Dropping intake temps?

[Largekid]

Alrighty,

I went to the track last night and ran horribly, lol. I KNOW I need a tune, and will be getting one soon enough, but I've also noticed that my charge pipes and IC->throttle body pipes are pretty warm most of the time. I have planned on getting my hot side of my turbo, and my downpipe all jethot coated. That should help some w/ engine bay temps. It seems like i'm going to need something else to get this bad boy to cool down some. Anyone running any kind of intake cooler system? Like a nitrogen spray setup on the IC or anything? What could be some options for me to look into?

Ohh and btw I ran a 12.77@113 w/ a 2.0 60' on 22lbs.

[Shocker]

Get tuned.

The plenum and IC pipes will be hott. (even to hot to touch) That doesn't necessarily mean that the temps are going to be warm as well. Intake temp gauge/sensor is the only way to know.

85 degree F day. Mine were 29-30 degrees C at the starting line then 32-33 degrees at the 1/4. Then slowly cooled back down to were they started. Keep in mind I couldn't touch my plenum w/o getting burned for long...

[Largekid]

even 33deg C after the run isn't to much more than ambient temps though. For some reason I think the PFC will read intake temps...i just never looked at them, lol. If not i'll get a gauge and check them out...but I'm pretty sure that they are pretty hot. Yesterday was about 85*F outside and I would assume that my temps were close to 100* after the pulls. And only getting hotter, lol. Tune is frontrunner w/ my downpipe exhaust leak a close 2nd. I'm not melting anything...but it is damn hot in there for sure!

[240z4u]

Do you have a forward facing manifold? If not, insulate the pipe that runs behind your radiator somehow. Mine acted like a heat sink big time.

Jet-hot coated exhaust manifold made a world of difference, moreso than a downpipe would. I can set you up with my old manifold cheap if you wanna send one out and not have down time.

Power FC won't log AIT. However, if you have datalogit I am sure you could figure out how to rig up GM air temp sensors with a 5v feed to read the air temperature. Sounds like a good idea, maybe Ill try it.

Evan

[Largekid]

Do you have a forward facing manifold? If not, insulate the pipe that runs behind your radiator somehow. Mine acted like a heat sink big time.

Jet-hot coated exhaust manifold made a world of difference, moreso than a downpipe would. I can set you up with my old manifold cheap if you wanna send one out and not have down time.

Power FC won't log AIT. However, if you have datalogit I am sure you could figure out how to rig up GM air temp sensors with a 5v feed to read the air temperature. Sounds like a good idea, maybe Ill try it.

Evan

yea, wasn't sure about the PFC...i'll just rig something up w/ the datalogit or something to see.

What kind of manifold is it? I have a T4 flange on mine now...i can take it off and have it all coated fairly easily. I have a gredy intake mani w/ a FMIC, so no heat soak from there...just under the hood, lol.

[raremotive]

I have heard of ceramic coating the intake manifold in hopes to disperse the heat.. allowing intake tempatures to be lower...(mostly bottem of the intake on V varenant of engines).. but it wouldn't hurt to coat the whole intake...

Just throwing it up...as FYI

[240z4u]

Nice, I wasn't sure if you were running a stock manifold. thats what I have.

I really think you should get it coated, it made a very big difference in my underhood temperatures..

Evan

You should be able to find a curve for the GM AIT sensor somewhere on the net and use 5v to log it. Lemme know if you bother to do it, I am curious to do this as well.

[WhatsADSM]

IATs are thermistors.

I.e. they change resistance with temperature.

So to log it and make sense of it will take some knowhow.

Can't just feed it with 5v and expect to get any meaningful data from it.

1) Buy the GM IAT2) Either find the temp vs. resistance characterization. OR just measure it yourself by sticking it in different temperature environments and measuring the resistance.3) Next you will need a solid +5V source and will need to look at the characterization curve and choose a good bias resistor to get the resolution you want through your specific temp range.4) Mathematically recharacterize the Voltage out (with your now bias resistor) versus temperature... so that in your logs you know what voltage corresponds to what temp.

[Cjmartz2k]

RB20 and RB26 PFC's will read IAT, RB25 won't, because for some reason Nissan saw fit not to give the RB25 a sensor from the factory, unlike the other RB's.

[240z4u]

IATs are thermistors.

I.e. they change resistance with temperature.

So to log it and make sense of it will take some knowhow.

Can't just feed it with 5v and expect to get any meaningful data from it.

1) Buy the GM IAT2) Either find the temp vs. resistance characterization. OR just measure it yourself by sticking it in different temperature environments and measuring the resistance.3) Next you will need a solid +5V source and will need to look at the characterization curve and choose a good bias resistor to get the resolution you want through your specific temp range.4) Mathematically recharacterize the Voltage out (with your now bias resistor) versus temperature... so that in your logs you know what voltage corresponds to what temp.

After reading, I stand corrected. PLX does make a unit that you can wire right into your power FC 0-5v input if you are so inclined.

Decent thread here on honda tech;

http://www.honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

Evan

[Carl H]

water injection.

[eh?]

Spend the cash on a tune, you're not running 60 psi and in need of extra cooling..

Just make sure you're not detonating and egt is inline

[Largekid]

Spend the cash on a tune, you're not running 60 psi and in need of extra cooling..

Just make sure you're not detonating and egt is inline

i'm not detonating...i know that.

I know the car needs a tune, badly...but thats not going to drop my intake temps...I guarantee that they are hotter than it seems like. I will get it tuned shortly, and then i'll install a intake temp gauge, and we will go from there i guess.

[eh?]

i'm not detonating...i know that.

I know the car needs a tune, badly...but thats not going to drop my intake temps...I guarantee that they are hotter than it seems like. I will get it tuned shortly, and then i'll install a intake temp gauge, and we will go from there i guess.

Maybe- maybe not, cooler egt's = cooler exhaust manifold=cooler engine bay temps.

But the reason for wanting cooler charge pipe temps is for cooler cylinder head temps right? That's where a tune would help.

[Largekid]

yes, cooler egts=cooler engine bay temps. The tune could drop them a few degrees i'm sure. I know that the cooler pipe temps will be better for airflow entering the head, and for the tune in general...I was more worried about being able to run my car more aggressivly at the track. I was having to wait a hr inbetween runs before I could run again...it was just getting to hot. I dropped .8 and 3mph off while trying to run before it was cool again. I understand that I wont be able to run the car every 5 min at the track, but i'd like to be able to get in runs every 30-45 w/o any issues, ya know?

[HxC_Nismo]

go with meth injection and also get a set of drag radials and or slicks so you can get those 60' down cause i run 12.2 @113 with a 1.8 60ft and im still spinnin off the line and thats with stock turbos @ 15psi

[Largekid]

go with meth injection and also get a set of drag radials and or slicks so you can get those 60' down cause i run 12.2 @113 with a 1.8 60ft and im still spinnin off the line and thats with stock turbos @ 15psi

lol, thats w/ a 275/40/17 MT DR @ 20psi. Because of the size of my turbo, i'm trying to leave in boost to prevent as much lag as I can. Its either bog or spin...launching at 4500. I'll look into meth inj...just have been putting it off cause I have no dire need for it yet...but it seems like that may be my best option.

[240z4u]

I have an alky-control kit on my car.

Evan