Nice!
Driving around with an open downpipe is quite fun.

Haha yeah it is. This turbo is really loud, my car sounds like a turbo diesel truck now.

It still idles really high and stumble when I tap the gas, I'll check to see where the vacuum leak is tomorrow. My oil pressure gauge is also still not working, I replaced the sender so it might be the gauge itself. I've been running a mechanical gauge off my turbo feed line, but now that there's a turbo there I don't have anywhere to tap into for a pressure reading. Another thing to fix tomorrow I guess.

I think I have some extra oil type fittings, I'm pretty sure I have a brass block with 3-4 ports on it. I'll have a look and see if I can find it. You want?

I have a spare electrical gauge that I'll try first, but if that still doesn't work I'll let you know. Thanks man.

Ka-t lyfe. Fixed my downpipe as well as found a bunch of vacuum leaks. A few couplers were leaking, my wastegate line was leaking, and my egr block off plate was leaking really badly. I ended up sealing it with rtv instead of a gasket, hopefully that fixed it, I'll find out when it dries.

I saw a RX7 pick up 40whp by replacing all the old vacuum lines etc. Granted that's an unusual case but still goes to show how much vac can effect things. The above pic reminds me of my place when I was over on Okinawa, accept it was all R32 Skylines and one R31. All in various stages of taken apart on any given day.

My wife used to get so pissed when I'd bring car parts inside the house to work on. I ported my head on the washer/dryer/workbench...lol. Unfortunately those were pre digital camera days for me, that's the one thing I really regret about Oki.

Haha I still have a lot of days like that, between my housemates and other friends someone is always working on their car.

I think my idle issues are related to a vacuum leak, I need to hook it up to the air compressor one last time before I finally rule that out. Idle still goes from 1500 to 2k then drops back down, here's a video of it. Earlier I unplugged my TPS and it stopped the surging but went up to 3k. After plugging my IACV line it went back down to 2k but that's still higher than normal cold idle.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSZY243Z ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

Well I fixed my vacuum leak, turned out to be the egr plate...again. I went to start it up after fixing the leak and my fuel pump didn't prime, looked at my gauge and the needle had fallen all the way down. Checked the harness and the prime wire and fuel level wire are shorting out. The priming wire is shorting out somewhere between where the engine bay relay and where the harness passes the driver's seat, I didn't check the cluster wire but I'm assuming they're both shorting out in the same place. I'll pull the driver's fender off tomorrow and check for a short there, not sure where the cluster wire splits from the rest of the harness though and the diagrams aren't helping very much.

Electrical problems? Ouch.

Hey Chris, is that the software you're always talking about? How does your laptop interface with the ecu? Plug/play? Same for my 95? If so I so need to get that s***. I always tune via knock meter and wideband, never knowing what's going on behind the scenes.

Also, for the EGR I just installed the EGR pipe back in place after I cut the tube, crimped it closed and welded that biatch.

Yeah, it's ECU Talk software. It's a consult to USB cable, plugs right into the laptop. You can check and clear codes, view any available sensors, and if you have Calumsult or Nistune you can grab the .bin file and take a look at your tune. Since it's a read-only chip you can't edit anything but it's great for troubleshooting. Not sure if s14's have a consult port though, it might only be OBD.

I've been blocking off my EGR with an ISIS blockoff plate, even after using rtv it didn't seal. I put the stock housing back on with the paper gasket and got it to seal this time. As far as the fuel pump I've been meaning to hard wire it for a while, I guess now I have a reason to do it. The 12v switched power wire isn't shorting so I'll use that to trigger the relay and run a new wire straight from the battery to power the pump. I still want to find the short in the fuel level wire, screw not knowing how much gas I have. If I have to I guess I'll run a whole new wire from the cluster to the pump.

Chris28 wrote:Yeah, it's ECU Talk software. It's a consult to USB cable, plugs right into the laptop. You can check and clear codes, view any available sensors, and if you have Calumsult or Nistune you can grab the .bin file and take a look at your tune. Since it's a read-only chip you can't edit anything but it's great for troubleshooting. Not sure if s14's have a consult port though, it might only be OBD.

