DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
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Beagle_Hauler
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DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby Beagle_Hauler » Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:42 pm

Last night I was driving home from the dog park and nearly got rear ended several times. Turns out not only were my brake lights out (which I didn't know) but when the traffic lights turned green and I stepped on the gas I would go.. nowhere.. Well not quite.. I would creep half way through the intersection before the car would actually pick up speed, and rather slowly at that. After getting home I got online here to see if anyone else had the same issue. Turns out several of us have and once I figured out what was wrong and got it fixed I got right back on the road! Here we go:

Issue: If I was at a dead stop for more than one minute in traffic and then applied power via the gas pedal, Rogue would not move forward from gas pedal input. It would ever so slowly creep forward from the engine idle, which it would do under normal conditions if I would just let off the brake but once I stepped on the gas..nothing. The engine wouldn't even rev. It felt like the CVT wouldn't engage or that it was in some kind of limp mode. If I was moving very slowly, like through the parking lot, I could press the gas and accelerate just fine. If I came to a stop and then pressed the gas within a few seconds I could accelerate just fine. It was only after sitting still for about a minute or more that the Rogue would then refuse to go. A dangerous situation since vehicles behind me expected me to go and the car would only creep forward from it's own idle power. A dismembered legless zombie could drag itself faster than the Rogue... GRRR!

Symptoms: My 2008 SL AWD had it's Skid and VDC lights come on several times last week on dry surfaces while under no duress (ie: straight and level dry roads). There were some potholes and street patches that I had assumed ticked off the sensors, but I was to learn it wasn't being super sensitive and finicky because of the roads. Also, I didn't realize it last night but after checking the 3 stop lights on the rear, None were working. So to recap the issues and symptoms:

1) No power for at least 3-5 seconds from a dead stop after standing still and idling for 1+ minute.
2) NO stop lights when stepping on brake pedal.
3) VDC+Slip lights periodically illuminating during the last few days/weeks. Those lights went out after I started the car the next time so It hadn't worried me, but now I know that it's a possible symptom in the future if my brake light switch burns out again.

Cause: Faulty brake light switch! Yes, a simple little plastic switch above the brake pedal that partially burns out will somehow cause the VDC+Skid lights to illuminate which must in turn report to, or confuse the engine/transmission management system into making the Rogue go into "limp mode".

Fix: Easy! Three minutes with no hand tools or automotive expertise needed. You may need a flashlight and a flat bladed screwdriver if it's too dark and the plug is stuck to the switch. I took several photos to help explain, if you are suffering from this issue (there are other causes, but the symptom of NO brake lights narrowed it down to the brake light switch being burned out/faulty) and wish to replace your brake light switch, you can do it yourself and not pay the dealer upwards of $115 in labor. I base that statement on the fact that the average rate now is $115 and some shops require you to pay a one hour minimum (or in one hour increments) even if it's a five minute job. Your dealership experience may vary and it pays to shop around but this fix can be done with no hand tools and with no experience necessary.

Begin by purchasing a new brake light switch. As of today, October 22, 2011 my dealership had two different parts in stock. They were both the same number but ended in different letters (B vs. C). The newest Nissan part no. is "25320-AX00C". That seems to supersede "25320-AX00B" Both are valid brake light switch stock numbers and I presume as Nissan upgrades parts for better reliability or to use them in new vehicles (this part is used by many different Nissan and Infinity vehicles) that they assign the next letter in the alphabet to the end of the item number to designate the newer or upgraded part. The description on the package is "SW STOP LAMP 99". Cost was less than $40. I purchased the one ending in C as it is the more recent iteration and will hopefully be better engineered and will last more than the 4 years I got out of the original stop switch.

