I'm looking for information on doing the EGR delete and wondering what you did to ensure that you do not get a CEL after. Also, did you buy a kit and from where or just do it yourself? Thanks.

Why would you want to do that ???????????????????????????

Why?
http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197828.html

plus...100+ for a new egr valve (not including new tubes which are probably totally gunked up)

found a kit for much less
https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine-pa ... -1875.html

mac,I believe you would like to see how the MIL will respond IF this is done ? Before spending $$$$$ on a kit ,or anything, and especially BEFORE doing the work "busting out parts" right. Start by disconnecting whatever wiring from a component - and run car and SEE , get the CODE from "total system removal - electronically" of that componant. Now you go ahead and put something onto the car's harness that "mimicks" the componaent(tricky part -electronics knowledge-get help) whereas usually just a resistor can "simulate" a coil in an EGR solenoid. sometimes solenoids in car have reverse diodes,internally, for Transient Volt Protection (Rev. spike prot.) -so a diode may be needed , etc. You "meter-out" using Ohms scale the component (EGR here) and add these resistors (& other devices,a diode etc. IF needed)ONE by ONE till hopefully YOU HAVE NO MIL lamp warning Satisfied ? Goto your "DELETE" now

Yeah, that's kind of the plan. I just disconnected the vacuum line for now to test and plugged it. Worst case I can't remove the solenoid but the EGR is going to go. I have an exhaust leak in the EGR pipe so I want to put the plug in the manifold and get that junk out of there.

mac, 10-4 good buddy , I remember in the 80's , early "experimentaion" as cars were going electronic more & more we had a bolt-on Carb solenoid "taken out" , actually removed and we had the SOLENOID HANGING OFF the HARNESS to "fake " the ECM. What we tried for power mods and Emiss. delete's back then ! I know your not going to leave the friggin EGR connected & hanging from the firewall ? That would fake it though??

Nowadays not that simple, they generally detect it not working by the lack of pressure change in the intake with it not there. When EGR opens the intake vacuum drops an amount based on how much the EGR has opened. If car has a MAP sensor it will show based on that. Or backpressure change and that not showing because EGR gone will register a code too. Engine may knock too if no knock sensor on it, EGR gone often pings under load, the engine timing may need backing off a bit if possible.

If the car has to tailpipe test at inspection due to being too old for OBDII then the sniffer will likely pick up the extra NOx the EGR being gone allowed to develop in the engine, the cat often does not remove but maybe half that unless cat is brand new.

mac, definately "today" systems being such that data-parameters going "in" and with multiple "actions" going out , all the overlapping and co-mingling a component's actions detected and "picked up as faulty" if alterations not SOUND! It's so interesting to "follow-along" mods-these how-to's and to see these days if can be pulled off anymore .

Ended up getting this kit. Even with 20 bucks shipping it was cheaper.

http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/ind/ ... l-kit.html

It was super hard to get the EGR out. There is no space to get anything on the nut to loosen the tube going to the exhaust manifold. It's about 24mm but you can't get a normal 24mm wrench or crescent wrench on it. I had to cut the pipe with a dremmel. Also, while taking it out I broke the plastic coupler for the heater hose line. It was old and had already broken off some inside the driver side line that I didn't bust while taking it out.

The driver side EGR tube had to be cut also because of the size of the EGR end and I needed it out my way. I was able to get that with a reciprocating saw. The passenger side tube was pretty easy. When working on the EGR I put a big cardboard box on the engine so I could lay on it. That helped a lot.

Also, if you have the EGR temp sensor like I did you need a 68k Ohm resistor.

I don't know what I would have done if I wanted to replace the EGR. I guess maybe buy a 24mm wrench and cut it in half to try and fit it in there. I was kind of lucky that my exhaust manifold bolt had come loose since that was one less thing to do. It's nice to have that exhaust leak plugged now.

mac, WOW -SIMPLE ,SIMPLE kit Veeeeerrrrrry tough job ,eh ?

It would be harder to replace it than remove it...and more expensive.

If you have the transmission off or the engine out...I probably wouldn't put it back in with one on there...or without a new one, if you absolutely want to have it. The EGR tubes to the intake were pretty heavily gunked up also. It runs much better now. I think my EGR temp sensor was going bad also as it would sometimes throw a code P0400 and a knock sensor P0325 with it every time, which was interesting. It hasn't thrown either since the resistor was put in place of the EGR temp sensor.

I have done it on my J30 and soldered the resistor inline and taped it all up to make it one with the harness.

swimshark wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:15 pm

I have done it on my J30 and soldered the resistor inline and taped it all up to make it one with the harness.

Did you do your's with the engine in or out of the car? I am working on a '93 and I'm not sure what it has at this point compared to your '94, so I'm in the "thinking about it" stage right now.

Thanks!