Front Cover Install (KA24E)

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Ok, I finally have everything fixed on my car and am ready to put my front cover back on. I was wandering how I should go about this process. The service manual I have does tell how to do so, but it involves many steps I don't have to do. My main concern is the oil pump/distributor/shaft that connects the two. If anyone knows how this is all done please let me know so I can finally get this sucka runing.Ryan


schyawn
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Hey, it's not bad if you know a couple things: Just put the Front cover back on with some new liquid gasket all the way around. (Removing old gasket with scraper. Put all the bolts back in. dont forget the oil pan bolts.

I assume your oil pump is off of the front cover...ok, if not, you probably had a hell of a time getting the cover on. Make sure Piston#1 is at Top dead center on the compression stroke. Use a screwdriver through the spark plug hole. You can also temporarily put the crank pulley back on and line up the pointer on the front cover to the second mark from the left on the crank pulley.

ok. line up the marks (2) on the shaft of the oil pump, and the oil pump spindle. then insert it up throught the hole. Don't bolt it down totally yet, you probably didnt' quite get it right (It took me 3 tries).

I assume the distributor is off, if not, put some matchmarks on it and the front cover so you can line it up when you put it back on.Take it off.

Now, with the distributor off, you should see the end of the long shaft coming up from the oil pump. it has a tab sticking out of the end, this tab should be pointing to approximately 11 o'clock, perhaps a little to the right of 11 o'clock. If not, pull the oil pump out, and try again.

Once you have that tab leaning towards 11 o'clock. you can put the distributor back on. point the contact point of the rotor towards 4 o'clock or so, and then slide it in. If you had the matchmarks, match 'em up. If not, you'll need to set your ignition timing with a timing light. Or play with it a bit to get it running well enough until you do get one.

Tighten down the oil pump and distributor, put everthing else back on, fill oil coolant, etc.

Say your prayers, and start her up. I recommend getting an FSM (factory service manual), but even with that, i had to go to Nissan to get some things clarified before I could finish my timing chain job.

Good luck.Sean

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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Thanks man, can't seem to get any of the local 240 people around here to come and help (Had the same prob with my Fiero. Guess the car people in Jax aren't too friendly). I got off work friday, and get paid also. so ima try and finally get everything done. I'll make sure to let you know how it goes.Ryan

schyawn
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Yeah, I had a few headaches with seized bolts etc, but I could do the job again in a second. It's just that first time. I recommend replacing some seals while your at it too. two small oil seals and the main crank seal. I didn't replace my crank seal, just re-greased it. It's up to you. Keep that KAE runnin'!

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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Yeah, i got a front cover seal sewt from Auto Zone. Came with the two oil seals, a few O-rings, the RTV for the front cover, and the front main seal so I'm good there. I got everything I need for the Job, just need some help with all the physical parts. Hopefully I'll be done with this damn project finally. Bought the car back in May and haven't gotten to drive it yet. As for keeping the SOHC alive, I'm all for it. Hoping to have the fastest KA23E in FL by the time I'm done with it. And with all the power upgrades I've been slowly adding, hoping to pull a sub 14 run in the 1/4 when I get her running. Ryan

schyawn
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oh yeah, remember the front cover and head are aluminum!!! Take it easy on the bolts. Funny thing, when first cracking the front cover off, i missed one small bolt at the bottom left corner of the cover, actually broke a small piece of the cover off when i pried the mother off! but not enough damage to warrant a new cover. Just an example to show you how fragile the aluminum is.

Sean.

schyawn
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KA23? destroke?

schyawn
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what are you going to do the engine to get sub 14? Or is that asking too much :)?

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TheDrumAndTheBass
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schyawn wrote:KA23? destroke?


Opps, I ment KA24, type-o-graphical error. Comes from listening to my TooL bootleg too loud. As for the aluminum I know all about how soft it is. We used a good bit of it on my dads race bike (He used to road race motorcycles). I'm gonna make sure to torque everything down right. As fo power output on MY 240. I plan on keeping the SOHC motor, just planning on adding a Nsport turbo kit for the main turbo booster. Quite a few other things too. I bought a second SOHC block and building it for high boost numbers (high 20's/low 30's). But before I get the done, I'm gonna SCCA road race it in the IT-a series. So look for me in the south east region next year.

P.S. I'm a total post whore, but at least I can admit itRyan

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TheDrumAndTheBass
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schyawn wrote:what are you going to do the engine to get sub 14? Or is that asking too much :)?


No prob. Right now I have ported just about everything in the engine bay. Intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and upper intake collector. Removed my secondary butterflys from the intake manifold. Dropped about 100lbs. Designed a custom ram air CAI system, just waiting to get the pipes back from the metal shop. And within a month, going to install a Co2 intake system. Similar to the DEI Cryo-intake, just custom made so I didn't have to pay out the arse for one. It's funny how eaisly alot of this stuff is made once you do a little research. Soon with the help of my dad I'm going to make a custom exhaust system from the manifold back. If all goes well, I plan on starting my own business making custom performance parts for the 240. So don;t worry, you'll be seeing alot of my stuff here.Ryan


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