Open the drivers door and move the seat all the way back. You may need a flashlight to see under the dash. Find the rubber brake pedal pad and follow the big thick black steel arm it's mounted to upwards and you will see where it's hinged and where the brake pedal arm has a bracket coming off the side of it. Mounted to that bracket are two white nylon(?) bumpers. The bumpers move with the pedal arm as the pedal is depressed and released. The bumpers engage two buttons mounted to two switches in a static non moving steel plate. When you step on the pedal, the white round bumpers move with the pedal and allow the buttons on the end of the switches to pop out. One of the switches is the "Brake Light Stop" switch and once it's button pops out it sends the signal to the brake lights in the rear to "turn on". Press the brake pedal with your free hand to see how everything works in conjunction with each other, it'll make sense.
Identify the correct switch. On my 2008 Rogue the brake light switch is the one with the WHITE electrical plug attached to it's other end. I don't know what the other switch does (it has a red/yellow plug) and it was slightly smaller than the brake switch.

Image

That's the two switches. This is looking up under the brake/gas pedal area on the underside of the dash, as if you were on your back and looking up. Plenty of room to work in, and not too awkward.

Press in the tab of the connector to the brake light switch and pull up. It should slide off. No tools are needed but a flat bladed screwdriver might help push the tab in you can't do it with your fingers. The edge of a coin or other metal object that won't slip or gouge the connector will do as well. Mine came loose under finger power. Move the plug free of the switch as the switch will come upwards once released. Note how far the switch is mounted in that flange from the white spacers on the arm of the pedal. Those spacers engage the white spring loaded button on the switch and tell the brake lights when to go on and off so you'll want to reinstall the switch at the same 'depth' in the flange, so to speak.

DO NOT try and twist the wing nut style housing that the switch sits in. It's not a nut, it's a plastic mounting flange that the switch fits into. Look closely and you will see it mounted to the static steel bracket. Simply grasp the square housing of the brake switch and give it a turn counter clockwise about 60 degrees and it will come loose. Depress the brake pedal while doing this to take the tension off the white button of the brake switch. Again the pedal in it's resting position is pushing in the white button of the switch and that button is spring loaded. Once you turn the switch to the free position it will slide right out of the wing nut flange. Take a look at the 'threaded' base of the switch. You will see what look like threads, like on a bolt or screw. But they don't go all the way around the shaft. There are matching 'threads' on that wing nut flange. But you don't screw it in like a bolt, you simply turn it like a key and it comes out. How? Look closely as you will see the threads don't go all the way around. They are only on two sides of the shaft of the switch and there are matching ones on the wing nut flange. Once you turn and 'unlock' the switch, the smooth sides of the shaft will be facing the 'threads' of the wing nut and they no longer lock onto each other. It's only whey you turn it back, the 'threads' of the shaft and the nut will lock into each other and hold it firmly in place. I've not seen this system before but it's kinda cool.

Image

Above is a picture that shows on the right (1) the switch before I turned it and (2) after I gave it counterclockwise turn and raised it slightly out of the wing nut flange gizmo. Again: Don't assume that is a plastic nut holding the switch in place. That "nut" is securely mounted to that steel plate and you have to turn the switch by hand to release it. There is no friction once it's been 'unlocked' so if you encounter resistance it's not fully unlocked and you don't want to strip the plastic nut. The switch will slide right out once it's fully unlocked.
Simply reinstall the new switch by reversing the order of diss-assembly. One note of caution: Make sure you put the new switch in with the locking tab "tunnel" on the base of the new switch facing the same direction as before so you don't have to turn the white connector plug 180 degrees around. It's just a caution to aviod putting any extra tension on the wires that could eventually pull loose or cause friction from rubbing and an possible electrical short. Also make sure you install it at the same distance from the white nylon spacers that the old switch was. That is, you can lock it at any distance up or down in that wing nut flange. It needs to have the button on the switch full depressed when the brake pedal is at rest otherwise it will not tell the rear brake lights when to illuminate. If you get it wrong it is very easy to remove the plug, turn the switch and set it at the right height.

Image

Here are the two plugs. There were slight difference between the factory stock switch and the replacement I purchased today. The original one is marked "NILES 3" while the new one is marked "NILES 4". Also, the section that has a raised locking tunnel for the tab on the connecting plug is on the other side of base of "NILES 3" so in the picture it looks like it's missing but in reality it's on the other side of the base of the switch. Thus please heed my comment above to make sure you put the switch in the right way so you don't have to turn the connector plug around when it's time to reconnect the plug to the switch. If you put the switch in backwards you'll make it harder to remove the plug next time as the locking tab will be facing the carpet and firewall and all sorts of other wiring.

