engine sputters dont know solution

[gmendoz7]

alright guys i have a s14 sr20det in a s13 body this is my problem i was capable of pushing 12 pounds but when i reach 5 to 7 pounds it sputters like if the engine is getting to much fuel or not enough i put a nismo fpr at the right psi setting with a gauge my injectors are fine they dont leak and they spray fine and they do not drip i cant find a solution a solution online or think of one

any one know what might be the problem oh and i checked the spark plugs as well they are fine the are correctly gapped

[T-rev]

probably a boost leak

[grubby27777]

check your grounds, sometimes a bad ground will cause a weird intermitent problem

[gmendoz7]

checked both and still does the same thing any other suggestions

[moyea]

I had a similar problem with my instal; in fact, I had just about every problem you could think of. Here is how I went about it:

1. Check for vacuum/boost leaks and I mean really check hard. I found the IACV had lost its screw and was leaking. I also found a silcone coupler that ripped open and was leaking. Check your aftermarket boost gauge and make sure there is no leak in the line or fittings (i.e. your fittings should have teflon tape on them).

2. Check for exhaust leaks especially before the turbo. Either at the manifold or the turbo inlet. I had a gasket leak at the inlet and it wouldn't spool the turbo correctly.

3. Check timming, compression, and your other basic diagnostics. Go over the car with a fine tooth comb again. You would be surprised how many stupid things came up when I inspected the car two or three times.

[gmendoz7]

good thought but wont be able to do so since i just fried my ecu up but will repost my results see what happens but mi still thinks it has to do with my fuel and plugs see what happens what you guys think bout the plug and play aem ems

[moyea]

How did you fry the ECU?

What kind of fuel pump are you using? Tried a injector cleaner or octane booster ?

And didn't you say the spark was fine?

Let us know.

[black240sx96]

i know how you feel....i have the same problem...i put new spark plugs checked for boost leaks (found 4 small leaks) fixed them and still the problem is there i am at a lost...brand new ecu brand new couplers and clamps brand new bov the whole nine...and still a problem...if you find out whats wrong with yours let me know...and visa versa..

[black240sx96]

still having issues if anyone can help

[black240sx96]

heres a video to help explain...the oil gage doesnt work so dont worry about that...listen to the car and take note that my foot is on the gas the whole time except when im about to turn..and the ssquealing...thats just the tire rubbing against the wires what pop the hood...so....yeah...any takers ??? btw gmendoz7 is this the same problem your having ???

[93bluecoupe]

ive had this problem twice. once it was my spark plugs gapped to big. try gapping them to .028. the second time i havent been able to figure it out. everytime i get to 12psi it just falls flat on its face and misfires on multiple cyl. if anyone has any other ideas let me know. ive tried air leaks. maf. coolant temp sender. new plugs.. maybe some other stuff. 3 people now with this problem. anyone have ideas?

[sbird1]

Sounds like maybe a faulty ECU? Perhaps the a/f ratios are not being sent correctly. Maybe one of you has a friend with a nice running SR who you can borrow an ECU from? IDK on this on...

[black240sx96]

my ecu is damn near brand new...dont have any others...i just rechecked my spark plugs everything seem to be ok there....and timing seems to be right on..

[black240sx96]

ok...no takers ?? no one knows what can cause this....i have a video and everything...im going to cry...

[black240sx96]

i did another boost test and found that my brand new greedy bov type rs (pile of ****) was leaking out the top screw and the vac screw...what a piece...so now it got a little better but still breaks up just not as often and at higher psi...so now when i do my test i have to up the psi and check for leaks because i really think its a boost leak that i am just not finding

[jaco]

how did you perform the boost-leak test?

[black240sx96]

how did you perform the boost-leak test?

first i made this ....then i took my maf and filter off and put the contraption i made at the end of it...connected a compressor to it...put it at about 14 psi (im only running 9-12 psi of boost...and checked for leaks on EVERYTHING with soap water while the engine was cold....then i did the same thing when the engine was warm WITHOUT soap and water...just checcking by ear...and fixed all the tiny boost leaks....then i test drove it and still the same thing...except now my battery light came on so now im going to take off my alt. and see if i get it checked.

[black240sx96]

ok....well the altenator is perfectly fine....took it off and had it tested...anything else i should be checking for ???

[black240sx96]

anyone ???? anyone ??? where are all the techs and the people that build these things from the ground up huh ???

