Flywheel Bolt Madness

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
bradt
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So someone lost my flywheel bolts and I need replacements yesterday. It turns out that M10x1.0 bolts must be the rarest ones ever. ARP makes a set for the Ford Pinto 2.0 litre that seems to be the exact length and thread pitch, but the local performance shops (of course) dont have them. It also looks like VH45 bolts may work. If anyone knows of a suitable replacement please post.


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themadscientist
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pulsar and sentra. They have a motor called the CA18 which is similar to the CA18.

meminto
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Can you order the pinto ones online?

If you need a part number I have it...

mazikowski
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When I sheared one of my fly bolts, I just went down to REID ACE hardware on the parkway (there near Oakwood) with one of them and the nice lady there found me exactly what I needed. Cost me a grand total of like 9c too!

Other than that, you can go for '88 Pulsar SE parts (CA18DE)...

Liquid_Neon
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themadscientist wrote:pulsar and sentra. They have a motor called the CA18 which is similar to the CA18.
LIAR! my SE pulsar never had a CA18 in it....... um.... wait.... LIAR!

mazikowski
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Liquid_Neon wrote:LIAR! my SE pulsar never had a CA18 in it....... um.... wait.... LIAR!
I can honestly 100% without a doubt say that my SE pulsar has never had a CA18DE residing under the hood!

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themadscientist
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E series engine in yours? I forget what the SOHC motor option was in those.

mazikowski
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Ah, you're a keen one! Yet, had it an E16i, it would no longer be an SE but an XE.

Mine is an '87 SE, powered by the wonderful CA16DE Well, used to be powered by a CA16DE. Now it's in the final stages of a CA18DET swap!

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themadscientist
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The CA16 is just an 18 with a 78mm bore.

Liquid_Neon
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mazikowski wrote:Ah, you're a keen one! Yet, had it an E16i, it would no longer be an SE but an XE.

Mine is an '87 SE, powered by the wonderful CA16DE Well, used to be powered by a CA16DE. Now it's in the final stages of a CA18DET swap!
good ol nissan messin with everyone's head by putting a very underpowered engine like the E or GA in a sporty pulsar.Kinda reminds me of the iron duke from another 'sporty' car that failed to live fully up to how it looks (and handles in the case of the pulsar).

Liquid_Neon
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themadscientist wrote:The CA16 is just an 18 with a 78mm bore.
The CA16 models have low impediance injectors, has a smaller flywheel, and the rear seat is a crappy fake leather.

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themadscientist
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You could get 200hp out of a boosted E, they came turbo in some JDM models. Not exactly a doomday weapon but capable of shutting up a mouthy hachi roku.

Liquid_Neon
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themadscientist wrote:You could get 200hp out of a boosted E, they came turbo in some JDM models. Not exactly a doomday weapon but capable of shutting up a mouthy hachi roku.
From what I've seen, TMS, fast AE86's have a ca18 in them

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themadscientist
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Liquid_Neon wrote:
The CA16 models have low impediance injectors, has a smaller flywheel, and the rear seat is a crappy fake leather.
The CA18DET has low impedance injectors, makes no difference.

Pleather, it's better than leather.
Liquid_Neon wrote:
From what I've seen, TMS, fast AE86's have a ca18 in them
no, they have 20 valve twin turbo 4As in them.I smoked the one CA18DET AE86 I have seen with my CA18DE S13.


Liquid_Neon
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N12 pulsars (82-86) were turbo E15's rated at 105hp, in USDM only the '84 were turbo. All other E powered pulsars are E16's with 70hp....

It is a shame since the EXA club folks with N12 turbos have quite a few fast cars. Luckily us N13 guys can get ca18dets and our cars handle much, MUCH better!

mazikowski
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themadscientist wrote:The CA16 is just an 18 with a 78mm bore.
Hey now... no oil squirters or girdle! (or however you spell that thing)
themadscientist wrote:You could get 200hp out of a boosted E, they came turbo in some JDM models. Not exactly a doomday weapon but capable of shutting up a mouthy hachi roku.
The E15ET, sure... but that's EFI. The sad little E16s (all 69hp of it) is barely worth the metal it's made of.
Liquid_Neon wrote:...and the rear seat is a crappy fake leather.
Actually, it's vinyl.

Liquid_Neon
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mazikowski wrote:Actually, it's vinyl.
Same differance I like my cloth rear seat and i wouldnt want it. You could always upgrade the seat with any old junkyard pulsar. The seats come out VERY easy!

