We literally just filed a report with Nissan consumer affairs today ( in PA ) about our caliper/piston problem at 43k (has been an issue we kept taking in for and just got raped on new pads--would have replaced ourselves but don't have the right tools or space). I will let you know what happens. I'm sure they monitor these forums and obviously it isn't a random issue.

darylzero wrote:Tell us how you really feel
Sounds like someone is moving to Texas

trust me, you dont want me too LOL im pretty darn conservative (but with an understanding heart. i love good people; no matter who. i love animals, and refuse to hunt.)

anyway, got 1 caliper in today (according to the tracking at least) more on that later!

so the front left brake caliper i got was "semi-loaded" and its in great condition. fresh exterior boot, (cant see the interior seal but i assume its new), exterior of the caliper is in new condition, it came with mounting hardware, new boots on the pins, new crush washers for the hose banjo-bolt, etc. $81.00(shipped) (plus i will get a $45 cash back if i return my old calipers/core)

HAPPY JULY 4TH TO EVERYONE! ITS MY DAY OFF, AND YET I AM STILL IN MY GARAGE LOL i got new rotors today. here are all the parts/supplies/and part numbers if anyone is interested.

so far i got:

• 2 Pro-Stop new rotors $45/each PART NUMBER: 44592G
  2 New/rebuilt Centric calipers $81/each(shipped). (with a $45 refund if i return my old cores) PART NUMBERS: 141.42158 (LEFT) & 141.42157(RIGHT)
  new Pro-Stop brake pads set$40isn now (full front job) PART NUMBER: PD1338
  grease
  brake cleaner spray

THE IMPORTANT GREASE FOR THE PINS, BACK OF THE PADS, AND ANY SPOTS MAKING CONTACTS. (MORE ON THIS IN THE UPCOMING INSTALL VIDEO)

Sweet! Looking forward to your write-up!

Replaced front brakes 2 weeks ago with POWERSTOP from carid.com but didn't touch rear ones. Last week was at checkup for transmission because it's making the same noise as 2 years ago. Same dealership told me it's my rear brakes. FTW? "We can cut the rotors and put new ones for $329.99+tax." No thank you I'll do it myself. Tried to replace them today but I can't remove the rotors. Any suggestions on how to remove them if they stuck?

Leo2005 wrote:Replaced front brakes 2 weeks ago with POWERSTOP from carid.com but didn't touch rear ones. Last week was at checkup for transmission because it's making the same noise as 2 years ago. Same dealership told me it's my rear brakes. FTW? "We can cut the rotors and put new ones for $329.99+tax." No thank you I'll do it myself. Tried to replace them today but I can't remove the rotors. Any suggestions on how to remove them if they stuck?

never done these before. i hear the e-brake is inside the rotors themselves acting like a drum-brake.

ImStricken wrote:never done these before. i hear the e-brake is inside the rotors themselves acting like a drum-brake.

Yeah. I heard that too. Found a lot of different ways on how to remove it but this one seems to be pretty cool way to remove them. I'll try it tomorrow. If anyone have a better idea I'll take it.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs[/youtube]

ImStricken wrote: never done these before. i hear the e-brake is inside the rotors themselves acting like a drum-brake.

I replaced my rotor 4 months ago.
One thing to make sure is that the parking brake is off
I used a 4lb hammer to get it off. It wasn't stuck as bad but a couple tap with the hammer make it lose so I can remove it

zengshengliu wrote:One thing to make sure is that the parking brake is off

good point. easy to forget. i have my trusty 4lb mini-sledge from harbor freight that will use

I'll be following this write up for when it's time to change out ours.

im also making a video for the full install.

Nissan replaced the caliper labor and freight for free (good will repair). They would have replaced the pads and rotors too but we had aftermarket ones on from Firestone. Also found out Firestone put wrong pads on that nearly destroyed the back rotors. Also had a botched alignment from tires plus who left a bolt loose that would have ultimately knocked out the rear suspension. So, I'm done with alternate shops. Wish we were in a spot to do our own just don't have the space anymore

Good luck to everyone else!

Silverfrogs01 wrote:Nissan replaced the caliper labor and freight for free (good will repair). They would have replaced the pads and rotors too but we had aftermarket ones on from Firestone. Also found out Firestone put wrong pads on that nearly destroyed the back rotors. Also had a botched alignment from tires plus who left a bolt loose that would have ultimately knocked out the rear suspension. So, I'm done with alternate shops. Wish we were in a spot to do our own just don't have the space anymore

Good luck to everyone else!

AWESOME! chain-style shops are always staffed by young morons. find a great local mechanic.

DID I EVER TELL YOU HOW MUCH I HATE LIFE? lol/jk

did both front brakes today in the 95 degree heat.. what a total b!t(h.

here is a teaser pic, video to come soon!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMMyS6igo1Y[/youtube]
Brake Pad Bedding: "The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7

to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded."

Great How-To! Thanks ImStricken!

