Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

Post by **l0nestar** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:41 pm

Hmm.. So, which block is this based off of?

Post by **Carl H** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:59 pm

its an rb25 awd block...but left over bits from the r33 gts4 which was only available in na form.the plug isnt an turbo oil drain but rather for the vtc drain...threw me off for a sec.the neo engines all are r33 blocks but with the vtc drains plugged, my s13 friends neo block looks like an r33 block but with the plugged drain.

Post by **sickness14** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:17 pm

Carl H wrote:its an rb25 awd block...but left over bits from the r33 gts4 which was only available in na form.the plug isnt an turbo oil drain but rather for the vtc drain...threw me off for a sec.the neo engines all are r33 blocks but with the vtc drains plugged, my s13 friends neo block looks like an r33 block but with the plugged drain.

.

Whats with the "left over bits" thing. and "not built in a factory" about. how could they not be made in a factory when this was offered by nissan as an option in cars. i dont think middle eastern sweat shops custom made AWD neo 6 turbo's for their friends only.

The drain on the block has to be an oil drain for a turbo. the other drain thread thats capped off is the one for the early S1 and S2 motors that had a VTC drain hose. my other neo block has the same drain fitting attached to it.

Is this a turbo neo block, with awd? ok so im still not understanding. Can i use this block in my setup and achieve what im trying to achieve here guys?
Modified by sickness14 at 9:01 PM 4/11/2010

Post by **sickness14** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:16 pm

1. the bottom part of the block where the pan bolts too looks like its got a thicker flange (surface area) on it. looks beefier than my old neo block.

2. the new block looks like it has a wider overall block area than my old neo block. the old neo block on the sides looks like it has webs where each cylinder is and it bows out a little. the 4wd block is kind of flat and the same width all the way down the side of the block.

3. the oil drain port towards the transmission side of the block looks higher on the 4wd block, lower on the neo block. on the neo block, its waaay down at the bottom near the oil pan. on the 4wd block, its up in the middle of the block.

4wd block

my other neo block

Post by **Carl H** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:28 pm

see the pipe thread plug (1/2" drive) on your rwd block as well as the new awd block?that is for the vtc drain in the r33 engine.nissan continued to use blocks it had cast already and plugged up the vtc drain as the neo did not need an external drain for the vtc due to the solid lifters...a neo head is an r33 head with different maching!the unmachined boss on the neo head for the r33's rb25 vtc oil drain is there too, look for your self, above the 1st exhaust port there is an elyptical sideways shape (like a turbo oil drain).

you can use the block supplied...you'll find that if you remove the oil pickup the rwd pan will bolt onto the awd block no problems.just modify the oil pickup and you'll be fine.same issues rb26 guys run into.

Post by **sickness14** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:34 pm

awesome. i noticed the neo head casting had that elliptical flange not used.

so this AWD block has neo pistons, rb26 rods, and the proper compression ratio to be used with the neo head due to the fact that the 1/2" drive block off plug is being used, meaning its a NEO block, am i getting this correct?

lol thx

Post by **sickness14** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:44 pm

dftsilvia wrote:how much for that neo clutch setup? mine is starting 2 slip

ill let you know after its running, i want to make sure i dont need any parts of it yet.

UPDATE____

the water pump, oil pump, head, and cams are all on. the oil pan has been modified and is ready to bolt on.

question for you guys.

can anyone clarify this for me...

RB25 trans/Z32 NA trans use the same clutch/flywheel (smaller)

RB26 trans/ RB25NEO /Z32 TT trans use the same clutch/flywheel (bigger) ?

I may do a pull-push conversion. I've got access to a very cheap 500whp rated clutch for a TT Z32 if i can make this work. can i use my neo flywheel with this Z32 TT clutch disc and cover? Is the RB25neo & RB26 flywheel the same?

Thanks guys!

-John

Website · Post by **meet07** » Mon May 03, 2010 2:43 pm

hurry john and get this thing running so we can represent the rb community in the triangle!! If ya need a hand im always game to getting dirty.

Post by **Carl H** » Mon May 03, 2010 4:37 pm

flywheel is rb specific and is the same for just about all rb engines...however the pressure plate is definately a z32 na unit and a tt pressure plate/disc may not fit as the flywheel is a bit different on the tt engines.
the big hotness right now in the ka community is to get an rb flywheel and use a z33 stock clutch on it, apparently they can hold quite a bit of torque out of the box.

Post by **sickness14** » Sat May 22, 2010 1:29 pm

UPDATE

Does anyone have / know where to get the hardware (bolts ) for the R34 greddy intake plenum?

also missing the following. anyone have this stuff they'd like to help me with?