Start car, check for brake lights and that they illuminate at the proper time when pressing the pedal (IE: that you installed the new switch to the right "depth" in the wing nut flange), and test drive in a safe area. Once I had the new switch installed, the ole Rogue drove perfectly! I had errands to run, as well as meeting my wife at the airport with lots of luggage and I had NO issues what so ever today. I hope this helps solve any issues you may be having with your Rogue acting like a wet noodle in traffic. ~Beagle_Hauler


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casperfun
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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby casperfun » Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:58 am

If it is any consolation, if anybody did rear end you, it would be their fault since you were experiencing an emergency and anybody behind you must follow a safe distance. But it is still a pain to go through the insurance, body shop and going through the process of repair even if it's not your fault.

Moreover, thanks for this fix since this is a safety issue this is really helpful to know. Even though price is not an issue to me when it comes to safety, if I can change something as easy as a cabin filter then I don't mind doing it. Moreover, saving some money in this tough economy is a plus.

Lastly, I still have your explanation to changing the oil on the Rogue bookmarked in my browser, that was a very helpful post and many in here have benefited from that post too.

much appreciated.
:shifter:

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kerrton
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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby kerrton » Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:37 am

Beagle Hauler thank you so much for sharing that info, that is really valuable insight and the photos are great. That could save a lot of owners significant cash by DIYing this rather than paying the dealer.

I'm interested in the possiblity that Nissan may have upgraded this part to a better more reliable design, if so I may replace mine now rather than wait for the possibility of a failure at an inconvenient time, such as summer vacation road trip etc..

Thanks again for this, I really appreciate it!

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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby philipa_240sx » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:30 pm

The newest Nissan part no. is "25320-AX00C". That seems to supersede "25320-AX00B" Both are valid brake light switch stock numbers and I presume as Nissan upgrades parts for better reliability
Not necessarily. There are a few reasons why they can change:

- To differentiate between several suppliers of the same part.
- The old part is no longer available and is substituted with a different one
- The part was changed in a later model year

In this case, the part did indeed change in June 2008 (production date) and the same is still in use today.

25320-AX00B - 2007.08 thru 2008.06
25320-AX00C - 2008.06

Digging a little further... Nissan uses this switch in nearly all of it's models. The old one was in use from about 2006-2009 (production dates). Since then, the new part has been substituted. If course we will never know why it was changed.

You are certainly not the only one on this forum who has had issues and it's quite possible more vehicles than just the Rogue are involved.

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kerrton
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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby kerrton » Mon Oct 24, 2011 4:47 pm

I should also have mentioned that while the DIY tips are appreciated, attempting any of this is at your own risk. NICO club doesn't necessarily endorse everyone performing work like this themselves, it requires some mechanical aptitude and knowledge, and as with anything in life there is always a chance something will not work out right. If you are at all uncomfortable with this, Nissan service is the best bet, although they charge for the work it is guaranteed to be a successful repair.

JonRossTaylor
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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby JonRossTaylor » Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:28 am

Had this exact problem on my girlfriend's 09 Rogue SL, this procedure fixed it. Many thanks to the OP.

However, this has happened at least once before - can someone explain what, exactly this switch does? Would it be possible to bypass it? This seems like an incredibly poxy and potentially hazardous design.... depriving the car of all power as well as the inherent warning that the car is going to be slowing / stopping at the same time. Having such a potentially dangerous situation hinge on a part which is apparently quite prone to failure is not very comforting.

I purchased the replacement from an autoparts store which warranties it for life, however, I am a bit concerned that it will die again suddenly and leave her/us walking to the nearest part store, cursing Nissan the whole way... When it died this time, it died at a stop in a "valley" between two hills, and would not go up either hill for love or money. (I could rock the car forward and backward 10 feet or so within the valley, which did produce a nice soothing effect on my chafed nerves, but didn't really accomplish much other than that.)

