Engine Compression Question

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Stryker14
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Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 8:03 am
Car: 1993 300zx Convertible
1964 Renault Caravelle Convertible
2002 BMW 530i

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I bought a JDM TT engine that has sat for four years. I have it on an engine stand and I did a compression check by turning crank with a breaker bar.

2 cylinders are 120-130ish. The other four cylinders I can get to register to about 60 on the compression stroke but it leaks out before I can get around again. Thoughts?


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Q451990
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Was this a wet test or dry test?

I know the Q45's engine can loose compression if the cylinder walls get washed down with fuel (e.g. flooded and turned off before the fuel burns off). I'd suspect the rings of an engine that sat for four years could do the same.

Heath

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Ace2cool
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Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
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I'm assuming a dry test. And a compression test doesn't really mean squat until you have the engine warmed up to operating temperature. Sorry to break that to you. A leakdown test is more accurate, but still not 100% on an engine that's sat that long. Now, if it were me, I'd hone the walls and re-ring the pistons just because I already had the engine on a stand, and it's much easier to do outside of the car.

Stryker14
Posts: 19
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 8:03 am
Car: 1993 300zx Convertible
1964 Renault Caravelle Convertible
2002 BMW 530i

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I bought a leak down tester. Three cylinders are at 14-15%. The other three sound like a stuck intake valve. I can feel air coming out of the intake.

Does anyone have a suggestion for freeing these valves? Remember the engine is out and on a stand.

My options are these:

1. Do like Ace said, go ahead and hone cylinders and rering, and do a valve job.
2. Do a valve job, skip the rings and hope test the compression on the other three cylinders once the valve job is done.

The problem with re ringing the cylinder is that if it is all the way apart, it starts the while I'm there syndrome. While I'm there, dip the block, do the bearings, grind the crankshaft, ect. I'm not poor, but come on, if I pull it apart figure another $1000. Crap. Thats on top of the $$$ for wiring harness, New Style injectors, Paint, interior, 120K maintenance, Seals and gaskets, Clutch, other sensors, Boost controller, new front bumper, A/C recharge, misc brackets, silicon hoses, ECU tune.

This all started with a convertible shell with a N/A block that I was just going to put back in after a seal kit and have a fun little car. Found a JDM TT just across the street from me and figured why not? This can get out of control real quick. Like a disease!

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Haha, welcome to the world of being a Z32 owner. It's all about what you want. I'd personally want to know every aspect of my engine, but I'm a perfectionist.


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