EGR Bypass question

[Rickjames8]

Hello,

So I've finally got my Z running well. I have spent about 40-50 hours working on this car since I bought it, vs 2-3 hours actually driving it. This weekend I cleaned the CAS, and put some dielectric grease on all the connectors and it finally runs ok.

Then the CEL came on. It's a 32 - EGR issues.

I would like to bypass the EGR, but I don't really want to pull the engine or do a plenum pull. To be honest, I've just become so dissapointed with this car. It feels like the list of things will never end, and the next time I have a weekend free to do a job like that is sometime late April.

In the bypass instructions I've read which involve leaving the pieces in the car, they say to remove the tubes going in to the plenum, block them off with the plates, then cut the remaining tubes off as far back as you can, and cap the remainder with a 5/8" cap. I'm doing this on a NA, I understand the TT's can blow those caps off. Now, I can clearly see these EGR tubes on both sides and it looks like I could get to them. It would stand to reason that cutting a 1" section out of each tube (this can be done without a plenum pull) and putting 5/8" caps on both sides would achieve the same thing (both ends are blocked), but without the plenum coming off.

Does this sound like it could work?

-Rick

[mikeym]

Rick -

Sounds to me like it would work - problem is depending on what state you are in - it won't pass visual inspection for sure. Easy to see its hacked and capped. At least removed it stands a chance as it looks like it was never there

The plenum pull isn't really all that involved... I did it in like 2 hours the first time - that was marking everything... is your coolant lines to the plenum deleted yet? might as well do that while you are in there...

~mikeym

[evildky]

The egr tubes are held into the bottom of the plenum with one bolt, it's part fo the plenum removal to disconnect them. If you put the egr tubes that single bolt will release the rest fo the tube from the plenum then a simple plate will cover. that being said, if you have an egr code it likely has nothing to do with the egr valve but the vac solenoid that controls it, might want to have a look at the vac lines and electrical connector before you go through all this trouble.

I too was disappointed with the Z32 and generally recommend a Z31 or Z33 for those considering one. It's not really that the cars are problem attic it's that they are difficult and expensive to service. They do have more of a tendency for injectors to die than any other car on the planet I suspect de to the packaging of these side feed injectors otherwise they are pretty dependable for a 20+ year old car, assuming that the expensive, difficult time consuming maintenance gets done. Most people simply react to the issues and put little thought into maintenance.

[Rickjames8]

Thanks both of you for the feedback. I might just try the plenum pull. I live in VA where there are no emissions on cars that are over 25 years old, so we're more or less free to do what we like - I thought that was in my profile, but it looks like it's not, so I'll add it.

Another issue I am running in to is that if I delete or bypass the system, I need to fool the car in to not giving me a code 32. I have found the solution to avoiding code 35 with a 68k ohm resistor, but can't find what people do about the code 32.

[evildky]

The ger code comes from the solenoid that controls the vacuum that operates the egr valve not the valve itself. The solenoid is located on the passenger side inner fender next to the battery (just follow the vac lines), you might want to check and see if it's as simple as a bad connection.