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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby califasrams » Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:47 pm

Good Day everyone. I'm brand new to this forum and need some advice.
We have a 2009 Nissan Rogue SL. I noticed last night that the brake lights are not functioning. I've read the posts about the brake light switch (white connector) behind the brake pedal.
Question: Why would the cyclops light work when the brake pedal is pressed and not the brake lights'? Would it still be the same switch and is this a dealer only part?
Thanks

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Re: Fix for "no power from dead stop" issue

Postby ImStricken06 » Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:32 pm

califasrams wrote:Good Day everyone. I'm brand new to this forum and need some advice.
We have a 2009 Nissan Rogue SL. I noticed last night that the brake lights are not functioning. I've read the posts about the brake light switch (white connector) behind the brake pedal.
Question: Why would the cyclops light work when the brake pedal is pressed and not the brake lights'? Would it still be the same switch and is this a dealer only part?
Thanks
burned out bulbs. just change them

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Replacement"no power from dead s

Postby ImStricken06 » Thu Jan 03, 2013 7:55 am

PS: just added this awesome write-up to our do-it-yourself hall of fame. lol

ROGUE DIY/ FAQ/ FACTS/ REPAIRS/ MAINTENANCE/ GLOSSARY

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby MorganAlex86 » Tue May 21, 2013 5:48 am

Beagle_Hauler> THANK YOU. My 2012 Nissan Rouge died in my parking garage waiting for the gate to open, before work... I had to have 2 cars, back out so I could roll my car back to a spot in shame. I was so stressed about how a tow truck would get to my car, let alone the cost with an unknown issue. Googling my car's symptoms led me to this site, and my boyfriend with me as a flashlight holder fixed my car in 3 mins flat. I cannot thank you enough, for a wonderful write up, pictures and for fixing my car!!!!!!

you rock.

Morgan

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby ezb57e » Fri Jul 04, 2014 4:47 pm

Yes, the earlier brake lamp switches are not so great. We see a fair number of earlier Altimas that wont start because of a bad stop lamp switch, and they have since produced a countermeasure sub-harness to keep the new one working. I think the sub-harness limits the current through the contacts of the switch.
Saw a Rogue with the low power concern just Monday. And yes, it had no stop lamps either.

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby Razz02748 » Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:19 am

Thanks for great, helpful post...you were dead on. First dealer did not have part, second dealer did, exact match, $49.00....Took 5 minutes and was fixed...if you are ever on Cape Cod hit me up I owe you a drink!

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby bangsters » Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:36 am

Hello. I know it's a bit of an old thread. This also happened to us a while back. Lost power totally entering a ramp, had to press and release brake then gas again and it worked again... could this brake switch also be the cause of the shift gear button not allowing to release from Parking?

My brake lights are still working, but the gear button no longer allows the gear out of parking and had to override it with the DIY found here: diy-stuck-shifter-wont-come-out-of-park ... 54005.html

COuld it be that the shifter not allowing to release from Park is related to this parking switch as well??

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby Beagle_Hauler » Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:53 pm

Hi Bangsters. I don't know if the two are related. I am not a Nissan engineer or an electrical engineer. I do wish I was more familiar with the interlock design, if I was I could comment on your issue with some clarity. As it stands, all I do know about it is that it could sometimes break and if I recall the cost was $1,000 or there abouts to fix. So lets hope that interlock is not acting up. It's hard to get the fascia off from around the shift lever but I recently pulled mine up to check for dog hair ("Beagle_Hauler" is my moniker, and we used the Rogue to haul our hounds around in so it could sometimes get quite hairy..Or should I say "furry" in the cabin...I was doing a THOROUGH detail to prep our 2008 for sale) but guess what? I found one stray strand of fur down in the shifter mechanism. This after some 6 years of hauling my Beagles around in our 2008 Rogue, so I was pleased with the dust covers effectiveness. Anyway, perhaps you could remove yours and make sure no soda spilled in there or that some other funkiness isn't gumming up that shifter interlock mechanism. I would be more than happy to try and experiment on my Rogue but we don't own it anymore. Two months ago we sold it and then purchased a brand new 2014. This one has the push button start and as nice as that is, It doesn't have any way of turning on just the "electrical" power for opening the sun roof or lowering the windows, etc. At least no way that I know of anyway. I searched around the net just now regarding this issue and found some Altima forum sites as well as some Honda sites and they report either gummed up mechanisms or blown fuses (dome light fuses in particular) so you could check your fuse box and make sure all fuses are not only still good but seated firmly. I know for fact that sometimes those interlocks can be cleaned. My coworker has a 1995 Honda Civic and recently he couldn't get to work because his shifter wouldn't move from park. He ended up towing it his mechanic and it turned out to be a gummed up interlock mechanism. I recently had to clean my Suzuki's parking brake switch. It was all sorts of hairy and sticky. When lowering the parking brake handle it would engage a simple push button switch which would turn on the daytime running lights. Well my daytimes were not turning off at night when I raised the parking brake handle when I got home at night. Sticky switch was the culprit. Could be yours too.
Good luck, I do hope you can solve your issue in a timely and inexpensive manner. ~Mark the Beagle Hauler

