Exaust Manifold glowing orange

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
cswilson
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I have an 1990 Axxess with a ka24e that is having a few issues.The water temp sensor(or the gauge is not working), it idles a little rough, when 1st steping on the gas there is hesatation and a drop in rpms and not much power(it cant make it up a set of ramps without taking a short run, and last but not least after taking it for a 5-10 min drive the Ypipes are so hot they are glowing.

Anyone have any ideas?


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deviousKA
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You need to adjust your timing. Im not familiar with the access but timing should be set to 10-15 degrees btdc.

cswilson
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Thought it might be the timing.Am curently borrowing the service manual from nissan, did some checks, my engine collent sensor is dead, my TPS has a bad spot, and the idle sensor is fried, I have all on order and should be here tommrow.

Thing is this book tells everything but HOW to ajust the timing, is just says to move the cam shaft possistion sensor. not how to move it. for the axxess it is 15 degress BTDC +/- 2

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Checkered-Member
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cswilson wrote: my engine collent sensor is dead, my TPS has a bad spot, and the idle sensor is fried,
that’s some list you got...sorry to hear about your trouble

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deviousKA
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cswilson wrote:Thing is this book tells everything but HOW to ajust the timing, is just says to move the cam shaft possistion sensor. not how to move it. for the axxess it is 15 degress BTDC +/- 2


Find the notch on your main pulley/damper that is 15btdc (hopefully your book shows this) mark it with some white out or nail polish. hook a timing light up to your #1 spark plug either on the cap or the plug itself (spark plug must also be able to operate). clip the timing light to the +- battery terminals and start it up. point the light at the pulley and adjust your distributor until the pointer on the timing chain cover matches up with the mark you made earlier. This is the basic idea, to move your distributor (your book calls it cam position sensor? why i dont know) loosen the two bolts for adjustment.

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corn322
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not to be rude, but could you get a picture of the manifold glowing like that?

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deviousKA
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does he have to justify it? you have never seen glowing red hot metal? Actually not a bad feature if your car has no cigarette lighter

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s13ofdoom
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sorry to hear how did it go?

cswilson
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still havent installed the parts, they ordered the wrong temp sensor, turns out that the temp sensor tehy did order was the one for the gauge(it is dead to) but had to then order the one for the computer. Was talking to a friend of mine that has lots of experance with forigien cars and he thinks that the mixture may be way to rich do to the computer thinking that the engine is always cold. Which of course is the sensor that I still havent got.

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deviousKA
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i really cant see all of those sensors being bad? if it is runnin rich all the time and you suspect it is the cold warm up, you should check the connections first. This has happened many times to my various ka's as well as my customers. the cold warm up sensor and injector will only get signal when car is warm, otherwise they stay on. Clean the electrical plugs with acid, then neutralize with baking soda and water. If the plugs appear clean, bend them in so they fit tighter. This is a common problem for ka's so thats why im suggesting.

If any of your plugs appear corroded, 85% chance this is your problem

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p00t
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also the cat may be very clogged up, causing higher exhaust pressure and temps

NateDogg
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I bet one or more injectors are leaking. Therefore the O2 sensor is telling the ECU to stop injectors from injecting, creating a lean mixture in some cylinders, and the red hot exhaust manifold.

Check your plugs. If they're wet you know where to go.

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deviousKA
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the ecu wont stop injectors from injecting. If there is an injector leak the ecu will go into fail safe mode if anything, which delivers enough fuel.

an injector pressure leak could cause to low of fuel pressure> possible lean condition. I think he would notice or smell a pressure leak though

JustinM
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I agree w/ pOOt, plugged cat OR it's just running too damn lean. Don't drive it much, your valve seals will be shot...Justin

cswilson
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Installed the new sensors. still glows orange, but the engine temp is staying normal.

I have tried it with the cat disconnected aswell

Altiman94
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where is this idle sesnor you are talking about, and did those sensors fix your idle?

Altiman94
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i too have rough idle and really want it fixed. btw, if you have aim, im me , i think i could use your help. thanks a ton

daniel240
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p00t wrote:also the cat may be very clogged up, causing higher exhaust pressure and temps


yes i would check this, my friends car had a clogged cat. and it caused his exhaust to get so hot his car caught on fire and destroyed the whole thing.

cswilson
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Yea its all fixed.

Got a friend of mine to do the timing, it was so far off it isnt funny, My thoughts are that it jumped a tooth or something. it need to be set to 15+/-2 D BTDC and with it set as far as it can go it is just barly 15

it was set as far the oppisit way as it could go about 10 D ATDC of the damn thing was still running I have no idea

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deviousKA
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Cool man, glad to hear you got it fixed. If/when you plan on moving a tooth remember that the oil pump is geared and what moves the distributor, so it has to be removed from the bottom.

daniel240
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yea its a good thing you got it fixed cause you could have done some serious damage.


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