I've been blocking off my EGR with an ISIS blockoff plate, even after using rtv it didn't seal. I put the stock housing back on with the paper gasket and got it to seal this time. As far as the fuel pump I've been meaning to hard wire it for a while, I guess now I have a reason to do it. The 12v switched power wire isn't shorting so I'll use that to trigger the relay and run a new wire straight from the battery to power the pump. I still want to find the short in the fuel level wire, screw not knowing how much gas I have. If I have to I guess I'll run a whole new wire from the cluster to the pump.

WHAT!!!! consult to USB cable ecu talk ....how the heck did i miss that! Got a link or website i need to get some info on that big time! Doesnt consult have the ability to alter idle values and id imagine it could perfrom reflash for dealer use right? Im gonna have to def. look into that as ive almost got my motor all sorted out.

http://www.ecutalk.com/

You can't change anything, just view it. Unless you have an eprom emulator chip (Nistune, Calumsult, Nismotronic) you can't flash any new data to the ecu.

AWESOME!

I saw nismotronic on their web site is it anygood or just a nistune variant? Same price ....550$ eh...

I messed with k-pro on my buddies rsx today awesome stuff!!!! SO MUCH STUFF YOU CAN MESS WITH does nistune have all those options too? (full throttle shift/launch control/evap code disable/knock sensor flash when detected*)

I probly just need to SEARCH thanks for the great info. there!

Not sure about all the features, searching would be your best bet.

On a hunch I opened up my ecu to see if the eprom had fallen out, turns out the daughterboard was a little loose. Put that back in snug and it holds a steady cold idle at 1500, still running super rich though (11.3 idle afr). Tomorrow I'll check the injectors, it's possible I have a torn o-ring which is why it's running so rich.

nistune allows you to tune the bin file on the go making tuning super fast and easy. ecutalk/nissan data scan/etc. allow you to scope out sensors some are more feature rich than others, my NDS lets you make trims that stay in effect until the engine is shut down,unfortunately you cannot change the maps just trims like +/- 2* timing temp changes. I couldn't get ecu talk or calumsult to work with my cable(well half working but that's lame). The main thing is being able to access the maps real time to see exactly where to make changes, it moves self tuning along very well.

Yeah chris 9/10 of the time when the pump doesnt prime its a loose d/b or chip, hotmelt glue the board in if its a permanent install. I pull my board every time currently, pita... I have very heavy levers on my zif sockets.
my plan is to run a 9" acer netbook for my gauge cluster, but it wont boot from usb cd drive or fash to get xp on it.. go figure...

I've toyed with the idea of using a netbook or something to use for gauges but I already have the gauges I need and I'd rather not have to deal with installing it haha.

I hard wired my fuel pump in yesterday, I'm temporarily using my rear defroster switch as the relay trigger . I was using a fuel pump harness wire that I tested to be getting 12v but for some reason it wasn't triggering the relay so in an effort to get the pump to turn on I just plugged it into the defroster plug. This was before I found the daughterboard issue so I'll rewire my relay signal to the fuel pump and see if it works now. I was getting pretty frustrated yesterday when on top of all my other problems my fuel pump quit. Hopefully the running rich issue is an easy fix.

Alright, here's tonight's diagnosis. I replaced all my fuel injector o-rings, that didn't do anything.

Daughterboard fell out again, that's one of the reasons I was running super rich. With the daughterboard out I have a steady 1500 rpm idle at 11.1, daughterboard back in and the idle goes back and forth from 1500 to 2000.

Fuel pressure is 45psi with the pump priming, once the pump stops priming however pressure immediately drops to 20psi and slowly bleeds off from there. Should it be dropping that quickly? I just replaced my o-rings but I didn't use OEM ones, maybe the Advance Auto o-rings are leaking.

Timing is steady at 22 btdc, it's not dropping off to 0 every time the idle falls like it used to do but the injector pulse width goes from 2.5 to .82 when idle falls, then back up to 2.5 with the idle.

