Finally fixed and now she won't start.... Stumped...

[Jerrybrown5081]

Ok, I'm stumped and need some help here... For the past several months, car had an idling issue. Would idle for a minute then idle super low and die out. Finally was able to get through and fix the issue, it caused my plugs to go out as well as ripped up some seals in my fuel rail, all replaced. Last weekend, finally got her together, she started and idled fine, but there was a dip in the idle when you'd hit the throttle. So I shut her off to investigate and one of the fuel injector seals had gone out and it was spewing fuel everywhere. They were only a few months old but like I said, that issue had ripped up a lot of seals. So, pulled her apart, replaced the seals on all the injectors, made sure everything else was new and in good order, put her back together same as before.... And she won't start. She turns, she's getting spark, fuel being pumped and the injectors are firing, I'm baffled. Everything worked fine, I just pulled the injectors and replaced the seals to fix the one that went bad.... Any help? I'm completely lost as to what could have gone out between last weekend and now.... triple and quadruple checked all my connections, wires and what not...

1996 Nissan 300ZX TT
Converted to OBD1
Selin dual intake
Ash Massive Intercoolers
2.5" Intercooler Piping
Greddy Boost Controller
740CC Nismo Injectors
Stage 3 RPS/SZ Clutch & Flywheel
SZ Turboback Exhaust
SZ Chip Tune
Spitfire coilpacks
Walboro 485 Fuel Pump

[MrFeesLaw]

I notice a lot of people have viewed this post without giving any input... I think there may be a lack of information.

Honestly, it is hard to say without more info, such as, are there any DTC's (Codes)? Does it make any weird noises? Like a hissing, or ticking. Anything like that would be helpful. If you don't have a scantool, I understand you can't go anywhere to get the codes read, but there are several videos on youtube about jumping the #7 and #14 terminals on the obd1 system together to force a manual output of the codes on the dash.

^^^In basic terms, take a wire and jump the power and ground on the scan tool connector for about 5 seconds or so. This will cause your check engine light to flash you numbers. if it flashes 5 times, then pauses, then flashes 3 times. That's a code 53. It will be followed by a longer pause, and then the next set of numbers, or if it keeps repeating 5 and 3 (or whatever numbers) that is the only code.

You can look up all Nissan OBD1 codes on google and they will give you a general idea of where the problem is. Once you have that, if you still have questions as to what the problem is, the forum may be able to offer more help.

I also notice you used to have an OBD2 car. Did you swap the harness, the ECU, and all control modules to OBD1? Or just the harness? OBD2 was when Post-Converter Sensors became mandatory for all USDM vehicles, so not having those rear sensors hooked up would cause problems... I'm sure there are other immediate differences in the systems that would also cause problems if the ECU and the harness were not of the same generation.

Good luck!

[DaKow]

You say fuel is being pumped and injectors are firing. Do you mean you checked for signal using a noid light? Are you sure there is fuel at the rails? Did you plug a fuel line to do the injector repair and forget to fix it?

[DaKow]

Just throwing stuff at the wall. Hope it helps the brainstorm.

[MrFeesLaw]

^^^agreed. When you say you have injector pulse, do you mean you have seen the fuel come out of the injector?or just have seen the electrical signal telling it to happen?

If you can answer some of these questions it will help narrow down the cause of the trouble A LOT!

[Jerrybrown5081]

Hey everyone,
Appreciate the responses, I just got sent off for the week for work so haven't been able to mess with her. I'm looking into how to pull the codes now and will do it when I get back Saturday.
As for the fuel system, we heard it priming but went ahead and pulled the line after the fuel filter and turned it on to see if it pumped out fuel still and that was good. For the injectors, I pulled the CAS and rotated to hear the clicks from the injectors and it sounded good.

Also, no, never plugged any fuel lines during it. Although fuel is all I can think of since thats really all I messed with much :P

With the OBD1 conversion, harness and ECU were swapped, pulled out all the sensors not used by the OBD1 system, haven't had any issues with the swap. Used a harness by specialty wiring designed for the conversion and a used OBD1 ECU with a SZ chip tuned for the work I have done to the car.
Thanks!

[Jerrybrown5081]

Also, heres a video of my spark test. Looked good to me, but this was my first time using one of these so if thats not right lemme know. Thanks!

https://youtu.be/UBV3ko5j_XE

And the CAS test for the injectors... Stopped after 6 when I did it this time for some reason.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBDwWLta4T4

[MrFeesLaw]

Hey everyone,
Appreciate the responses, I just got sent off for the week for work so haven't been able to mess with her. I'm looking into how to pull the codes now and will do it when I get back Saturday.
As for the fuel system, we heard it priming but went ahead and pulled the line after the fuel filter and turned it on to see if it pumped out fuel still and that was good. For the injectors, I pulled the CAS and rotated to hear the clicks from the injectors and it sounded good.

Also, no, never plugged any fuel lines during it. Although fuel is all I can think of since thats really all I messed with much :P

With the OBD1 conversion, harness and ECU were swapped, pulled out all the sensors not used by the OBD1 system, haven't had any issues with the swap. Used a harness by specialty wiring designed for the conversion and a used OBD1 ECU with a SZ chip tuned for the work I have done to the car.
Thanks!

Sounds good so far. Let us know what codes you come up with if you get any!
Good luck!

[Jerrybrown5081]

Ok, so, finally got back home and went to pull the engine codes according to the directions posted here... 300zx-z32-ecu-diagnostic-t249406.html

However, isn't working for me. When I flip the car to Acc the light doesn't go on, if I turn it to on it may sometimes flash once and thats it. Turning the screw doesn't do anything at all. Only time I can get that light to turn on really is when I turn it off it'll flash three times before it dies... That's all.

I also got a OBD bluetooth plugin to use with the Nissan Data Scan app, wanted to pull codes and what not with that. However, it isn't working properly either. Everytime I connect it it will connect for barely a second and then read INI failed at the connect status... Any ideas? I've never done much with computer s*** in regards to cars.

[DaKow]

That may be your problem. If the engine light will not flash, maybe try substituting a known good ecu. Also, are you saying you have a dlc which is obd 2 style? And that is supposed to work with an ecu which is obd1?

[Jerrybrown5081]

Negative, everything is for OBD1. Cars been completely converted so it runs an OBD1 ECU and everything I have for it is for OBD1.

As far as the ECU, can't substitute another ECU since mines tuned specifically for the modifications I've done to the car... There anyway to test it? Not really sure how it would magically go out, but I've seen weirder things with cars...

[Jerrybrown5081]

http://www.nissandatascan.com Went here, selected the DataScan 1 for android and went to the supported adapters and got the first one on that page. Should work in theory, but, you know, 300zx :P

[Jerrybrown5081]

There any relays, wires or what not I should check/swap first that could cause my ECU to act up?