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ch187
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just to reply to the thread starter. the pinto arp bolt DO NOT work. i found out that these could work about 2 years ago, bought them and they wouldnt tourque down. the company i got my motor from sent me and auto so they sent me sr transmission flywheel and clutch, luckily they sent the bolts also. and they worked fine.

niscort
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ch187 wrote:just to reply to the thread starter. the pinto arp bolt DO NOT work.
not that i understood anything you wrote after that, but I beg to differ.

how can a m10x1 be different from a m10x1?

they work fine... and if you order a set to suit a cosworth you will get 8 bolts in the pack instead of 6 for the pinto, and just so there is no confusion, Im talking about the english pinto engine, not the pinto car.

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themadscientist
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Could be the wrong length. My Toda flywheel was thinner than the stocker and when I torqued it down the flywheel was still so loose I could wiggle it. I had to grind the bolts shorter.

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JNM240
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Must be because of aftermarket flywheels, because i am using the ARP pinto flywheel bolts and had no problem torquing them down.

bradt
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I tried all the local hardware store and Fastenal, last week and all said the thread pitch was too fine. I needed it for the weekend to drift for a sponsor but was able to use a loaned 240sx. I have time now to get the proper bolts. As soon as I get flywheel bolts, ignitor, a proper oil feed line for my turbo, and the wiring looked over (probably send to wiring specialties for a repair), the motor will be ready to drop.

Car still needs a front Megan street coilover (have 3, 1 was blown), clutch line from master to slave, fenders, hood, and bumper.

Painted the car last week (flat black ftw) and getting sponsor vinyls cut next week. Have pics from the build and will make a thread once complete.

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ch187
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themadscientist wrote:Could be the wrong length. My Toda flywheel was thinner than the stocker and when I torqued it down the flywheel was still so loose I could wiggle it. I had to grind the bolts shorter.
EXACTLY. they are not the right length, tool.

did you personally soend the 30 bucks on the arp bolts? I did. and im telling you, THEY DONT WORK

nuts510
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I came up needing some fly wheel bolts and found that the ones from a 300zx first-generation manual transmission would work....

niscort
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ch187 wrote:
EXACTLY. they are not the right length, tool.

did you personally soend the 30 bucks on the arp bolts? I did. and im telling you, THEY DONT WORK
Is the tool reference directed at me?

If it makes you feel correct by using capitals and calling names, its getting pretty sad.

This topic is about standard replacement flywheel bolts. the standards are 30mm as are the pinto arp bolts.

Your the only person who thinks they dont work, and somehow referenced this experience to the use of a sr flywheel, which is really irrelevant, and yes most cro moly aftermarket flywheels are thinner, even my hks flywheel is thinner, but really thats not the point.... again

Anyhow, thanks for telling everyone.... a few more times and I might believe you too

meminto
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I personally spent the cash for the ARP Pinto bolts for mine. Not only were they the right length and thread pitch for the jdm ca18det, but they also torqued correctly on both my stock flywheel and my billet flywheel.

Maybe the toolish idea was bolting an SR flywheel to a CA motor and then spending cash on the correct bolts for a CA setup, not the hybrid setup that you were sent...

So please refrain from misinforming people that have the CORRECT standard ca18det flywheel setup that these ARP bolts do not work..

bradt
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I did a lot of research on this, and it seems that the pinto arp bolts are indeed an M10x1.00 30mm. Correct thread pitch and length. I see no problems with that setup.

However, I have heard numerous complaints about having to grind down the bell housing and starter issues while using an SR flywheel with CA transmission.

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ch187
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called you a tool for asking " how can a m10x1 be different from a m10x1? " but why are you making a deal out of that? no one ever call you a tool before?

i was referencing to my personal experience. you said yourself most aftermarket and moly flywheels are thinner, so im thinking why would an sr flywheel be thinner than a ca because i had already thought about it and compared it to my ka one. so please forgive me for using my aggressive insights, capitals, and name calling. most people can handle it. you? fail.

all this time i just wanted to hear someone say hey i used these bolts and they worked so stfu. because until today, i havent.

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HighwayStar22
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Well I'm glad you all can argue about bolts.. haha

I didn't get a flywheel with my motor so I have to use an SR20 that I have from my last two swaps, or beg borrow or steal CA flywheels. They aren't exactly floating around. lol

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r34 gtr
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Hey guys in the HSV/Madison area, if you ever have trouble finding a bolt just go to Grainger on Jordan Ln. You may have to buy in bulk but you can always get it. I had to buy a whole bunch of M7 bolts and let me tell you, they are impossible to find. Grainger had them, but I had to buy 50. At least they were cheap.

Ace hardware in Hampton cove is pretty good, as is the one on the parkway, and that hardware store on Clinton downtown usually has everything (except m7).


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