fuse boxs, another fault with this N300 models.

Guys l could go on for hours writing about the problems this model has. l found a original mechanic who worked on my ute when the datto dealer bought (999 pounds was what he payed for it) my ute in 1963. Yes my ute was owned the first australian country datsun dealer in victoria & drove it off the ship in the melbourne port with a 320 van & a 312 sedan. If you need any info or advice on problem please contact me on e-mail- [url=mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url] or Sms message on 0407 819 498 & help you as much as l can. The mechanic friend has passed away recently, but l leant alot from him before he went & l''m in contact with some old datsun persons who have some parts for this model & that includes books on old datsuns & l do alot of swap meets in victoria looking for parts for my datsuns (Bluebird 1200 & B1200) l have. Enclosed is a photo of my ute taken at a ute show, l won best classic ute. l hope it worked.Bruns.:)

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Hi there!

where were you when I needed someone!!!

haha just kiddin'

i got the indicators and a seperate horn button/switch working now

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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[user=140]matti[/user] wrote: [quote]You should never have to bash the steering wheel on. If you slide the steering column cover back (undo a few screws) you will have access to the screws in the blinker assy. There is a screw on the drivers side which allows for slight adjustment up and down the steering column. Just back off the holding clamp srews first. Have a go at adjusting it to make your contacts meet. [/quote]
 

Hey matti, I'm trying to adjust my steering wheel and I had a 2nd read about your post before to make the steering wheel backing and the sprung contact to make contact...

anyway I cant fully understand what you meant, do you undo the one with the bracket that hugs the steering column? or just the round plastic cover right below the indicator lever?

I dont want to undo something else and have a hard time putting it back all together so just want to make sure.

Cheers

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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This is the drivers side of the steering column. The screw you can see is the one which is slotted into a recess in the steering column. Just back it off a touch and the two screws on the other side. Now you should be able to slide your blinker assy up and down the steering column about 10mm.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Sorry about the pic. The screw is right in the middle of the pic. This is a pic of the other two screws I mentioned on the passenger side of the column. Once you have the assy in the right spot tighten them up and see if it worked. The adjustment screw only needs to be backed off slightly, otherwise it may jump out of the recess while you are playing with the assy.

matti
Posts: 241
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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man I'm havin a shocker! here is a pic which is a little clearer. Again passenger side of column. Sorry.:P

odpl_Razor
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm

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Thanks for that matti

I will try this as soon as I get the chance

and will let you know what happens

Cheers


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