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby bangsters » Sun Sep 14, 2014 2:50 pm

Thanks for the reply Beagle Hauler. I myself have a dog, Siberian Husky, and he sheds so much that the carpets need constant vacuuming lol....

Anyway, just to update you guys, YES it is related. I ordered the brake light switch, replaced it, and removed the DIY override, and whallaaa it works! So 138K miles and she still runs like a beauty. Although I'm prepping her and cleaning her up as I'm about to give em to my inlaws since I have upgraded to an Evoque. But it's been a very mice 138K miles the Rogue has done for me and my family.

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby Mexirean » Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:38 pm

Beagle you the Man/Woman!!!! You perfectly described the issue to a T. THANK YOU for saving me a trip to the shop! My issue was fixed just that easy. :woot: :bowrofl: :dblthumb: :wavey:

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby fanito » Thu Aug 11, 2016 12:17 pm

Hi there! I know this is an old topic but your pics are gone. Any chance to reupload them please?

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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby leppertrj » Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:06 pm

This information is invaluable! About 3 months ago, I replaced the transmission on my 2008 Rogue SL AWD. The symptoms before I replaced the transmission mirrored the symptoms described above - except eventually the car threw several codes which indicated a transmission problem.

Now .. a few months later - the symptoms reappeared with the new transmission. When I had it towed to the dealer (fearing it was a transmission issue I didn't take any chances driving it) and they indicated it was indeed the new transmission and was covered under warranty. Now ....almost 2 weeks later ... they indicated have found the culprit (at least for the second failure) was the brake light switch and not the transmission as previously reported. BTW, before you throw the dealer under the bus for keeping the car for almost two weeks - they gave me a brand new 2016 Rogue to drive for 2 weeks while the "transmission was being repaired". It remains to be seen what exactly they are going to charge me for this latest repair.

My question ... is it possible the first transmission failure was due to the Brake Light Switch issue? I only drove it about 5 miles after the first sign of trouble (just enough to get it to a safe spot to tow) but I can imagine a computer telling the CVT to prepare for braking while I depressed the accelerator could possibly cause some damage. The transmission had over 135K miles and it did throw the transmission codes the first time (did not throw them this second time) so it is possible the first was definitely a transmission issus. Just wondering if this brake light switch defect could have caused the destruction of my transmission or if the transmission didn't have to be replaced. Another note here is I drove the new transmission for almost 4K miles and it didn't act up at all.

Your thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

delayjf
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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby delayjf » Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:17 am

First of all I want to thank beagle hauler, as his advise not only worked but saved me a lot of money by not having to pay a mechanic to fix the issue. However, I do want to share my experience changing the brake light switch so that others might learn from my experience. One of the main things I discovered is that you need to insure that the switch was installed so that the switch button opened and closed all the way, otherwise it would not operate properly.

Like many have posted here, my 2010 Rogue was having the same issue with a slow acceleration from a stop and at times my VDC+Skid lights would illuminate. I was also informed that my break lights were not working. So, after reading this piece I went and purchased AutoZone's version of the brake light switch - my reasoning was that why should I buy a switch from the Nissan dealer when it was already clear to me that the Nissan switchers were defective, plus the AutoZone switch was cheaper (35.00) and had a lifetime warranty.