[boro drift]

Are you running the stock or a front mount intercooler?

[black240sx96]

Are you running the stock or a front mount intercooler?

fmic

[boro drift]

Ahh, I still have the stock unit and just tonight I found one of the end tanks was leaking so badly I could only get 1psi with the leak test. Dang, hoped I had some useful info for you.

[black240sx96]

Ahh, I still have the stock unit and just tonight I found one of the end tanks was leaking so badly I could only get 1psi with the leak test. Dang, hoped I had some useful info for you.

you have the s13 sr or s14 sr ??

[boro drift]

S13 redtop

[black240sx96]

someone help please....ive been working on my car for the past 3 days with little sleep and busted up hands...

[black240sx96]

ok and here are some more info......battery at idle is 13.6 voltage...maf voltage is....white wire is 1.14volts and black wire with white strip 13.75 volts...tps... white wire is .189volts light blue with red stripe is 5.09 volts at idle,....tps without the car running just in the on possition is blue w/ red stripe 5.09 and white wire is .25 volts.. closed and wide open is 3.90 volts...in the on possition the coil pack harness is 11.5 volt across the board on the middle wire...maf voltage on the on possition black wire w/ white stripe is at 11.5 volts...let me know if you guys need any more voltage from anything and ill gett it..or if my voltage is wrong..

[boro drift]

According to the fsm, tps voltage with the throttle closed should be between .35 and .65 volts. This is with the the key on and the engine not running. Make sure you are testing the right wires. I messed this up the first time and bought a new tps that I probebly didn't need.

[black240sx96]

According to the fsm, tps voltage with the throttle closed should be between .35 and .65 volts. This is with the the key on and the engine not running. Make sure you are testing the right wires. I messed this up the first time and bought a new tps that I probebly didn't need.

and if it is low ?? i have to replace the tps ??? because it seems that i have low votage on most things but i just took off my alt. and i had it tested and it charges fine...but usually when i test for voltage...i test all the wires just to make sure that the gound is the gound the signal is just that and the power is that which it is supposed to be...and/or do i need to adjust the tps to get the right voltage ?? if it is giving me low volts....

[black240sx96]

can anyone help ??

[Hijacker]

Your TPS voltage looks off.

You should be at ~.5v closed and ~4.0v open. The LG/R wire should be a 5v supply, B should be ground, and W shoudl be signal.

Quote »As the name suggests this lets the ECU know how far open the throttle is. Although this is not the primary load sensing device (as it can be with some aftermarket ECUs) it can upset things pretty badly if it's faulty or not adjusted correctly. It consists of a potentiometer (just like a volume knob) that rotates as the throttle is opened and closed. It has 3 pins. The ECU feeds 5V to one, 0V to the other and a voltage somewhere in between is picked off and sent back to the ECU.

Adjustment : This can either be done manually with a multimeter or by plugging into the Consult Port with a laptop and reading it straight off the screen. If using a multimeter it must be done with IGN ON (engine does not need to be running) and the connector fitted to the TPS. You'll need nice sharp multimeter probes to pierce the insulation on the wires - it often pays to give them a quick sharpen with a file/grinder etc. Carefully probe the 0V wire (Black) and the signal wire (White). With throttle closed you should be seeing 0.5V. The spec is 0.35V to 0.65V but it's nice to have it right in the middle. Adjustment is done by loosening the 2 screws that mount the TPS - NOT by using the throttle stop screw.

Checking : While you're at it slowly open the throttle - you should see the voltage increase smoothly to just over 4V. If you see any sudden changes (to 0V or 5V) then I'm afraid she's knackered and it's off to Mr. Nissan with you. The Consult Port is extra handy for doing this check as you can log the TPS value while you drive the car - and then check the trace for any drop-outs later.

Autos : These use a different TPS. It has 6 wires. Half of it still functions the same as the manual 3 pin TPS so all of the above still applies (but wire colours are different - you'll need to measure between the Black and White wire). The other half of it goes to the auto trans to aid in determining shift points. For some reason the TPS in auto vehicles is notoriously unreliable. When the auto trans half of it goes faulty the auto will have trouble shifting. Unfortunately the main TPS part also goes dodgy very quickly. They seem to suffer from moisture ingress. Once this happens it's all over.[/quote]Once you adjust the TPS back into spec, you should be fine.