-NCVS NEO solenoid
-Crank timing gear key's (the two half moon metal pieces on the tip of the crank)
-2 rb25 knock sensors (green ones)
-water inlet for RB25
-dipstick for RB25
-OEM motor mount brackets for RB25
-OEM injector grommets, the big ones that go between the greddy manifold and the injector, not the o-ring

i need to look around and see if i can find this stuff but if i cant locate it, then i'll need all that.

ALSO need help with the timing. the crank is at TDC mark on the oil pump, but the cam gears are not on the timing marks. do i need to take the cams back out and rotate them to a different position to get them to line up with the back plate markings, or do i turn the cams over and set them? ... noob question i know , but i'm learning and want to do it right.

Post by **Cjmartz2k** » Wed May 26, 2010 2:31 am

LOL, here we are again John :-) Email that list to me and I'll see what I can find. I'm busy moving in to my new apartment and working, but I'll hunt around. Knock sensors and dipstick should be super easy. Probably the NVCS NEO solenoid too.

Post by **l0nestar** » Wed May 26, 2010 5:52 am

RE: Cams

John,
CAREFULLY rotate the cams so that they line-up properly. You may have to fiddle with the crank if you start getting interference.
(At least, this is what I had to do when I installed my timing belt many moons ago. Maybe I'm completely wrong. )

Post by **Darius** » Wed May 26, 2010 6:24 am

Be very careful like l0nestar said. I broke a valve because my crank was at TDC when I installed my cams. It is difficult to get the cams to install at the exact degree you want them since the lobes are uneven. The crank doesn't need to be at TDC while the cams are being installed.

How far off are the cam gear marks from the markers on the rear timing cover? A few teeth or a few dozen teeth?

Any way you do it, turn the crank CCW 30* or so from TDC to lower the pistons into the bores, then monkey with aligning the cam gear dots with the rear timing cover, then turn the crank CW to TDC and install the timing belt.

Post by **Carl H** » Wed May 26, 2010 7:54 pm

i have always used the knock pins to determine correct cam installation with my cars and customers cars...its very straight forward to do so...should be in the fsm.

Post by **sickness14** » Sun May 30, 2010 8:58 pm

Engine is back at my house, going to finish her up myself. :P

installed:
-custom oil pan, custom pick up tube
-head oil drain
-oil filter housing
-all water lines under intake mani (not in pics)
-NCVS solenoid
-both knock sensors
-motor mounts
-turbo coolant feed block off
-turbo oil feed adapter
-test fit turbo and mani
-shortened two exhaust studs for clearance
-Z32 fuel filter newly installed.

Still need to:
-find water inlet. (cjmartz2k do you have this man?) and install new thermo from raw brokerage
-install alternator
-strip and paint valve covers, install all front covers (new from raw brokerage)
-install injectors & rail
-install cam seals and main seal (waiting on raw brokerage shipment)
GET ENGINE HOIST time !
-install clutch, flywheel
-drop motor in car. duh.
-install tranny, starter, plug it all in, yada yada.
-install S15 helical LSD. (do i need the OEM viscous finned diff cover?)

new problem... i installed the greddy intake mani and all is well until i test fit the precision 800 cc injectors. the holes in cyl 1 and 6 are slightly oblong where the injector sits into the manifold and it wont go in all the way. looks like i have to take it back off and slightly round the holes using a round file. i'll need a new intake gasket

lame.

also, fuel rail (stock one) is raised higher because of the injectors, so i'll need to either fab up some spacers or buy a new rail. i dont really want a new rail bc then i'll need a new regulator .. ect.

hope i can drop it in soon

Post by **RustspecS13** » Sun May 30, 2010 10:14 pm

Congratulations man look likes your making some good progress! Good luck on dropping it in, I hope it goes smoothly.

~Alex

Post by **l0nestar** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:15 am

I don't recall what the rear of the S15 cover looks like, but I would use the S14 finned cover.
When I installed my R33 unit, I retained the S13 finned cover. Again, I'm not sure what the S15 looks like.. you may not need to, just inspect it before sealing it and bolting it in.

Everything else looks good man.

Post by **sickness14** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:20 am

l0nestar wrote:I don't recall what the rear of the S15 cover looks like, but I would use the S14 finned cover.
When I installed my R33 unit, I retained the S13 finned cover. Again, I'm not sure what the S15 looks like.. you may not need to, just inspect it before sealing it and bolting it in.

Everything else looks good man.

Thanks.
-manifold fixed, waiting on new gasket to reinstall
-engine is in car
-found water inlet
-waiting on cam seals still
-cant find bolts: starter, flywheel, clutch cover. Anyone want to help me out?

Post by **Coolwhip** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:32 am

sickness14 wrote: -cant find bolts: starter, flywheel, clutch cover. Anyone want to help me out?

I should have something binned some where... I'll find what I can to go in your next package.

Post by **sickness14** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:33 pm

Ricky... im speechless. <3 haha.