So, I purchased the switch and then endeavored to replace the brake light switch myself. Normally I'm apprehensive about doing something like this when I have not seen an example of the procedure. So I was surprised with how easy the switch came out. All I had to do was rotate the switch to the left (rotating towards the outside of the vehicle) like one would when loosing a nut. The switched popped right out with a little pressure. I found it easier to separate the switch from the wire plug attached to the rear of the switch after the switch was out of the bracket - that way you could pull on both the wire plug and the switch at the same time to separate the two.

So I simply inserted the new switch into the wire plug and reinserted the switch back into the bracket - I thought to myself, WOW it really was that easy!. But, not so fast. After I changed the switch the first time, my brake lights would not shut off. I figured I had installed the switch too far into the bracket and the switch button was not fully extending (and shutting off my brake lights) when I took my foot off the brake pedal. No problem, I went back underneath my dash, again twisted out the switch just as before and reinstalled the switch by lining it up (length wise) with other switch that was attached to the same bracket. This time, the lights operated correctly but worse, my brakes would not release when I attempted to drive the car. I immediately pulled the car over in a parking lot and attempted to reinsert the switch as close to the other switch as I could. This time, the lights worked and the brakes were operating correctly. OUTSTANDING.

However there was an unexpected issue that was resolved by changing the brake light switch. Like some have mentioned here previously, my gear selector was stuck in park and in order to put the car in gear, I would have to pull the small plastic cover off the gear lock release located right above the P on the gear indicator. I would then have to insert a long thin object (I used a key) into the hole to depress the gear lock level so that I could move the gear selector out of park. Apparently, the brake switch has something to do with the gear lock mechanism because the gear selector was now operating properly as well.

Perhaps a mech on this board could explain what all that brake light switch does, because installing a new one fixed everything that was wrong with my Rogue. I would like to know what was causing my brakes to not release. But at any rate, all in right in my Rogue world. My car now accelerates properly, the brake lights work, the brakes work properly, and the gear shift no longer gets stuck in park. Thanks again BH.

wyfesROGUE
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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby wyfesROGUE » Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:33 am

Perhaps a mech on this board could explain what all that brake light switch does,
Not a mechanic, but I have a couple ASE certifications.

In most modern cars, as a safety feature, the operator needs to depress the service brake pedal in order to be able to shift into a gear.

The signal to the computer system that the brake is being pushed is via a switch, typically the same switch that signals the system to illuminate the brake lamps. In some cars, there may be two or more switches monitoring the service brake.

If, for whatever reason, the signal doesn't come from the service brake pedal, the computer will not allow the transmission lock to disengage. It's not a bug, it's a feature so that little kids won't be able to shift the car into gear.

As previously stated, most console shifters have a mechanical override, usually very near the shifter, and typically covered by a small oval plug. Your owners' manual will tell you more.

gracefulbear
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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby gracefulbear » Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:09 pm

Hello Beagle_Hauler! You just made my day, perhaps my year(!). I am having your exact issue with my 2010 Rogue and thanks to Google, I found your post and just ordered the -C stop lamp switch for delivery tomorrow. I have two questions which i'm hopeful you can answer: 1) the photos which you had originally used in your post are showing as dead links . . . is it possible that you have them still and can repost? Having photos would be really helpful! And 2) if installed incorrectly and twisted beyond 60 degrees, what would the outcome be of an electric short? I just want to make sure I'm not potentially endangering myself by doing this myself (I'm extremely handy, just being overly cautious).

zengshengliu
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Re: DIY: Brake Light Switch Issue "no power from dead stop"

Postby zengshengliu » Fri Jul 14, 2017 6:56 am

I just replace my switch recently, and the twist is just for mounting the switch to the mount. Turning it counter-clockwise about 45/60 degrees and pull it out, and the opposite direction when installing. The wire connection, you just need to press the tab and pull to disconnect.
FYI, the part I got is 25320-AX00E


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