ok, some someone said they rated the ATS at high ohms when it's cold and someone else said they rated it at lower ohms when cold, so whats this about?
I now have a 560ohm's and 10k ohms resistor : ) but i'm not sure as to what i should be using, right now i'm using the 10k and i can't tell the diffrences really....
free (almost) timing advance "kit"
Hey I just came across this thread I have a 5k ohms linear potuntiameter in line on one side of my ATS right before my filter On an AEM intake its mounted on one of the bolt to the adapter witch holds on the filter and ATS sensor. This way you can off set the ATS as much as 5 k ohms or back to normal in seconds. This way is better than just stabbing in a 3.3k ohms resistor and disconecting the ATS. If you have used this before you will notice the better throttle responce and a little more HP, More noticable in certain gears but you will also notice that your gas milage will get worse as well. I drive my car for work and play so its good to be able to make this adjustments at your own discretion with the gas prices going up everyday. Also when making these changes wheather just the resistor or the potuntiameter disconnect your posotive battery cable if you wanna notice the chnges immediatly if not you have to drive around for a minute before you will notice it don't ask me why I guess it has something to do with computer reading the singnal. I recomend the 5k ohm potuntiameter it seems to work better than the 3.3k ohm resistor. I've had it installed on my car for months and have friends who have the same set up as well. And this is a very cheap way to increase HP and Throttle Responce.
I think there's a saying that goes for this, your mind is playing a trick on you, you want it so bad your body THINKS you feel the difference, until I see some dyno numbers or even COUPLE seconds shaved off your 1/4 then it's not worth the time. Trust me because you think it your body MAKES you feel it, kinda like thinkin you clumsy, you will get clumsy. I got that from Aladdin. ahhaha
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MaineExport
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Two-Forty wrote: until I see some dyno numbers or even COUPLE seconds shaved off your 1/4 then it's not worth the time. Trust me
Whatever dude!!!
A 30 cent mod that takes 10 seconds to install that takes a "couple seconds" off your 1/4 mle time isn't worth it?????!!! I'd give my left nut for such a device!
Obviously this isn't shaving anytime off the 1/4 mile.... but if it shaved even a fraction of a tenth of a second off the 1/4 mile it would be worth it!!!
BTW.... your theory makes sense, but when someone goes into this being skeptical (not expecting any difference) they are a little more objective. I have tried it and I can tell you there is NO change in HP or torque that I can feel. But there IS a slightly better throttle response (sometimes).
I repeat:
until I see some dyno numbers or even COUPLE seconds shaved off your 1/4 then it's not worth the time.
UNTIL is the key word maine, I meant to say couple mili seconds or hundredth of a seconds, I apologize, anything that shaves "seconds" is of course worth it, i/h/e will only shave about 2-3 seconds off from your stock, and how much did those cost you. The point is im not doubting you guys, but I want to tell you how the mind plays tricks on you, you can always show me some numbers and shut me up, but like anything, you need hard facts to prove a theory. I apologize if I meant other wise.
until I see some dyno numbers or even COUPLE seconds shaved off your 1/4 then it's not worth the time.
UNTIL is the key word maine, I meant to say couple mili seconds or hundredth of a seconds, I apologize, anything that shaves "seconds" is of course worth it, i/h/e will only shave about 2-3 seconds off from your stock, and how much did those cost you. The point is im not doubting you guys, but I want to tell you how the mind plays tricks on you, you can always show me some numbers and shut me up, but like anything, you need hard facts to prove a theory. I apologize if I meant other wise.
Two-Forty wrote:I repeat:
until I see some dyno numbers or even COUPLE seconds shaved off your 1/4 then it's not worth the time.
dude, nothing even under 1000 dollars is gonna shave a "couple" seconds off your 1/4 mile. i'm with maine, just do it. steal 4 quarters from your mom's purse, take 5 minutes out of your life, and DO IT.
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MaineExport
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Two-Forty wrote:I would have to drive couple hours away to her house, the toll alone costs more than what you SUGGEST me to do, why don't YOU GO AND SEND ME the 4 quarters NOW!
Or should I go running to Radioshack and buy it just because big bad red240 tells me, are you ponderiing what im pondering?
Email me your mailng address and I'll send you one for free. Hell I'm so cool I'll pay the postage too!!! I've got 4 left out of the pack of five.
For the record, I completely agree with you. There is no noticable difference, and the slight increase in throttle response is certainly nothing to write home about. It is insignificant enough that it may just be wishful thinking.
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turboweege
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MaineExport
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turboweege wrote:so just curious.....which is better, the 5k pentiometer or just put the 3.3k resistor in there? also, what does the ats read whe its unplugged???
Neither is all that exciting. Try both and see how it goes. I would give you my opinion, but it REALLY doesn't matter enough either way to make an issue out of it.
I was under the assumption that it goes to a default setting and it runs WAY too rich and loses performance. I had mine unplugged for a long time, and this seemed to be the case. However, R240NA has a different perspective.... his information seems to be to the contary. I have not yet heard decisive informtion either way.
The IAT sensor is supposedly for diagnostic purposes only, and does not affect "engine systems". This is somewhat true, however, if the temp reading between the IAT and the MAFS is different, this does change the way the ECU operates... hence, affecting the "engine sytems".
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96_S14_SE
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R240NA wrote:Yes. Unstable-Hybrids, a local shop, has thrown out at least four KA automatic transmissions into their dumpster this year alone. Running it for any length of time disconnected will destroy the transmission, guaranteed. The first person I can remember doing that, back in '96, blew hers apart at the track less than 3 months later. Yes, it does increase shifting response, but it's like shifting a manual without using the clutch, it will cause damage.
Russ, Wasnt her name heather, or something like that? She had a 91 possibly 92 s13 as well IIRC. I forgot I went that far back with these damned S-Chassis cars.
Main reson I never liked disconnecting the "dropping resistor" was you lost all engine braking in 3rd, or OD off. It just slips into nuetral, and when you need to floor it, it lags to match up to the RPM's its supposed to be at. That and the thunk from P to drive and reverse to drive is annoying in the mornings.
I tried it at the track a few times, and got squat as well. Got more from timing advance, elec fan, and even lost more by removing just the funnel to the ram air canister.
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danvertrees
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If you really want an improvment, then create a "box" around the air filter. then plumb a hose that throws cold air into the box. I put a air temp sensor directly on the filter without the air box and found out that at idle you are sucking in air at over 115 degrees. this small and cheep mod created a noticable gain in the low end.
The top of my sensor roke off so I have to do this mod or get another sensor. I have a K & N filter and the think just dangled around the filter. Now the device that measures the temp is off. I just unpluged the thing. With it unpluged what value resistor does it think it has? Which is the best value resistor to get for the best performance and millage. I have a cone filter, header, chip. THANKS THANKS
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justjuiceit
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justjuiceit
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