I can try replacing my FPR, I'm running out of ideas though.

Im kind of shooting from the hip here.

If your fuel pressure just drops off and you replaced your injector orings and dont smell/see any obvious leaks. I would assume your fuel pump is bad as i believe there is a check valve in it. On that note i did research while back on dual fuel pumps in parallel finding dual walbro set ups. Many believe that if one fails the other will create a leak per say and fuel pressure er....volume? will drop creating a lean condition and obviously BAD. THIS HAS BEEN PROVEN TO BE FALSE ON MANY FORUMS OVER AND OVER AGAIN FROM WHAT IVE FOUND. <<<<< check valve*

That would also explain irregular idling. Also even tho pressure is good volume can be not up to par RARE but ive heard of it happening. There is charts for walbro 255 output volume at specific voltage and pressures. Also i found there is walbro 255 HIGH PRESSURE and standard walbros! When browesing 240sx walbro they often do not state high pressure or not so check your part numbers. (this is not really important if your not going to have high fuel pressure) NO thats not just the fmu guys stock fpr is a 1:1 so if your runnin 20psi boost + 42

anyways good luck!!!!!!!!!

AND DONT GO BELOW 1/4 TANK WITH ~3X THE FUEL PUMP VOLUME stocker is a 80lph seen 2 of my buddies walbros die in last few months LMFAO

It could be the fuel pump, but I'm running rich, not lean. Fuel pressure is around 43 at idle, the FPR seems to be doing it's job by regulating the pressure but I'll throw a stock FPR on later today to see what happens. If that doesn't change anything I'll pull the rail and prime the system to see if there are any leaks that the o-rings didn't fix.

Question would be why is the FP so high? Or is the 43psi without vaccum?

43 was with the pump priming so no vacuum, I had a friend check it while it was idling and he said it stayed around the same, I'll verify it later and lower it to 32 psi. Could the extra fuel pressure make that much of a difference?

Certainly don't think it would be helping. Should be 33-34psi at idle on vaccum.

Just started it up a few minutes ago and it held a steady 2500 rpm, afr's were around 14. Lowered the pressure to 33 psi, afr's were right around 15. After about 30 seconds however the idle started stumbling and it went back to it's normal 1500-2k idle surge. Drove it around a little and it's still hitting a wall of timing right when the wastegate opens at 15 psi. AFR's are still around 11 in boost. Maybe it's ignition related? I'll see if I can find a spare distributor or ignition coil.

Quick dumb question, I thought fuel pressure was supposed to be 43 psi?

43 psi without vacuum, around 33 psi with vac.

I adjusted the throttle plate stopper screw on the throttle body, I now have a solid idle at about 1k. I'm still pulling timing in boost, not sure why though. I'm going to diagnose a few things tomorrow, not really sure where to start though seeing as it's holding idle. Maybe a trip to the junkyard for a new tps is in order...could the tps pull timing under load?

#2 dumb question, so if I have a AFR with a gauge than with the car at idle it should read 33 psi? And with the car off and the ignition on with power to just the fuel pump it should be 43 psi? Not sure how many pins your tps has but I got I couple I would send you for free if you cover shipping. I'm about to strip 2 spare motors to scrap and will probably endup selling all the sensors or keeping for spares

At idle should be around 33psi, same it pump is just priming. 43psi should be seen while idling and the vaccum hose is pulled off the FPR.

Sidewayz, I'll definitely throw you a couple bucks plus shipping for a TPS, Advance Auto wants $50 for one and I'm not even sure if that's my problem. My email is [email protected], shoot me an email with your paypal and I'll send you some money.

You should never have to adjust the throttle stop!!!!! If you couldnt get idle to drop down enough with idle adjust ment screw you def. have a vacuum leak! < or like your already on to a fueling issue

Im putting money on fuel pump still.

You dont want to start boogering with a ton of sensors and stuff. It ran fine before hand correct? Maybe recheck your work mabye exhaust leak o2 sensor not connected all way/ somthing melted....