ImStricken how about updating the gallery with pics of your Rogue with the new calipers on it??

darylzero wrote:ImStricken how about updating the gallery with pics of your Rogue with the new calipers on it??

i hate my car. no new pics.

totally kidding, lolololol. i will get around to it, soon enough. iv been so preoccupied with so many things all at once. having to keep up with 3 days minimum of physical therapy per week, these brakes, now the rear brakes, ms.imstricken, etc. spent all day saturday in nyc hanging out entertaining "HER". as soon as im around; i will

ImStricken, do you have to replace the shims or can you reuse them?

darylzero wrote:ImStricken, do you have to replace the shims or can you reuse them?

you can re-use them. i would just clean them up, and re-lube them properly. if they are rusted brittle, i wouldn't reuse them then.

Good to know thanks man!

So this bulls**t happened to me today also!!

ImStricken, or anyone, if I put everything back on the way it was is it going to be ok to drive until I get a new caliper?

ImStricken in the pic above is this what happened to you? ^^

hey sorry i missed this post/pic! yes buddy, thats EXACTLY the bullcrap that i had. you can chase that boot all you want, it will NOT go back in. you go to squish one side, and the other pops out. that caliper is needs either a boot & seal replacement (but if you find a rusted/scorn piston - the whole thing needs replacement; so this process isnt worth it) or the whole caliper needs replacement.

this HAS to be the reason why so many people go in for only brake pads, and are having their calipers need replacing as well.

yes, if you put everything back exactly how you first found it - it will be fine till you get a replacement. you will need to pump the brake back up to the pistons last spot so the boot isnt pinched and torn.

ImStricken wrote:yes, if you put everything back exactly how you first found it - it will be fine till you get a replacement. you will need to pump the brake back up to the pistons last spot so the boot isnt pinched and torn.

Thanks bud! Yeah I put it all back and did exactly that and it's working fine. Looks like i'm ordering 2 new calipers ugh!!

Did you change your rear brakes and have a problem?

darylzero wrote:Did you change your rear brakes and have a problem?

i have the pads, but im not in the mood to find out bad news from those calipers.

I hear ya.

I've noticed a lot of bad info on the Rogue Forum as it relates to the vehicle's brakes. Before some of you were born, I worked at a shop doing brakes, tires, tune-ups, oil changes, HVAC, etc.. After a few thousand showers, I decided that life wasn't for me and went to college.

That being said...

I've never seen a caliper that didn't have a rebuild kit. I'm surprised that they're saying it's OEM replacement only. How many parts places did you call? Even the FSM shows you how to re-build a caliper. That alone makes me think that somewhere, out there, there's a kit available. Maybe you can call Courtesy Nissan Parts and see if they have something to sell you.

I've replaced boots much worse than what's in the photo on this string. You're not going to have much luck massaging the boot back in. You need a wood block and some compressed air and then pop the piston out of the cylinder. You can hone the cylinder with stones if there's any light pitting or rust. Replace any seals and the boot and replace any crush washers. That's it. It only takes a few minutes to repair these. I'd only replace a caliper if it was cracked (from experience, this usually happened either when the car was in a wreck or when a shade tree mechanic would use a c-clamp to push the piston back in during a pad change. You should never put pressure against the cylinder end of a forged caliper. Use the special tool to retract the piston. It's like five bucks at Sears. A c-clamp is NOT a brake tool.

Also, something needs to be said about bleeding brakes. Refer to the FSM. You can get it online at http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/. Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before you start the bleed procedure, otherwise, you'll put up an uneven load on the ABS actuator and electric control unit (attached to the right rear firewall) and your brakes won't be happy. Use only DOT3 (synthetic is fine), and bleed in this order: Right rear, front left, left rear, right front. Don't let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop below the minimum line. When you're done, fill the reservoir to the max line, re-attach the battery, and you're good. Don't pretend that Nissan didn't spell out this specific procedure in the FSM because they thought it was hilarious.

Finally, regarding the bed-in procedure that was posted earlier, each type of pad has its own specific bed-in procedure. Ceramic is different than semi-metallic, which is different than organic, etc. Types of rotors may come into play as well. Your best bet is to go to the Tirerack website and look up the specific bedding/burnishing procedure for the type of pad you bought. If you replaced your pads and rotors with factory pads and rotors, then refer to the FSM bed-in procedure. Going 60-5mph 8 times in a row is a good way to cook street pads (and a good way to get a ticket). That is an aggressive bed-in that would only be useful on a big brake / racing kit.

Remember, the brakes on the Nissan Rogue came off of a Sentra-R. In other words, they were made for a small car. When Nissan added 1000 pounds to the mix, all they did was ensure that the brakes would be short-lived. It was a money-saving corporate decision to use under-sized brakes from the Sentra parts bin (the Rogue is built off the Sentra platform). If any of you are scratching your heads wondering why your Rogue needs new brakes every 20,000 miles when every other car you owned could go 40,000 miles, well, there you are. If that makes you angry, then write a complaint to the NHTSA. If they get enough of them, maybe they'll do something about it.