Post by **l0nestar** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:15 am

John,
Looking good man!

I don't recall the specific dimensions for the clutch and flywheel bolts, but I picked up a set of grade 8 or 10 bolts and went new vs re-using them. (It was under $10 for the six flywheel bolts)

What exhaust header is that, and where are your rockers??

Post by **Cjmartz2k** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:08 pm

Bad a** John! Almost there man

Ryan--I think that's a Stec manifold. BTW, got your email but I can't reply. I only have the internetz at work now and chillin' at gay a** starbucks

Post by **sickness14** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 5:54 pm

l0nestar wrote:John,
Looking good man!

I don't recall the specific dimensions for the clutch and flywheel bolts, but I picked up a set of grade 8 or 10 bolts and went new vs re-using them. (It was under $10 for the six flywheel bolts)

What exhaust header is that, and where are your rockers??

Ah gotcha. I think its either a M12 or M14 by 1.0mm pitch, unsure of the length. Lowes / home depot doesnt carry 1.0mm pitch bolts. hmm ive got to get some, but dont want to spend the $60 for new ones...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-F ... 500wt_1182

The header is an S-tec. i think im going to sell my two 40mm wastegates and get just one 50mm gate. anyone intersted in 2 synapse 40mm gates? one new, one used.

Cjmartz2k wrote:Bad a** John! Almost there man
Ryan--I think that's a Stec manifold. BTW, got your email but I can't reply. I only have the internetz at work now and chillin' at gay a** starbucks

Thanks chris!
I think i've figured out length / pitch of the clutch cover bolts i need, as well as the bell housing bolts. only problem is the bolts i can get at hardware stores, usually are fully threaded vs having a smooth part for 3/4 of the bolt length for strength. ugh i wish i had all the OEM hardware

If anyone has any of this hardware, or info for replacements, id greatly appreciate it.

Post by **l0nestar** » Fri Jun 04, 2010 5:38 am

John, for the flywheel the correct dimensions are M12x1.25 in a grade 10 or 10.9 (Metric equivalent to US Grade 8)

I think I picked mine up from my local Ace Hardware or a specialty fastener shop here.

For OE you want Nissan PN 12315-42L11. Should run you ~$4.50 ea.

Or if you want ARP, here is a link to Scummitt
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-2 ... toview=sku

Says it's for a MR2, but I have heard they are a match as well.

Post by **sickness14** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:30 am

Thanks man!

went to nissan, ordered all OEM flywheel, clutch cover, and bell housing bolts for a KA as they're all the same.

Got the transmission on, but noticed the pig ear brackets dont have anywhere to bolt up to the AWD block. anyone verify when using RB26 block with RB25 trans if these brackets are used??

http://shop.rawbrokerage.com/images/122 ... 30120.jpeg

I need to still find
- driveshaft bolts - bought
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -power steering pump bolts - bought & installed
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -bell housing to cover plate bolts & nuts - bought & installed
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -RB25 dipstick
-EBAY SR20 downpipe
order clutch master cylinder - tried to bleed clutch... no luck. i think its shot.
A32 Maxima insulators. part# 16636-72P00 - Dealership (for injectors to manifold)
Ground cable on alternator
power cable 4ga through firewall to dist block (autozone)

ARRIVED & INSTALLED working on the head drain, i need a -4 to -12AN adapter for the drain hose to clear. (will pick something up tomorrow hopefully)

check clutch release bearing / fork / wedge collar assembly... i think something isnt settled right with the pull type pressure plate, bearing deal. anyone know the correct installation method for the clutch and trans? i put the flywheel on, then clutch disc and cover with wedge collar pulled up, no bearing attached. bearing was left with fork and sleeve inside trans, then put on. is this correct?

Now i went to go put my driveshaft on and with the yoke all the way in the trans, the diff side where it bolts up has a huge gap. Im not sure if i've got a spacer missing or something. its an aluminum non-abs driveshaft shop driveshaft. anyone help?

Still waiting on my raw brokerage shipment on:
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -cam seals, front main seal
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -upper and lower timing covers
ARRIVED & INSTALLED -thermostat

Post by **sickness14** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:10 am

-Finished the head drain
-installed half moon's , valve cover gaskets, valve covers
-tried to install driveshaft... the bolts i have wont work, hex head on bolt wont clear flange.

pix :p

Post by **l0nestar** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:50 am

John,

Coming along nicely. I see you got the drain fixed. Now all you need is a radiator and a DP and you should be liquefying tires, nice and proper like.

Post by **Coolwhip** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:57 am

Nice man! Looks great all cleaned up and installed.

Post by **sickness14** » Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:29 am

edit.

Post by **REDLN** » Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:59 am

yo if z32 tt ds bolts will fit i got some on the parts car you can get.

Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

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