where's the bad info???zakmartin wrote:I've noticed a lot of bad info on the Rogue Forum as it relates to the vehicle's brakes.
there is a rebuilt kit, i just didnt feel like going that route. if you spend the money getting the kit, to find out your piston is rusted, or the cylinder is pitted/rusted. not even worth the effort.I've never seen a caliper that didn't have a rebuild kit. I'm surprised that they're saying it's OEM replacement only. How many parts places did you call? Even the FSM shows you how to re-build a caliper. That alone makes me think that somewhere, out there, there's a kit available. Maybe you can call Courtesy Nissan Parts and see if they have something to sell you.
while i agree, but lets be real here - most shops use a c-clap. if done slowly and without applying much pressure; it wont crack your caliper. the piston can be pushed back in with your hands; so slowly using a c-clap isnt applying enough pressure to crack the caliper. the pressure from using your braking is much greater, and if that doesnt crack the caliper = i doubt a c-clap slowing working a piston will.shade tree mechanic would use a c-clamp to push the piston back in during a pad change. You should never put pressure against the cylinder end of a forged caliper. Use the special tool to retract the piston. It's like five bucks at Sears. A c-clamp is NOT a brake tool.
there are a lot of methods to bleeding. some go right/rear, left rear, front right, left front. some do the total opposite. as long as you do one of those - versus just any at random - you will be fine.Also, something needs to be said about bleeding brakes. Refer to the FSM. and bleed in this order: Right rear, front left, left rear, right front. Don't let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop below the minimum line. When you're done, fill the reservoir to the max line, re-attach the battery, and you're good. Don't pretend that Nissan didn't spell out this specific procedure in the FSM because they thought it was hilarious.
It is NO PROBLEM to mix DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1. All you will do is end up with specs that are between the two in terms of boiling point, etc. What you CANNOT do is throw DOT 5 (silicon based fluid) in with any of the others.Use only DOT3 (synthetic is fine)
on street cars, we are talking very minor temp ranges.Finally, regarding the bed-in procedure that was posted earlier, each type of pad has its own specific bed-in procedure. Ceramic is different than semi-metallic, which is different than organic, etc.
unless you are talking about carbon ceramic(which is beyond rare unless you are at the track); and except for some motorcycles and karts, all ferrous discs are made from cast iron - an excellent material for the job.Types of rotors may come into play as well.
the ticket issue, is not for us to discuss. its not even worth mentioning. ots obvious to anyone that its risky. going from 60-5mph 8 times is just fine, if you allow for a few mins of cooling in between each cycle.Going 60-5mph 8 times in a row is a good way to cook street pads (and a good way to get a ticket). That is an aggressive bed-in that would only be useful on a big brake / racing kit.
while i agree, i just have to correct you = its not 1000lbs, its 653lbs LOLRemember, the brakes on the Nissan Rogue came off of a Sentra-R. In other words, they were made for a small car. When Nissan added 1000 pounds to the mix, all they did was ensure that the brakes would be short-lived.