ffrpwner wrote:
AMS Manifolds
AMS Race Pulley
AMS Wp Pulley
AMS Radiator
AMS Racing Fuel Rails
AMS Oil cooler
AMS Race BOV Kit
AMS Silicon Radiator Hose
AMS Silicon Intake Hoses
AMS HICAS Eliminator
Personally, I'd skip all that garbage. I'm not startin shiz, but AMS is a jokeshow of a company. Do some research and judge for yourself:
- Manifolds are garbage and made from a mystery metal that AMS has not disclosed. They even shipped a pair with a hole in them
see here
- WP pulley doesn't fit properly. Suggestion: the HI Water Pump pulley with an ASP underdrive pulley from
Import Parts Pro
- The Koyo radiator works just fine, and isn't overpriced.
- Please do not trust this jokeshow company with something as critical as your fuel system. The 300° rails are the only option for an upgraded side feed configuration. There are two options available for the top feed. Win Factory and BDE. Personally I'd chose BDE.
- Oil cooler? There are better options available for the same or less money. AMS' oil cooler can be had on eBay all day long for $125 less than they charge, because they just rattle can it black.
- Their BOVs are a knock off of the Turbo XS RFL BOVs. BOVs don't add power and are never necessary at any power level. No offense intended, but judging on your personal preference of a FMIC for the look of it, you probably want the BOVs for the sound. Just understand there's no performance benefit
- The rest of the stuff doesn't increase power, and you can get the Z1 products (a NICO sponsor BTW) for the same or less money.
AMS doesn't innovate; they offer poorly copied "me too" products made in China with little or no quality control. They don't employ any engineers. How can you "design" new products without engineers? Oh yeah, you can't.
/rant.
(I really don't want to derail your thread, but had to get some truth out there. You're new to the Z scene as far as I can tell, so it's not your fault you didn't know this stuff)
IMHO, to reach your goal of 450RWHP, which is a reasonable goal, I'd suggest the following:
Exhaust side:
JWT Sport 530 turbos, or Z1 GT600R
MSP manifolds
Specialty Z 3" expansion Down pipes
Specialty Z 3" -> 2.5" test pipes (to retain your current cat back)
Intake side:
Selin Dual MAF translator
Dual JWT POP chargers
GReddy, Z1, AshSPEC Massives or Stillen SMIC
Fuel:
Keep your 555's and do the switched 12V mod.
Electronics:
Blitz SBC-ID boost controller
Apexi SAFC
Traction control (if desired)
Information:
Electronic fuel pressure gauge
Boost gauge
Oil Temperature gauge (others would argue for more accurate water temp and oil pressure gauges, and those are options too)
Hardware:
New clutch and why not a new flywheel. Specialty Z and Southbend DXD have some great clutch options. But the RPS/SpecialtyZ flywheel is the only game in town.
A 1pc driveshaft only reduces static weight and has a minimal effect on engine revs. IMHO, I would only replace yours if the center bearing is bad, or you get an insane deal on an aluminum or CF driveshaft. Otherwise there's no point.
Do some preventative maintenance on your car (60k service if it needs it) get some new plugs and hit the dyno and tune. 450RWHP on pump gas with those mods is easily attainable.