well i got it to .53 after tighting it....still sputters and runs like crap...anything else i should check for ?? also i was checking my maf and it seems to be way off...how do i go about fixing that... ?Hijacker wrote:Your TPS voltage looks off.
You should be at ~.5v closed and ~4.0v open. The LG/R wire should be a 5v supply, B should be ground, and W shoudl be signal.
Once you adjust the TPS back into spec, you should be fine.
ok...about the maf wiring...im pretty sure it was done correctly because the car was running fine a month and half ago maybe 2 months...(i dont think i haave mentioned this in this forum before) but here it goes...the car was runnning fine for about 2 months after i got it...i drove it to work one day...did my full days work and then when i went to drive it home....the sputtering and non boosting actions started to take place...so i drove it home nice and easy non stop and started to check for the obvious boost leaks...that didnt work so i took off the safc2 and disconnected the battery...then the next day tried again...and nothing...and thats where to story began...now...the maf its just reading wired voltage...it says at idle the voltage should be at .8 - 1.5 v on the fsm but im reading like 14.9 and 11. something jumping around...i dont think i can get a totally acturate reading because the way the car sputters at idle sometimes....and im testing the number 1 wire thats black with a white stripe...just like the fsm says (except the part of black w/ white stripe) fsm doesnt specify colors....Hijacker wrote:What do you mean by way off?
My next suggestion was to make sure the MAF plug was seated properly, and if the plug had been converted, to make sure that the connections were soldered and shrink wrapped properly
i did gap it to the .028 and the harness is perfictly fine and the ground wire i just relocated it right where the fsm says it should be...and all my coil packs tested out ~1ohm and they all get the power at 11 volts and all are grounded great...btw i am checking these at rechecking everytime i post...thank God for lap tops...lol93bluecoupe wrote:ok like i said before make sure your plugs are gapped to .028. i am currently swaping my sr20 from one shell to my new car. and i took apart the coil pack harness and noticed the 4 coils all have a junction that goes to one wire that bolts on the back of the head. i noticed the connection looks kinda crappy. maybe you could try to ground each coil individually and get rid of that crappy junction? if its kinda corroded like mine maybe thats whats doing it? i cant test mine now due to the fact that my car is all ripped apart but what do you have to loose by checking this? try it let me know if anything happens.
sr maf...i have another maf but i dont know what car...i know its not the sr tho....heres a picture...Hijacker wrote:It sounds to me like your MAF went bad. Is it a Z MAF or an SR MAF?
i actually disconnected the safc2 i dont want to use it or have anything to do with it...so could i still use the sohc maf without the safc2 ??Hijacker wrote:You can wire it up, but I dn't think an SAFC can compensate enough for it. You would really need to get your ECU reflashed, or a better management system (emanage/EMS) to use it properly.
well my thermostat stays closed....so i changed it to the nismo one...and i put it on and waited about one and a half hours to turn on the car....after warming up i noticed that theres a little bit of water coming out of my exhaust pipe...like spots of water...which means that the head gasket is f-ed but when i did a compression test it was holding at 125 psi on all 4 cyl. so wtf ??Hijacker wrote:The boiling point of water is a touch over 200 degrees F. Our thermostats should open at 170 degrees F. So in short, your thermostat should open up before the water starts to boil
ok i did another compression test and once again all cyl. are at 130 exactly...i held it there for about 30 secs and the gauge didnt drop...im going to have to search on how to do a leak down because to be honest i havent tried...the water in the exhaust im sure was just condinsation because i havent seen it again...the water in the radiator seens to be just fine because it just moves along doesnt burp or anthing just sits there and moves along when needed...the top water hose that goess from the engine to the radiator has the probe...but it always reads 150....and my thermistat wasnt working right so im guess it wasnt telling me the temp of the water that is in the engine and may getting a little hot...thats why i was wondering if i can tap into the coolant temp sensor and get the same reading that the cluster gauge would give except in numbers.....after doing all that im still at a lost on why the car sputters....except it sputters anytime i give it gas and not just when i hit boost after it warms up....at first when its cool i could hit about 5 psi but once its warm thats it....it just doesnt boost or power up....Hijacker wrote:Operating temp should be around 180 degrees. Hence the reason the thermostat opens at 170. Nismos open at 150 I think?
You can replace the temp gauge in your car pretty easily if you want to retain it.
But since you have an autometer gauge, I wuold run that instead as it's accurate. Where is your temp probe exactly at? A cross pipe going to the radiator?
Either or, you should have a power wire going to the probe, then to your gauge, then grounded. Or i might have that backwards. I can't remember which way is best all of a sudden.
As for the water in your exhaust pipe. Are you certain it's coolant? Or is it just condensation? Do any of your cylinders look lower than the others? By a significant amount? You may want to perform another compression check and also do a leakdown test. If you think you have a leaky headgasket (remember they CAN leak and not be blown), check to see if your coolant is bubbling and percolating when the car is running. Your radiator should look like it's burping a lot of air if you have a leak in the headgasket.
my coilpacks tested good on the resistance and the give off good spark when you stick a screw driver and let it bounce back and forth against metal....curious but who did your swap in miami ???hugogos22 wrote:Same crap is happening to me checked spark plugs checked fuel pressure. It only breaks up when i boost it. My wideband show it going lean but my fuel pressure was dead on .Have you tried swapping coilpacks. My motor is out of the car now im almost done with my build will let you know if the coilpacks work for me.
thats koo...so you doing the s14 sr swap or did you do it and it worked good then got messed up ?? btw i imagen you got a wideband right ??hugogos22 wrote:My uncle and my pops have a full shop every thing was done by me.
i changed the maf to the sohc and the problem not only got worst but started to spit out black smoke....not like clouds or constant but you can look at the exhaust pipe and see black smoke....i have 2 sohc mafs and tried them both and both made the car run worst...so i put my maf back on and im pretty sure i can offically rule out the maf sensor...Hijacker wrote:I wouldn't bother tapping the stock temp IMO.
As for the MAF, just wire it up color to color. The only difference between the MAFs are the plug shapes.
Let's see if the MAF fixes your issue, as what you're describing doesn't sound injector related. Injectors tend to totally close up or leak. If they totally close up, then you lose that cylinder, even at idle.
